My bathroom is the bane of my existance right now, but I'm just going to focus on this one problem for the moment: my toilet flange.

The flange is rusted. Completely. Into dust. Ergo, it requires replacement and until then, my toilet is in the middle of the room, completely unusable.

Have I mentioned this is my only toilet? (sigh)

I've since discovered that I have a 3" I.D. PVC waste line.

The old flange is (was) a combo metal/PVC reducing flange - 4 to 3. It was installed on the OUTSIDE of my 3" waste line.

I've managed to cut off the flared part of the old flange, leaving the straight part of the flange still epoxyed to the outside of my waste line. This leaves my total O.D. as approximately 4". There is only 1.5" of old flange remaining on the waste line.


My questions:

1) How difficult is it to break an epoxy seal with cutting and a chisel? Will I simply destroy the waste line in this area? Do I have a chance at getting the 1.5" of remaining PVC from the old flange off the waste line? Then I can install a new 4-3 reducer flange without much fanfare.

2) If the above is ridiculously difficult, is it ok to have multiple "ledges" inside a waste line? If I use a straight flange, it's I.D. is too big for the O.D. of what is currently existing. I'd need a "spacer" ring of PVC to make up the distance.
I'd have a ledge from my "spacer" PVC ring and an even bigger ledge from the top of the waste line and the remaining PVC from the old flange. Can I take care of these ledges by caulking them to reduce the chance of something catching on them? Would a material other than caulk be better?

3) Presuming the above two choices don't work, I have to cut the waste line down and rebuild it. Do to access issues (long story), I'd be cutting from the inside of the waste line. Is is critically important to get a completely even cut? When I butt-up the new PVC, can I just infill any gaps with epoxy or caulk or some other magical substance? (I understand that I'd need a collar on the outside)

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd really like to have my toilet back!

 

If the cast iron flange was epoxy glued you will probably break the PVC pipe trying to remove the rest of the cast iron. They make PVC closet (floor) flanges that go inside the 3' pipe. Click on the link below.

http://www.plumbest.com/searchengine.../specs/go.html

May be the way to go. Keep checking this post as other professionals may have ideas also.Good luck and post back.

 

Hmmm....

All of the metal is gone - it was only the ring at the top. I lifted it out with a putty knife, to give you an idea of how badly it was rusted.

The rest of the flange was/is PVC (which is epoxyed to my PVC waste line).
I've cut off the top part of the PVC.

All of the reducing flanges I've found fit outside the 3" PVC waste, not inside. Maybe some sort of plumbing supply store would have more choices than my local home depot? (though I couldn't find an inside 3" on that website you posted)

I've heard rumors about a reducing flange that would fit inside a 3" waste, but I'm afraid of reducing my I.D. further than 3". The smaller the I.D., the more likely for a back-up to occur!

 

Sorry. I didn't tell you that you had to go to "Description" at the top of the page and scroll to PVC Closet Flanges. Has a picture too. I agree about lessening the diameter of the hole. Now that you have the PVC cut off perhaps you can just buy a glue on closet flange and finish the repair. Get a measurement before you buy it so you know the neck is long enough. Good luck.

 

if you go to a plumbing supply house not h.d. they should have a few options.one is a replacement metal ring for the top. another is made by a company called Oatey. is a rubber seal on the outside & fits into the 3" pipe. it also has a longer throat. good luck

 

Hello,

I have a 3" PVC drain pipe in my basement that has a small leak around one of the seals where one of the couplers are. Is there some way for me to try to stop the leak without having to cut out the coupler and such?

Thanks in advance!!

Barry

 

Only way I know to seal this type of leak without cutting the fitting out is a waterproof epoxy. You'll have to make sure it is dry when you apply it and give the epoxy sufficient time to dry before running water down it. Just before bed would be a good time, then it can dry overnight. Good luck.

