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Need Help Connecting Honeywell Wifi Thermostat to VR800 gas Valve ICG Furnace

Need Help Connecting Honeywell Wifi Thermostat to VR800 gas Valve ICG Furnace


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Old 04-25-15, 09:28 PM
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Need Help Connecting Honeywell Wifi Thermostat to VR800 gas Valve ICG Furnace

I am facing problems connecting my new Honeywell WiFi thermostat RTH9580 with my ICG Furnace which has Honeywell VR800 gas valve. My old Thermostat was White Rodgers analogue with two wires (white and black) connected to the Gas Valve as shown in the diagram. The Greeen and Red wires were connected to G and R in Furnace. The orange wire which was connected to Y in White Rodgers thermostat was connected to White wire coming from AC unit.

I am attaching the previous wiring diagram and thermostat connections alongwith.
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When I bought the new wifi thermostat, I called an electrician to get it installed . The electrician connected the black wire from thermostat to the C-terminal and told me that I don't need to connect it to the Gas valve in furnace as the white wire was already connceted to the Furnace Gas Valve. The Red wire was connected to R, Green in G, Orange in Y and White in W2/Aux in wifi theromostat. The picture of recent wire connecion at furnace side is attached alongwith.
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Now, after I started the new wifi thermostat, the heat was not coming on.
I spent many hours to figure out what is the problem but could not resolve the issue.
Ultimately, I had no choice but to disconnect the new one and reinstall the old one with previous wire connection and the heating was working fine.

I would highly appreciate if someone can help me out with this issue.
 
  #2  
Old 04-25-15, 10:16 PM
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Do you have any extra wires to use for the C terminal?

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Old = new
4 = RH
R = Rc
G = G
W = W
Y = Y

remove the Rc-R jumper
 
  #3  
Old 04-25-15, 10:36 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I removed your second thread on the same topic. Use this thread for all questions.

No spares.... he's only got a five wire cable there. (unless one is cut short)

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  #4  
Old 04-26-15, 05:39 AM
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Do you have a Multi meter?if so read between Red and Black at the Tstat you should get 24 VAC, if so connect Red to RH and Black to C ,orange to Y1 ,green to G ,white to W1.
You will need to program the Tstat for the system you have,nice choice for Tstat I have several.
Geo
 
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Old 04-26-15, 08:52 AM
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Thanks Geo, PJMax and Houston for replying.

I do not have any extra wire. I will get a multimeter today and check the wires as suggested by Geo. Also, I would try connecting Y to Y1. But will that really make any difference? When the electrician installed the thermostat, the R and C was giving 24V reading. Please advise me if the connections at the furnace side gas valve are correct?

Sifarsen
 
  #6  
Old 04-26-15, 08:58 AM
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The old stat was wired as a 2 transformer system but the furnace does not appear to be a millivolt or 2 transformer system.

It is possible that you can use black for common but I suspect that you would need to move a couple of wires around at the furnace.

If we could see the control wire connections between the valve TH-TR and the transformer as well as the low voltage connections from the stat to the furnace (green red and black) it would help.

It would be much easier for you to connect the new stat if you had a 6th conductor than to rewire the furnace.
 
  #7  
Old 04-26-15, 09:28 AM
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The pictures of wire connection at furnace side with the old thermostat are attached.Name:  IMG_5058.jpg
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  #8  
Old 04-26-15, 09:35 AM
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Your pictures are very helpful and we should have you going soon. Can you take one more closeup picture of the fan center shown below. I need to see the wiring terminal.

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  #9  
Old 04-26-15, 09:38 AM
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Is there a wiring diagram inside of the blower panel?
 
  #10  
Old 04-26-15, 09:42 AM
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There should be a C on that terminal strip...

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  #11  
Old 04-26-15, 01:08 PM
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Some more pics near the fan centreName:  IMG_5071.jpg
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  #12  
Old 04-26-15, 03:36 PM
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Right now you have two transformers controlling your system. You have the black one on the left supplying power to the furnace and the internal transformer inside the fan center. If the system remains like that then you will need a sixth wire to the transformer.

We could tell you how to move the furnace controls to the fan center but the wattage capability of the fan center is unknown at this time.

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Old 04-26-15, 04:36 PM
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I will try to find the wattage of each of the transformer. In that case, do I still need a sixth wire to be connected to the wifi thermostat?
 
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Old 04-26-15, 08:56 PM
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I went back and looked at your original furnace schematic. The furnace transformer is plugged into a control unit (hi limit) which must remain intact.

You have two choices here...... add a sixth wire for the common or use a relay to control the furnace. It could be any type of 24vac relay.

