I am trying to install a new ecobee Tstat (EB-STATE6-01) on a 1980's hot water heating system. It has an old White-Rogers type 125-202 Tstat. The Tstat has three wires (a forth is not connected).
I have traced the wires back to the zone valve which is a White Rogers Type 1311. The wires are connected as follows:
I spent some time on the phone with ecobee support and they said the system was in compatible with ecobee. I am not confident that the person I was working with was competent. I have searched this forum and have seen implementations with a two wire system like this, Installing Ecobee T-Stats with White Rodgers Zone Valves , but my system has three wires.
I have read other forums that suggest a relay is needed.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this type of a setup.
Apparently Ecobee has changed the connection method.
It used to be it would acknowledge either connection to R.
Now when using C you need to connect to Rc.
I'm a little disappointed in Ecobee. The thermostat companies are so busy trying to better the other companies just offering a new product. They neglect to provide proper technical support. When I see that.... the thermostat goes on my do-not recommend list. Very unfortunate for a company like Ecobee.
Proper wiring diagrams should be.... no must be.... offered. A customer should not have to watch a video or download an app to install a product.
Does that thermostat come with an electronic control module that goes at the furnace ?
I need you to point me to the online info to that thermostat.
You will probably need a 24v relay too.
Ecobee did spend about an hour on the phone with me but basically said to call a technician. Here is a call summary they sent back to me. "Based on the pictures you sent me you are likely not immediately compatible with ecobee.
This is because you have 2 wires that open and close the valve, whereas ecobee is only compatible with systems that only require 1 wire for opening and closing.
If you would still like to try to install the ecobee, you can try to use an isolation relay as a workaround for this issue.
I wish I knew how the ecobee worked when it gets a heat call. From what I can tell from the old mercury WR Tstat it simply connected the Red (hot wire) from one terminal to the other, moving power from the #6 zone terminal to the #4 terminal when the Tstat called for heat. I don't know what kind of a signal the ecobee puts out on the Rc or Rh terminal. But could it be used to switch a relay that basically did that job?
Ecobee support is usually really helpful. But I think because your situation extends beyond a simple isolation relay they limit their advice. Anyways, I believe one half of a DPDT relay should suffice here (including pin #s on a standard 90340 relay):
W and C would go across the coil.
R would be common (pin #4)
6 NC (pin #5)
4 NO (pin #6)
Hi Pete, Thank you, I have ordered the 90-293Q relay.
Below is a drawing of my complete system (I think). I have read different posts on the Rc vs Rh, one would think I should connect to the Rh terminal, but I have read that only Rc works? My diagram shows it connected to Rc, if that doesn't work I will try the Rh.
Please let me know if you see something that does not look right.
Just to close this thread. I installed the Relay and the Ecobee is working as it should. The only odd thing is that I did try it with the Rh terminal and it did not work, using the Rc does.
A shout out to this Forum and Pjmax in particular. Thank you for the help that Ecobee was not able to provide.
I jumped the old aquastat and it's bad. I have a replacement but the location of the old aquastat is hard to access. Had to use a mirror and needle-nose pliers to pull the wires off the old one. May I attach the replacement aquastat to a different, more accessible pipe? Don't they all rise and fall, temperature wise, in unison? Thanks in advance, I'm a drummer, not a plumber.
Which color wire is voltage supply to t-stat ? Red I am assuming ?
should I be able to get a reading with a volt meter ?
And which color wire do I use for ground ?
Thank you