 

That's the strange part. I can't seem to get it to stop seeping long enough to put anything on it.. :-( I guess I could try blocking the drain further up to see if I could get it dry long enough..

Thanks for the reply!!

 

With a little luck, there is a clean-out plug ahead of the leaking fitting.Just be careful to use a big enough plugging medium (rags or whatever) so that it doesn't fall down the drain and makle a bigger mess. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your responses and help. I ended up chiseling off the old PVC part of the flange, preping the surface, epoxying a new PVC flange on and crossing my fingers.

Though, now I'm struggling with my tank because despite repeated attempts at the reinstall, it's leaking and I'm getting water 3 stories down.

I'm off to HD tonight to get replacement gaskets.

 

Just make sure you tighten the tank bolts down evenly. You can pour a little water in the tank as you go to check for leaks. Overtightening will break the tank or bowl so checking as you go is a lot less expensive. Good luck.

 

One kit-o-parts later, my bolts are no longer leaking. Another kit-o-parts later, all gaskets and interior parts of the toilet have been replaced along with the supply line (I had another leak there too).

Yet I still hear a drip behind my wall.

Looking from 1-story underneith the toilet, the water is definitely dripping off my PVC waste line.

I think this means there are 2 possibilities:
1 - I suck at installing wax rings.
2 - I suck at PVC/epoxy joints.

I don't think choice one is what is happening because my sub-floor is dry.

Choice number two is possible because of the nature of the PVC joint I did.

I chipped off the old PVC flange, leaving the outside of my waste line ragged. I epoxyed the new flange over this anyway.

I think the water must be traveling through this joint.

Should I:
A) uninstall the toilet, cut out the PVC flange, cut the waste line down, and build it back up with clean ends, or
B) add some sort of caulk/goop substance inside the waste line to attempt to seal the joint.

Any thoughts?

 

I have a leak coming from a 3" waste line - but I want to goop the INSIDE of the line, not the outside. Is this ok? (long story, don't ask) How goopy do I need to make it? Is the product called "Goop" good enough?

 

Go with A.

Do it right the 1st time.

Rest easy at night knowing it was done right.

 

You shouldn't add any obstructions inside any plumbing lines, drain or supply.
It is best to seal leaks from outside. Sometimes leaks at couplings can be sealed with epoxy, pipe solvent (PVC glue for PVC for instance), or silicone caulk. The simple "secret", as stated, is that it be dry and stay that way until the seal cures.
Good luck!
Mike

 

I am thinking that leaks in PVC connectors are caused largely by not using PVC cleaner before glueing. The shiny coating is not glue friendly and should be removed before glueing.
bdfreese: Take a file and clean the area where the coupling meets the pipe before using whatever patching medium you use.
cdalecat: If your leak is not at a fitting, file a groove into the break to give the patch material more to hold onto and make sure surrounding surfaces are clean and dry and free of shiny coating.
Good luck to both of you.

 

I should have asked this before but,you use the word EPOXY for connecting the flange to pipe. Are you not using PVC cleaner and glue to connect them? As long as you are starting from square one, you should go with what Plumber 2000 said....Do it right the FIRST time.

 

I do have, and did use, the PVC cleaner.

The glue I'm using is for PVC as well - I believe it's an epoxy product which is why I keep refering to it as such.

One more question - is it really that difficult to do a correct PVC joint? Is it as easy as the cleaner/glue say (swab thoroughly and evenly)? Even if I do this "right," is there the possibility that I'll end up with a leaking joint?

 

There is a 99% chance you will do it right without no leaks,

It's not the difficult to redo this.

I would never trust a temp fix on a joint.

 

To of the same subjects were running from the same member in two forums, I merged the two, so if it looks strange thats why.

 

I quickly figured out that you merged the threads. My apologies for a bit of cross-posting.

Alright, I'll spend the afternoon trying to talk myself into doing this the right way.

In the meantime, I have a bucket to catch the drip (about 10 drips per flush).