Hi All,

Love the forums here and lurk very often.

I am looking at moving a toilet about three feet and am wondering how much fall is required or needed to keep the toilet operating effectively?

I am over a very limited crawl space and the area to be worked on is basically only accessable from going thru the current floor, which is already removed.

In doing this I will have to cut the cast iron waste pipe and will be using PVC? going back?

This also creates a problem as the point at which the waste pipe is straight enough to cut is basically at the grounds surface, meaning to me that I will have to dig around it somewhat. The only thing I know of connecting the pvc and cast iron are the rubber sleeves with metal hose clamps which will obviously fail over time in the ground or not?

Is there a better way/idea?

Thanks in advance for any/all help

 

Check with your Building Inspection Department for local code for distance allowed from toilet flange center to vent. You should be O.K., though, if you're only moving it 3' further.
Usual fall is 1/4" of slope for each linear foot of pipe, but 1/8" slope is allowed in some situations if there isn't enough room. Sounds like you can make that, however.
Cut the cast iron with a reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades. Use a no-hub (aka mission) coupling (not a fernco as you described) to connect PVC to the cast iron.
The flange should be centered 12" out from the finished wall, and bolted to the top of the finished floor with only the thickness of the flange above floor level.
Good luck!
Mike

 

great! thanks for the infos

What is the

 

Just ask at any big box hardware.
Good Luck!
mike

 

Ok then what is a I have Westlakes, Home Depot, Lowes at my disposal

 

That's them.

 

ok then how about a bit of a description of the mission thingy? That way when asking the knowledgable employess some of these places have we can all know what I am asking for lol

 

A mission no-hub coupling is a rubber coupling surrounded by a stainless steel wrap to prevent the rubber connection from expanding in the case of backup in the system. 2 stainless steel bands tighten down to similar or dissimilar piping systems together. Fernco's normally are allowed for underground use only; the surrounding earth compacted around fitting prevents the expansion of fitting.


From your quest of simple knowledge, it is apparent that you definitely need to call a plumber regarding doing such a task.

 

From what I have read within the posts below a Fernco is nothing more than a rubber coupling with hose clamps at each end. Is this a no hub fitting? If so I have used this style before.
I have previously moved a toilet but had complete access underneath in a full basement. I used one of these rubber couplings with hose clamps on each end of it without problems.

Yet, a Mission is a To me these two sound like the same thing? short of the stainless steel

I have previously moved a toilet but had complete access underneath in a full basement. I used one of these rubber couplings with hose clamps on each end of it without problems.

At this location I do not have the luxury of a basement and have to dig into the ground far enough to be able to cut the cast iron with a reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades below the hubs that are pre-exisiting in the current set up so that I may or may not use the above mentioned coupling to connect same size pvc to the cast iron piping.

This is why I was worried about using the rubber coupling within the ground itself, thinking the bands would deteriorate.

 

You can get around using a coupling and tie right into a hub.


See picture below: Service Weight Gasket< found at plumbing supply houses


I have been witness to 20 year old ferncos with no problems underground other than the fact they use steel screws for the windings of clamp, which go bad after a few years of rust. Job security for the clamp makers.



http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/...BAR/033140.jpg


This goes into the bell end of cast-iron, and the new PVC pipe goes into the center of gasket. This takes place of the lead/oakum application commonly found in older cast-iron systems.

 

Ah great I have seen those Service Weight Gasket but obviously have zero experience with the lead/oakum hubs.

What is the best way to seperate the lead/oakum hubs? lots of heat and hammer away carefully if there is such a thing?

I have currently have the floor flange into the closet? into a 45 then into the ground with sink and tub connections below this. It also looks that further down into the crown yet another hub exists.

I had originally planned cutting the cast iron below the sink/tub connections and starting fresh from there as I am basically moving all plumbing.

With that Service Weight Gasket if I can successfully remove the lead/oakum hub. I can save myself alot of work or so it seems. This will also allow me to keep all new plumbing about the ground level.