I want to install a new toilet in my basement that has the drain plumbed and water source close. But the builder didnt place the two screws in the floor that tighten down the toilet to the floor. I Wonder why ?? and is there something I can do to get screw in place since there are no holes for them either? Thank you!
This floor is solid concrete.

 

If this was plumbed for a toilet then it should have a closet flange installed on it. This flange has slotted holes in it that hold the closet bolts and thats what hold the toilet down. I do not advise you to try putting screws into the concrete for holding the toilet. Being concrete, you have moisture which will rust the screws and then you will have no new place to drill for new screws.Tap around the edge of the pipe to make sure there isn't a flange that has had a light layer of concrete over it.
It would be advisable for you to take a measurement of the inside of the pipe and go to HD, Lowes or hardware store and explain your situation.They make flanges that go inside the pipe (although the contractor should have left a space around the pipe to install a flange that goes over the outside of the pipe).
One last, but important thing. The pipe IS PVC isn't it? Good luck and post back.

 

And the flange should be flush on top of the finished floor level, such as tile, and bolted to the floor (tapcons), in addition to being glued to the closet bend pipe. Use a masonry drill bit after a starter point (awl) on the tile, if that's what you're installing.
The two toilet bolts are slid into the slots of the flange and rotated to the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. You can hold them upright in place with extra nuts on the flange, and then washers and nuts on the base of the toilet.
Level the toilet to the finished floor with beveled plastic shims made for the purpose, if necessary.
Good Luck!
Mike

 

Thank you both for your help. It helped me understand.
This is PVC pipe that is straight out of the concrete with no bolts, no flange nothing. It is about 6" up off the concrete floor.
It only has a cap on the top right now.
Guess I am not understanding why they didnt add two bolts, or something like the flange you mentioned to the pipe.
I do not see any way to tighten down the toilet then.
What do you guys suggest as to tightening the toilet down with.
I appreciate your help so much!
I am no plumber, believe me, but always willing to learn.
thank you!

 

as said above, the flange needs to be flush with the finished floor. since the floor isnt finished, they couldnt add the flange. the flange will either go into or over the pvc pipe, which will need trimming to the right height after you finish the floor. the flange has a lip, which will have a couple slots on it. the two bolts will fit in these slots. you'll see how it works when you go to the store and buy it.

 

Get a can of PVC primer, a can of PVC glue and a PVC flange to fit the pipe.
After you install the finished floor level roughly around the pipe, cut the pipe off with a hacksaw, and install the flange.
To install the flange, clean the burrs off the pipe, and prime the pipe and the flange with PVC primer, and then smear PVC glue on both. As you glue it, make sure that the flange is turned so that the narrow ends of the flange bolt slots are near the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions for the toilet bolts to be properly positioned.
The flange should sit flush and level on top of the finished floor with only the thickness of the flange above finished floor level.
Drill pilot anchor holes (masonry bit) through the flange holes through the finished floor into the concrete, and bolt the flange down to it with tapcon screws. Then you can install the toilet bolts head first through the large end of the slots and slide them into the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, set the wax ring seal around the flange hole, and then lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring.
Sit or stand on the toilet and wiggle it down level to the floor. If the floor isn't level (with a level across the bowl), use beveled plastic wedges made for the purpose to level it.
Put the bolt washers on and then snug the bolt nuts down so that the toilet can't move. Do NOT overtighten the nuts, or you can crack the toilet base.
Hacksaw off the extra threaded bolt length above the nuts, so that the caps can fit over them.
Run a bead of tub-and-tile caulk around the front and sides of the toilet base for looks, but leave the back side open for easier leak detection.
Good luck!
Mike

 

Looks like there may have been a few ERRORS committed here. The pipe should have a space between the concrete and the pipe if for nothing else but expansion.Pipe should have been cut off and a closet flange installed, even with the floor.

I do not like using an "inside fit" closet flange as it restricts the flow. However if you try to chop out the concrete around the pipe, there is a good chance you will break the pipe. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or a good hardware store and buy an inside fit closet flange kit. It will have a closet flange and two closet flange bolts. You will also need PVC glue and cleaner and a wax seal. You will also need 4 tapcon screws and the drill bit that goes with them. The size will be dictated by the holes in the closet flange. Check this while at the store when buying the flange. Tapcon screws are special screws that go into concrete

Next question... How far away is the water supply? Should be no more 2ft as thats the max length of toilet supply lines.

Now on to the installation.
Measure the distance from the pipe center to the wall. If the distance is less than 12" you will need a 10" rough toilet. If its 12" or more you need a 12" toilet. This decides how far off the wall the tank will be. You don't want to be sitting on this toilet and lean back to discover you have several inches back there AND a cracked toilet.

Cut off the pipe flush with the floor. If you are putting down a finished floor, the flange will need to be flush with that finished floor.

The floor flange SHOULD have a straight pipe that slides into the drain pipe. If it has a shoulder, you will have to grind the drain pipe edge down to the depth of that shoulder, so that the flange sits flat on the floor.


