Blinking Honeywell RTH9580WF Confusion

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Old 07-19-16, 06:10 PM
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Blinking Honeywell RTH9580WF Confusion

Sorry I dont have any pics, my house is 3 hours away but I can remember most of the details. I have a 3 zone hot water baseboard heating system with a 2 wire system, no cooling. My zone controller is a Taco sr503-4 exp and Im trying to connect the Honeywell rth9580wf to it. I ran new 18/5 wire from the Taco to the thermostat. The original wires had black from the rh to one T screw and the yellow wire from the w to the other T screw. When I ran the new wires I changed the colors to white to white and red to the rh. The blue I ran from the 24v/com screw to the c slot on the back of thermostat plate. Now the thermostat kicks the heat on when I put the face on the thermostat and the screen blinks Honeywell off and on. I read so many threads and diff web sites that im confused now. I went out and purchased a 24v transformer due to Honeywell and Taco saying that I do not have a common install and need a pro installer. Taco said that their boards don't support always on thermostat or the new wifi thermostats. I had this thermostat installed in my last home and it worked perfectly.Any help?
 
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Old 07-19-16, 06:24 PM
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Do you know how old the Taco controller is ?
You said it has TT terminals for the stat...... correct ?
If you Goggle the model and then look at the images..... can you pick out the exact one you have ?

There are so many variations. The mfg may not support a powered stat but it may be able to be connected anyway.

If you had the 24vac extra connections and one was labeled common then more that likely you have to reverse the two TT wires. It does make a difference.
 
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Old 07-19-16, 06:40 PM
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No sorry dont know exactly how old it is , we just purchased the home. Yes the terminals to connect the thermostat are TT. This is the only pic I have from my phone.
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This pic is with the the old wires.
 
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Old 07-19-16, 07:23 PM
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I had a marked diagram but can't find it. The following diagram should be yours. Where I outlined the 24vac power...... is yours marked 24v and common ? Do you have a meter ?

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Old 07-20-16, 03:43 AM
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Yes I have a meter and that is where I connected the c wire to. Are the 2 24v/com screws the same meaning I can attach either top or bottom? Maybe I do have to switch the 2 TT wires like replied earlier but I am afraid of shorting out something on the boiler, either the taco board or a zone valve.
 
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Old 07-20-16, 01:23 PM
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Best bet for you is to give Taco tech support a call,they are very helpful,


Talk to Taco
Taco, Inc.
1160 Cranston St.
Cranston, RI 02920
Phone: (401) 942-8000
FAX: (401) 942-2360
E-Mail: Customer Service
 
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Old 07-20-16, 01:28 PM
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I did call them and they said I could place a resistor between the white and the c wire for it to work but they don't support the always on WiFi thermostats (nest, Honeywell etc). Never did I come accross in my reading a resistor.
 
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Old 07-20-16, 05:52 PM
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If you have Red on RH and White on W and the blue is connected to one of the 24 VAC terminals,take your meter and read between RH and the Blue wire ,you should have 24 VAC if not reverse the blue wire on the terminal block and remeasure.
Did Taco say what the purpose of the resistor was?
 
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Old 07-20-16, 06:07 PM
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No he was not clear on what really to do, was sort of like not wanting to say without getting in trouble. I have a Honeywell external transformer that I can use if need be. These are the diagram he emailed me too. Also say if I want to change my other 2 thermostats to use an external transformer, can they all be run off the 1 or do I have to buy each thermostat a transformer?

Current Stealing Stats Drop problem.pdf
 
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Old 07-20-16, 06:32 PM
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A standard 40 VA transformer would be more than enough,I sent their tech support an email to see what kind of info they send me,I can not see the need for the resistor.
 
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Old 07-20-16, 06:57 PM
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You don't have a current stealing stat issue. The resistor will not help.
The companies are afraid to help due to the liability issues if you burn something up.

Using the above diagram.....
1) Remove the stat wires from the stat 1 position or whichever position you're using.
2) Short the two TT terminals together.
3) Using a voltmeter set to AC volts..... measure from the shorted TT terminals to one then the other 24VAC power terminals. When checking.... one terminal should show 24vac and one should show 0v.
4) Which ever terminal shows you 24vac is the common/C terminal. Mark it.
5) The other terminal gets labeled R.
6) Remove the TT jumper.
7) Measure from common/C to either TT terminal. The one that shows 24vac gets labeled R.
8) The other terminal gets labeled W.

That's it.
If it's not clear.... ask.
Be so kind as to tell me what you find on which terminals so I can remark my diagram making this an easier problem to help with in the future.
 
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Old 07-21-16, 08:06 AM
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Gotcha. I'm gonna be at the house Friday and will try it that way and report back on what happens.
 
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Old 07-23-16, 06:23 AM
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Ok thanks for everyone's help on this. The top screw the 24v gives no power but the bottom com screw works and when I looked at the wiring next to the trouble thermostat they were white then red. Mine was originally installed backwards. So I switched the wires and everything works.. Once again big thanks to all who helped.
 
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Old 07-23-16, 06:29 AM
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Thanks for letting us know you got it working,put yourself in for a raise!
 
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Old 07-23-16, 09:40 AM
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Yes.... TT terminals reversed. That was my first response to you.
 
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Old 07-23-16, 07:56 PM
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Just out of curiosity cause I'm going to change 2 more thermostats, how many thermostats can the com screw run? I have the transformer if it can't power the 3.
 
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Old 07-23-16, 08:04 PM
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I'm not sure if I can answer that. I don't know how big the transformer is in that unit.

What you could do is to measure the 24vac power terminals with NO wifi stats connected. Connect one at a time and see what it does to the 24vac. Let me know.
 
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