Help with THM5320r and Taco zone valve.

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Old 01-21-17, 02:09 PM
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Help with THM5320r and Taco zone valve.

Hi All hope someone can help. I have a hot water heating system (broiler) the system has 4 zones 1 hot water and the other 3 are heat to different rooms/ floors. They all use Taco zone valves and are controlled through an Argo zone control. Now I want to control one heating zone by using the Honeywell THM5320 EMI system with the 6320 wireless thermostat that came with it. (Doing this so I can change location of the thermostat without rerunning wires)
Install seemed pretty straight forward (so I thought) ok I ran a wire from my 24v transformer to the C on the EMI unit. Then the wires that use to go to the wired thermostat I connect Red to R and white to W O/B . Turned system back on. EMI unit has power. I connected the thermostat to the EMI unit (connect button) Then I configured the thermostat per booklet for my system. Then I turned on thermostat hand raised temperature so heat will kick on. When that happen, the heat light came on then the unit turned off and reset itself. The light on the Argo zone control for that zone also lights up (like it's working) then clicks back off Anyone know why? Is this because it is going through the Argo zone control?Should I wire this directly to the Taco zone valve and not go through the Argo zone control? If so where do I connect the green wire? Coming off the zone valve is Red,white green. I am at a loss. See pic if they show up. Zone 3 in picture is the one I am connecting. 2 wires on top R W are in from thermostat ( connected to EMI as above. 3 bottom wires R W G go to Taco zone valve.
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Old 01-21-17, 06:24 PM
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I ran a wire from my 24v transformer to the C on the EMI unit. Then the wires that use to go to the wired thermostat I connect Red to R and white to W O/B .
Here's your problem.

How did you know which side of the transformer was C ?
Are you sure the red is actually R and the white is actually W ?

The controller is labeled T T so red and white are connected arbitrarily.
You can't mess with the R/G/W side of the controller.

You're going to need a meter to make some tests.

This is a representative diagram. I'll not use any colors. I'll tell you how to label the transformer and controller. Use a voltmeter set to read 24VAC.

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Remove the red and white wires from the T T terminals on the zone you are using.
Install a short across the T T terminals.
Put one lead of your meter on the T T terminals.
Touch the other lead to A or B on the transformer. The terminal that shows 24vac is C.
Label that transformer terminal as C.
Remove the T T jumper.
Put one meter lead on the transformer C terminal.
Touch one T terminal and then the other. The T terminal that shows 24vac gets labeled R.
The other terminal is W.
Know you know your R, W and C connections at your heating end are correct.
 
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Old 01-22-17, 01:02 PM
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Thanks Pete, I will get my meter tomorrow and check the readings. never occurred to me that the red and white could be wrong. I figured they were correct since thats how it was connected to the original thermostat and never disconnected those two wires, I just cut them and plugged into the EMI. I will let you know how it works out. Steve
 
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Old 01-23-17, 10:13 AM
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Pete. you were correct the C was getting power but not the 24v common that was on B in your drawing. and also the 2 T connections were also wrong. the white and red needed to be swapped. all working now. thank you so much.
 
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Old 01-23-17, 10:58 AM
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Great news. Thanks for letting me know the outcome.
 
 

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