Installing ecobee 4 with Aprilaire 6202 Zone Control

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Old 02-08-20, 05:20 PM
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Installing ecobee 4 with Aprilaire 6202 Zone Control

I spent several hours trying to get this to work with ecobee support to no avail. I am trying to use the ecobee 4 PEK since I only have 4 wires between the 6202 and the stat. The main issue is that the ecobee 4 will not power up. I pulled the stat and connected the red and W manually and the furnace fired. After rewiring without the PEK (using the Y wire as a C wire) ... still no luck. I have another one of these ecobee 4's for the upstairs furnace so I validated that the stat itself is not defective.

I was just about to give up and noticed on the inside cover of the 6202 that each stat has an optional X terminal that states it is for "24V(com) T-STAT VOLTAGE (if req'd)." So I moved the C wire to that post (instead of COM which is for damper output) ... and still no luck. Note I did this without the PEK, which I removed when we decided to bypass it to validate whether we had a defective PEK.

I need heat tonight so I fell back to the old White Rodgers stat for now.

What is really befuddling is that I can't find anything on the 6202 that looks like my 6202. The manuals I find online do not even show an optional X terminal. I also would like to know what the red LED's in the upper left corner mean.

The 6202 is circa 2000.

Thank you in advance for your help!
 
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Old 02-08-20, 09:02 PM
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The C terminal is common for both the thermostat as well as the damper.
I'm not aware of any X terminal.

I don't recommend the expansion module for a zoning system.
You need a dedicated C wire.

I'd need to see a picture of your board....... How-to-insert-pictures.

In the link is the Aprilaire knowledge base with the older manuals. I looked thru some of the older ones and didn't see any with an x terminal. Aprilaire archived manuals
 
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Old 02-08-20, 10:19 PM
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Aprilaire 6202

PJ -- Thank you for your response.

Yes! Nothing I can find online matches what I have installed here at home. See pics and let me know what you think.
 
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Last edited by pslatin; 02-08-20 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Add Pictures
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Old 02-09-20, 10:57 AM
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That is strange. I haven't seen that type board.
Anyway..... to answer your question.... the X terminals are identical to the C terminals.
 
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Old 02-09-20, 11:31 AM
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Yes it is surprising that there isn't more on the internet regarding this board.

I tried the X terminal but could not get that to work as well. If I use my multimeter to check, I want to put one probe on the X terminal ... and what other terminal? I am thinking COM but the wiring diagram labels that "COM for DAMPER OUTPUT".

 
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Old 02-09-20, 11:33 AM
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Your system runs on 24vAC. The R terminal is the hot side of the 24v and the C is the cold side.
You should measure 24vAC from R to any C or X terminal.

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Old 02-09-20, 02:42 PM
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Thank you again PJ. I tried to check the voltage across X and R ... and I blew a fuse on the unit.

At this point I am going to sleep on it and try tomorrow to make sense of this. I might call AprilAire as well.

I probably need to rule out something else: For years I have always believed that Zone 2 is the upstairs zone (where I want the ecobee installed). This is where I have been spending my time ... I have not touched the other Zone connections at all. But sometimes I wonder if I am fiddling with the basement thermostat which would explain why there was no power to the stat.

The red light near the "Normally Open" NO post means that the damper is OPEN right? So I think it is working correctly. Anyway I probably should double check this again.
 
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Old 02-09-20, 04:04 PM
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If you short X to R ..... the fuse will blow. If you didn't have a fuse that blew...... the transformer could be damaged.

Turn one stat off. See which damper is called to be open by checking the N.O. and COM damper outputs. 24v on the N.O. and COM signify damper open.
 
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Old 02-11-20, 01:16 PM
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Update: I talked to Aprilaire and one of their concerns was that maybe the zone board was underpowered and not getting the full 24V to the ecobee 4. I did validate that the transformer for the zone board is 24V. They suggested just connecting the ecobee up to the zone board with 4 three foot wires and I did that ... and the ecobee powered up! So this is good news. Now I need to trace things back and maybe after all is said and done, I may have to fish new wire.

