Replacing Honeywell trol-a-temp controller with HZ322


  #1  
Old 09-20-18, 10:50 AM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Replacing Honeywell trol-a-temp controller with HZ322

Seems like this should be easy, but I'm out of my element... I replaced my old single-stage geothermal unit with a 2-stage unit so need to replace my also old trol-a-temp controller with a controller that supports 2-stage, so I got an HZ322.

The thermostat wiring nomenclature on the two controllers is different, the trol-a-temp has T4-T8 connections plus a "changeover control" block with O1, G1, B1, and E1, where the HZ322 has R, C, W1/E, W2, Y1, Y2, G, O/B, and L. The thermostats (haven't replaced them), are old honeywell q674xxxxx units so also have "standard" wiring. They aren't exactly the same model, the 2nd zone t-stat doesn't have heat/cool controls, just the W, Y, R, B wires.

Does the following look right?

Main thermostat

Hz322 t-stat
R R
C
W1/E ? (currently E looks to be jumpered to Y...I do not have aux heat)
W2 W2
Y1 Y
Y2
G G
O/B O and B (jumpered?)
L

I'm assuming the 2nd zone thermostat is more simple, but I could be wrong...there's a 2nd black wire coming out of the wall for the main thermostat and I'm puzzled as to where that's coming from...might it be from the 2nd zone t-stat?

R R
W2 W2
Y1 Y
O/B O
 
  #2  
Old 09-20-18, 11:15 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,816
Received 3,922 Upvotes on 3,518 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

Pictures of the old system - wired in place are very helpful. Both controller and thermostats.
How-to-insert-pictures

The old zone controller required stat 1 to set the heating and cooling modes.
Stat 2 just controlled temperatures.
 
  #3  
Old 09-20-18, 01:50 PM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Perfect, I've got those right here...

old controller Name:  20180916_161404.jpg
Views: 1993
Size:  34.8 KB
The glare hides the T4-T8 labels.

t-stat Name:  20180920_123427.jpg
Views: 1681
Size:  76.4 KB

hz322 Name:  20180916_161512.jpg
Views: 1649
Size:  85.2 KB

hz322 doc Name:  20180920_164344.jpg
Views: 1647
Size:  49.5 KB
 

Last edited by varover; 09-20-18 at 02:38 PM.
  #4  
Old 09-20-18, 09:29 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,521
Received 94 Upvotes on 87 Posts
  #5  
Old 09-20-18, 10:19 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,521
Received 94 Upvotes on 87 Posts
This post may also be of assistance...

Ritetemp and Trol – a- Temp wiring Question

Do you have any information on your dampers?
 
  #6  
Old 09-21-18, 08:13 AM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Both of these are a big help. I also have the mabs II. Your post gave me the incentive to try to google up the manual for it again to confirm wth the T7 and T8 are for and this time I found it. I found a diagram there for a Y594R t-stat that I guess is a match for mine...at least the wiring matches. That combined with the Hz322 doc gets me so close..I think something like:

HZ..............................t-stat
R................................R
C (open)
W1/E.........................E
W2 (jump to W1)
Y1..............................Y
Y2.............................(open?)

G...............................G
O/B...........................O or B?
L................................?

Does that look right? Y2 might be the biggest puzzle...that and interpreting the O or B annotation. Not sure what L is.
 
Attached Images    
  #7  
Old 09-21-18, 08:16 AM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Oh, and atm my dampers are the old-school honeywell MSTN dampers that lasted about a year after I replaced them the first time. I have them disconnected and I'll upgrade them to newer versions once I get this sorted out.
 

Last edited by varover; 09-21-18 at 08:38 AM.
  #8  
Old 09-21-18, 08:23 AM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Upon reflection...that just doesn't look right wrt W2 being open on the t-stat...it's sure not open on the current t-stat.
 
  #9  
Old 09-21-18, 02:01 PM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Given that I have a 2-stage unit, maybe I should stop trying to hang on to the old t-stat and upgrade to one of the ones recommended, like the TH5220D. Not sure if that would simplify things or not.
 
Attached Images  
  #10  
Old 09-22-18, 12:05 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,521
Received 94 Upvotes on 87 Posts
Going back to your post 6...

I see nothing to indicate that Y2 will be in use with the old or new setup?

I see that you are using T7 ( a white wire). Where does this wire go on the other end?

You will need a different thermostat for zone 1.
The TH5220D will certainly work and it has a larger display than the TH5110D but you do not have a 2 stage heat or cool application.

You will not use O or B with the new zone control board.
 
  #11  
Old 09-23-18, 06:25 AM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
T7 goes to W2 on the t-stat.

you do not have a 2 stage heat or cool application....

yeah, right now I'm running just the single stage of the new 2 stage unit. I need to wire this up for the 2nd stage.

You will not use O or B with the new zone control board....

Neither? I ordered a couple of TH5220D's from ebay...hopefully I'll have a spare wire left over from either O or B to use as C so I don't have to rely on batteries. I was hesitant to get a "full control" t-stat for the 2nd zone since my current config has a simple t-stat with no heat/cool/fan/on/off switch...just temp control...but I guess if both are auto-switching it'll figure itself out and update my system to this century.
 
  #12  
Old 09-23-18, 10:15 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,521
Received 94 Upvotes on 87 Posts
Common wire colors that are used for the C terminal are brown or blue or occasionally black.

I would choose the blue wire for your new C terminal.

What color is used for common on the equipment output terminals of the existing zone control?
It looks like your terminals are arranged differently than my posted diagram.

Is black common?
 
  #13  
Old 09-25-18, 01:00 PM
V
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Brown being common makes sense here...though it's use is confusing to me. Black goes from L on the t-stat to emergency heat (E1) on the changeover control block and Brown goes from X, which also has a (C) beside it which I assume to stand for Common, to M1 on the zone control block. There's also a white wire on M1 which I assume to go to the damper, though I haven't traced it yet.

I didn't and still don't have any aux or emergency heat. Just a 2-stage compressor (now).

All other things being equal, I guess with the new t-stats coming and the new controller, this is all a little moot and I can just start over without having to understand too much of the existing config. Then I can get a wireless t-stat to control the 3rd zone (which is currently serially connected to zone 1's damper) and really be in the 21st century!
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: