240VAC Electric Baseboard Heating Thermostat?


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Old 01-05-21, 05:53 AM
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240VAC Electric Baseboard Heating Thermostat?

My apartment has 240V baseboard heating in the whole place it has 3 "zones" and 2x 20A/240VAC circuits (6x 20A Breakers) Two are HoneyWell CT410B and one is a HoneyWell CT498B 1512 (I like this one better).

My question is is there an "easy" way to replace these JUNK things with a more standard and readily available 24 VAC thermostat? Preferably a digital one (No smart CRAP ones just a better and more accurate one) also I know they are bi-metal sensors but how do those work I mean the room is about 60F I turn it until it clicks on at about the room temperature but how long should it stay on or how much should it raise the room temperature before it clicks back off?

Is there a ready made solution for adding a standard 24VAC thermostat? The boxes are plastic and are larger then standard do the 3 x 12/2AWG cables in one box along with the thermostats 4 12AWG leads

Thank You
 
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Old 01-05-21, 05:59 PM
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You have to convert the circuit. If you have the room it's no problem. Aube and several other companies make what you are looking for. These will run 24v electronic thermostats. They will not run smart thermostats or wifi thermostats.

Aube tech 240v/lv relays
 
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Old 01-13-21, 04:43 PM
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I looked at the box again it is bigger then necessary but I don't think that big relay thing will fit. I don't want any smart/WiFi or even a programmable thermostat I also don't want to spend more $ then I should as if they move me (to another unit) or I move (out of this place) it will most likely get left there.

I found This how are these units?

I assume better then the one that is already installed they get these for about $18 at Home Depot I should get the first one during the summer as they were cheaper then.
 
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Old 01-13-21, 04:53 PM
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The CT410B is a basic no frills thermostat. Fairly accurate or accurate enough.
One plus..... high wattage capable..... close to 5500 watts..... 22A.

Honeywell makes several good line voltage stats but you need to watch the wattage.
Most are only good for 3600 watts...... 15A.
 
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Old 01-13-21, 05:22 PM
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The only room I really care about is the bedroom this has one 60"/5' baseboard heater this is on a 20A circuit two separate 20A breakers. This circuit also serves the bathroom heater which is a 36"/3' heater the wires goes from the breaker box to the thermostat box in the bedroom then goes to the bathroom thermostat box each room has there own thermostat and the input wires (breaker box) are split to the bedroom thermostat input but each output is only control the one heater of the room it is in.

So another question then the CT410B clicks on at about the room temperature which is usually around 60F that is fine but how long long should it stay on what I mean is how much should it raise the temperature by before it clicks back off? I set it at 65F and the room gets too hot (for me at least!) like 72F - 74F
 
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Old 01-20-21, 11:26 AM
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The CT410B is a basic no frills thermostat. Fairly accurate or accurate enough.
One plus..... high wattage capable..... close to 5500 watts..... 22A.

Honeywell makes several good line voltage stats but you need to watch the wattage.
Most are only good for 3600 watts...... 15A.
I'm OK for now maybe in the summer when the price of Air conditioners and stuff goes up and the heating parts get cheaper I will get 2 of the HoneyWell TL7235A1003 Thermostats for next winter

I also found a better guide to adjustment from Cadet better then the HoneyWell guide never thought to do that
they mention turn the thermostat to 70F and when the room is at your comfort level turn the thermostat counter-clockwise just enough until it clicks off and the heaters should not cycle at around that temperature. The HoneyWell guide never mentioned that so I have it cycling about 65 - 68 so that is fine for now.

Anyway the living room has 2 20A breakers (240VAC) and two heaters so the TL7235A1003 May not work as you said only good for 15A the 2 20A breakers May not work as you said only good for 15A.

Also the breakers are not next to each other I thought handle ties were code now? If one side trips the other side is still on at 120VAC they both say Electric heat one is on the left other is on the right side but one space down to connect to the other buss/ leg.

That is wrong correct?
 
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Old 01-20-21, 05:36 PM
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Yes..... both breakers should be next to each other and it is customary to have the handle tied.
 
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Old 01-20-21, 08:21 PM
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Yes..... both breakers should be next to each other and it is customary to have the handle tied.
OK I goofed the one on the other side actually says "Stove" so the two heating circuits are right under each other

They did a poor job of mounting the panel the old one was smaller they basically took a sawz-all and cut the area to make it fit.

During the summer months I can smell musty attic smell and the panel has visible condensation on the door and the interior is now full of rust (I have never took the cover off the cover off photo was taken when they went outside to get another breaker so I snapped a quick photo)

I got pictures of that


Breaker Panel now (Before I fixed the labels as they mis-labed what breaker controlled what)

Circuit Breaker Panel Inside Before the damn stupid piece of crap mini-split was wired in
 
 

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