BUT as I was testing the ecobee, I am learning that once the heat call is satisfied, the furnace is not shutting off. I called Aprilaire again and they said that ecobee's have electronic relays not mechanical and so sometimes they do not drop the voltage on W completely to zero when the heat call is satisfied. Not sure I understand or buy into this but indeed, nothing I do to the thermostat (including turning off HEAT at the stat) seems to stop the furnace from running.

I think it's time to call my HVAC guy.

 
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Old 02-11-20, 07:05 PM
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You are connecting a C wire to the stat...... correct ?
I didn't know that the Ecobee's didn't use relays. That's actually disappointing.
That will change my future replies.

Do you have a meter ?
Monitor the 24vAC on the R and C(X) terminals. See if it strays much below 24v when running the stat.

 
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Old 02-12-20, 11:57 AM
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UPDATE: So I wonder if somewhere in these forums there is a place for DIY'ers who make bonehead moves. Is there a Hall of Fame or Hall of Shame somewhere? I am a 2020 candidate.

So ... as long as we owned the house, the top set of terminals on the zone board were believed to be wired to the basement stat and bottom set of terminals were believed to be wired to the first floor stat. Had an HVAC guy when a new furnace was installed walk me through this and I was skeptical but he convinced me this was how it was wired and how the dampers worked. We actually labeled the ducts and the terminals and such as this was never done during original installation.

Well that was wrong. My bad for not even accepting that this could be a possibility.

Wired everything up connecting the right stats to the right terminals and all works well. One thing I did learn is that the ecobee behaves better if you install it while power to the board is off. I have wired these before and always cut power to the furnace. But the zone board has its own power supply and it never occurred to me I should figure out how to cut power to it. I started removing the fuse but a better solution is to cut power at the breaker.

Anyway, I accept my nomination to the DIY Hall of Shame.

At least we now know that ecobee 4's DO work with the old 6202 zone boards that Aprilaire doesn't even show on their website any more.

Thank you PJ for your help.
 
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Old 03-07-20, 01:47 PM
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I have this exact board (mine was installed in 2002 when the house was built). I am planning on getting the ecobee3 lite. Did you end up using the PEX? Can you describe your final wiring?

Also, are you only using an ecobee in one zone or in both zones?
 
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Old 03-07-20, 03:33 PM
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6202 / ecobee 4

Yes I used the PEK. You need to if you do not have five wires to the stat. I donít know about the ecobee 3 lite as I have ecobee 4 ... but I donít think there is a difference in wiring. No I only have one ecobee for the main floor zone and for the basement zone I have a traditional programmable thermostat (White Rogers). Using an ecobee in each zone should not be an issue at all.

If you want me to send a pic let me know but it is pretty straightforward ... just follow the instructions in the book. The 6202 actually HAS a C terminal so you use it ... I wish it wouldnít have been a pain to fish a new cable. Lastly, of course, make sure you connect the PEK to the right set of terminals! That was my huge stupid mistake.
 
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Old 03-07-20, 04:18 PM
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So I actually have 5 wires. My current thermostat only uses 4, but the 5th one was just wrapped around the other sheathing at each end. The C you are referring to is the Com on the board? Which also looks like the X in each zone. In all this, I also realized I have 3 sets of dampers so if I had a different board, I could actually have 3 different zones which might be better for what I need in the long run. I have a single HVAC that was zoned for upstairs and downstairs. (the two sets of dampers go to the two trunks upstairs (I think).
In the past I had two different programmable thermostats but they started fighting with each other. The downstairs would call for heat which moves upstairs through the stairway and the AC would kick on upstairs. I ended up putting a dumb thermostat downstairs. I'm hoping I can fine tune this a little better this year. I'm planning on swapping both of them out with ecobees.
 
 

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