24V hardwired transformer off Argo controller
#1
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24V hardwired transformer off Argo controller
Hi, this might be my first post to this site that I've lurked in for years.
I have two Ecobee4 smart thermostats but only 2 wires at each location, so I got 2 Fast Stat Common Makers to get that required 3rd wire, hooked up the first at the 2-zone Argo relay/controller and the Ecobee powered on, and I made it through all setup including Wi-Fi, but it would subsequently reboot too many times (usually when I tried to raise its temperature slider).
Fast Stat support responded that I also needed a separate 24V transformer, and that the existing one in the Argo was inadequate. So I've ordered one like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Packard-...2420/203565056
I'm trying to figure out how to mount the transformer. There's no space left in the Argo controller. Is the transformer required to be covered in a metal box ? I do have space on the wall where the Argo and main electrical switch to the boiler already are.
Should I bother to get a box big enough to hold the Fast Stats too, or is that overkill?
And if its a metal box for the transformer, do I need metal sheathing to run romex between it and whichever other box I decide to tap 110v from?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as I am just winging it right now.
I have two Ecobee4 smart thermostats but only 2 wires at each location, so I got 2 Fast Stat Common Makers to get that required 3rd wire, hooked up the first at the 2-zone Argo relay/controller and the Ecobee powered on, and I made it through all setup including Wi-Fi, but it would subsequently reboot too many times (usually when I tried to raise its temperature slider).
Fast Stat support responded that I also needed a separate 24V transformer, and that the existing one in the Argo was inadequate. So I've ordered one like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Packard-...2420/203565056
I'm trying to figure out how to mount the transformer. There's no space left in the Argo controller. Is the transformer required to be covered in a metal box ? I do have space on the wall where the Argo and main electrical switch to the boiler already are.
Should I bother to get a box big enough to hold the Fast Stats too, or is that overkill?
And if its a metal box for the transformer, do I need metal sheathing to run romex between it and whichever other box I decide to tap 110v from?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as I am just winging it right now.
#2
While I wold get a NEMA1 6x6x4 junction box and run a piece of MC cable to get power making sure to use anti-short bushings and 3/8” saddle connectors....
Getting an Elk TRG2440 transformer and plugging it into the wall, running 2 wires from the new transformer to RC and C on the stat would be much easier.
RA832A which 24v is positive?
Getting an Elk TRG2440 transformer and plugging it into the wall, running 2 wires from the new transformer to RC and C on the stat would be much easier.
RA832A which 24v is positive?
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install 110v outlet in boiler room
Never occurred to me to use plug-in transformer since there's no AC outlet in my boiler room. But since I have to install a metal box anyway, I like your idea of an outlet.
The Fast Stat Common Maker says it's "2 AMPS" . I have 2 of them (2 separate thermostat zones). Would a single Elk plug-in transformer handle both Fast Stats ?
The Fast Stat Common Maker says it's "2 AMPS" . I have 2 of them (2 separate thermostat zones). Would a single Elk plug-in transformer handle both Fast Stats ?
#4
The Fast Stat can handle 2 amp loads. That is the switch rating. It doesn't require 2 amps to run it. The power needed is basically for the thermostat itself. A 24vac 40va transformer will run both fine.
The stats use about 11va each and the Fast stat may use 4-5va.
Combined would be somewhere around 32va.
The stats use about 11va each and the Fast stat may use 4-5va.
Combined would be somewhere around 32va.
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Ok to tap boiler kill switch for new outlet ?
My latest plan is to install an outlet in the boiler room, where the boiler kill switch and Argo controller box (middle of photo) already are on the wall.
The switch is probably 5.5 feet above ground.
I've installed other outlets in the basement by tapping an existing 110v connection. Should it be okay for me to tap the boiler kill switch?
I guess I should use a GFCI outlet since there are water pipes in the vicinity , including an expansion tank around the same height (just out of view in the photo).
I would plug an Elk transformer into this outlet. Thanks again!
The switch is probably 5.5 feet above ground.
I've installed other outlets in the basement by tapping an existing 110v connection. Should it be okay for me to tap the boiler kill switch?
I guess I should use a GFCI outlet since there are water pipes in the vicinity , including an expansion tank around the same height (just out of view in the photo).
I would plug an Elk transformer into this outlet. Thanks again!
#6
Yes, after you find the breaker feeding that switch and remove power it is fine to tap power from it for your new receptacle.
Last edited by Houston204; 05-31-18 at 09:48 AM.
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installed outlet
Outlet is installed. Just waiting for Elk transformer to arrive.
The advice here has very helpful and reassuring. For example, I would not have known about anti-short bushings. I got a 6 foot whip from Lowes, and cut it to size. Reused an old (but modern) GFCI outlet I saved during kitchen remodeling. GFCI tester passed.
The advice here has very helpful and reassuring. For example, I would not have known about anti-short bushings. I got a 6 foot whip from Lowes, and cut it to size. Reused an old (but modern) GFCI outlet I saved during kitchen remodeling. GFCI tester passed.