Squaring the flange to the wall.
The flange will have 2 slotted holes with a large opening at the end of each hole. Measure the length of the thin part of the hole. Put a mark at the centerpoint of this measurement on the flange surface(both sides). Now find the center of the pipe from the wall. A straight edge will help. Now find the center of the drain pipe. Make a line across the center of the pipe extending 3" out from the pipe on both sides( these lines will line up with the lines you put on the flange to ensure its straight). These lines will be used several times throughout the toilet installation. Make sure you something that will not rub off easily.

Now your ready to glue the pipe and the flange together.
Use the cleaner on the INSIDE of the drain pipe and the OUTSIDE of the flange.
Put glue on both pieces in the same locations you used the cleaner.
Push the flange down into the pipe and with a slight twisting motion to line up the marks on the flange with the marks on the floor. Hold in place for a few seconds to prevent it from pushing back up. *DISCLAIMER* You ONLY have about 5 seconds to line the marks so you might want to practice dry first.
As your facing the wall the lines should be at 9 o'clock and 3o'clock when aligned.

Drilling to anchor the flange.
Drill the holes in the floor through the holes in the flange. There will be 4 round holes plus the 2 slotted holes. You want to drill into the 4 round holes. The depth will be dictated by the length of the tapcon screws. Blow the dust out of the holes as it will cause the screws not to anchor correctly. Using a drill driver ( electric or battery drill(full charge) with socket the size of the tapcon head) Screw driver won't work in this application.Drive the tapcons in in one smooth continious motion.Downward pressure will be needed as these are tough little things.


Installing the toilet.
Place the closet bolts(looks like bolts with oval shaped flat heads on them)into the large side of the slotted hole in the flange. Slide them back to the line that you made on the flange. Twist the bolt clockwise to lock it into the flange. Center the wax ring over the hole (drain)in the flange.With your thumb pinch a little of the wax onto the closet bolts to make them stand up straight. Align the holes in the base of the toilet with the closet bolts and carefully press it straight down onto the wax ring. You may want to sit on the toilet base to seat it completly. Put the washers that came with the closet bolts over the bolts and screw the supplied nuts. Screw the nuts down snuggly but not overly tight. Porcelain will break very easily so be careful.
You will have to cut any excess bolt off if the caps supplied with your toilet do not fit over them.
Now you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your toilet as to attaching the tank to the base. All thats left is to attach the water supply.

This has been a long post but if you have ANY questions or need clarification on ANYTHING please post back. I don't want you to have ANY problems.

Good Luck with your project.

 

I stand corrected

 

No Problem

 

Thank you all for your valuable time. My connection dropped while I was typing and I hope this does not double post.

I see some variying opinions on anchoring the toilet.

The only thing I am confused about right now is how the bolts that stick upward that tighten the toilet down is actually anchored.

I see the flange to use will go over the original drain pipe and have holes for the screws, but then have two holes at 3 and 9 to place the anchor bolts into?? correct?
But, If I drill holes inot the concrete for the 2 bolts, then how do I fill the holes to secure the bolts, with more concrete?
I see one says not to drill into the concrete.
Is the flange there for the purpose of these bolts sitting into it and the 4 tapcon screws then bolt it down to the concrete?
Yes I have water very close by.
Thank you all so much, I am learning more and more by each posts.
Sorry I am so plumber dumb.
Who said our Dads where not right when they said " Watch me and learn what I am doing" and we were playing the whole time and not watching them a bit, that we would use this info someday !
And my dad was a master electrician when I was a lid growing up and went with him ALOT and never watched a thing.

 

Correct

The bolts are held in place by the flange.

Correct

Posting of pictures can tell us alot, any chance of that?

 

here's some pictures, worth a thousand words.
http://doityourself.com/baths/plumbtoilet.htm

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/b..._1/install.htm

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/know...0406-4,00.html

 

The tapcon screws will anchor the flange to the floor. The 2 oval shaped flat headed bolts will then anchor the toilet to the flange. There is a cutout in the flange that these bolts slide into. When you tighten the nuts onto these bolts the toilet will pull the oval heads up against the bottom of the flange. This is what anchors the toilet to the flange and the floor at the same time. The tapcons keep the whole unit from pulling out of the floor. There is no additional concrete or any other filler needed. The picture links that Tae placed in his/her post are very valuable in seeing exactly what we are talking about.
Good Luck and post back.

 

Now my head hurts and I'm dazed and confused.
I think I'll just go back to caulking everything together.
(Ignore me family3. I'm just fading out a bit after all of that.)
RFLMAO

 

Just kidding. The help has me all in line, I am doing it this weekend!
THANK TO ALL WHO HELPED !
The pictures her SUPER, how better to show a non plumber how to do things by a picture.
I surely appreciate everyones time and lenghtly post, there are people who appreciate the help
Wish me luck with no flood or holes in the wrong places, and yes, I will not tighten the bolts to much!!!!!!!
family3 needs a second pottey ! BAD... too many girls in the house.....