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90-290 (Amazon)
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  #15  
Old 04-27-15, 02:32 PM
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Thanks Pete, how much this relay will cost and how would I connect it to the gas valve. Please help me out, I have very limited knowledge in this regard.
 
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Old 04-27-15, 07:04 PM
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You can pickup a 24VAC single pole normally open relay from many places. Amazon online is one place. You can search the part numbers I left and you'll find a bunch of places. You can probably pick one up at a local supply house if you know of one.


To the wiring.....

Red---> Rh/Rc.... jumper needed at stat. (no change at furnace)
Green---> G (no change at furnace)
Orange---> Y (no change at furnace)
Black---> C (at furnace move to C terminal on fan center)
White---> W2/aux (one of coil terminals on relay)

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You may get a different relay. We'll help you wire any 24vac relay you get. There are 4-5 different types and they will all work for you.
 
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Old 04-27-15, 07:57 PM
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I would get the bigger, stronger, double pole double throw relay with a 24 VAC coil.
White-Rodgers 90-340 Switching Relay, 24V - Electrical Outlet Switches - Amazon.com

I have had such bad luck with those little spst relays that I removed all of them from the shelves in my van.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 03:48 AM
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Thanks Pete and Houston for your continuous help.
Houston, please let me know the wiring details for the relay you mentioned. I can see it has more terminals than the one Pete suggested.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 04:54 AM
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The terminals are numbered 1,2,3,4,5,6 and the remaining terminals are the coil.

Connect relay 1 and 3 to the old 4 and W locations at the furnace.

Move stat black to C at the furnace.

Connect the coil of the new relay to stat W and furnace C.

Connect black to C on the new stat.

I can post a pic tonight.
 
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Old 04-29-15, 01:44 PM
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Thanks Houston for the reply. I have placed the order for the 90-340 relay. Please provide the sketch so that I can do the wiring as suggested by you. I really appreciate your help, guys.
 
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Old 04-29-15, 09:47 PM
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The furnace C terminal will feed the isolation relay, the stat, and the AC condenser.

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Old 04-30-15, 03:03 AM
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Thanks again, Houston, for the sketch. It might take about a week or so, for the shipment to arrive. I will let you know when I am done connecting the relay.
 
  #23  
Old 05-05-15, 11:08 AM
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I would add a blade type 3 amp automotive fuse between furnace R and stat R.

A couple of insulated squeeze on spade connectors will work,

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but Radio Shack carries fuse holders for a a low price.
 

Last edited by Houston204; 05-05-15 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 05-23-15, 07:48 AM
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Thanks Guys for all your help. I received the relay and installed it as Houston instructed. Everything works well, but when I start the heating I get a smell of hot metal. This smell was not there when I was using the old thermostat. Please advise me if I need to do any changes in the wiring connections of the relay switch. Thanks
 
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Old 05-24-15, 06:43 AM
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Is this smell coming from the new relay or is it coming out of your registers?
 
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Old 05-24-15, 06:33 PM
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The smell is coming out of the vents whenever I turn on the heating. The smell does not come when the fan is on without the heating. One more thing I must tell you , I started the AC before checking the heating, the AC was working fine. Please advise.
 
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Old 05-24-15, 08:20 PM
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That's pretty strange. I don't think it would be a wiring issue or the fuse that Houston mentioned would pop.

I do know that after a furnace hasn't run for many months that when it's restarted a burning smell is not uncommon until all the dust is burned off the heat exchanger.
 
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Old 05-25-15, 02:32 PM
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You may be right, but it seems like the AC coil needs to be cleaned as I can see the tube getting freezed at the AC unit end. Is there a way I can check the heating coil?
 
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Old 05-25-15, 03:39 PM
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If your furnace has a metal vent pipe it will not have a coil since it will not have a secondary heat exchanger.

The cooling coil and the blower wheel should be inspected.



Many evaporator coils have a removable panel to allow you to see the coil.



The outlet side of the coil can still appear clean when the inlet side is dirty.
This coil was similar to a drier filter. The lint and dog fur peeled off.
 
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Old 05-25-15, 04:05 PM
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I'm a little confused..... you previously said the A/C was working fine. So as it turns out the A/C is not working properly.

Low air flow can cause a burning smell in heat mode.
 
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Old 05-27-15, 05:05 PM
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AC was working good when I checked it after installing the relay switch. But now, since it's pretty hot here, I tried to run the AC for longer hours, but there is very little cooling (almost no cooling at all) with less air flow from the vents. When I run the Fan only (without AC), the air flow is much better. I will try to take a picture of the evaporator coil and the heat sink (if I manage to open the cover properly). Thanks again guys for all the help you provided.
 
 

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