Removing/reinstalling toilet questions

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Old 08-16-05, 09:48 AM
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Question Removing/reinstalling toilet questions

After reading the toilet replacing instructions on this site, I have a couple of questions. I'm removing my toilet and reinstalling it after the floor is tiled. My house is 55 yrs. old, so I'm guessing that the toilet flange is cast iron. Thanks in advance!

1) Which is preferable, toilet wax rings with sleeve or without sleeve?

2) The new floor will be 3/4" higher than before, so I'm guessing that I'll need a flange extender. Is a flange extender something plastic/iron that attaches to the flange in the floor, or is it an extra thick wax ring?
The toilet is right above a cold air return that is close to my furnace. I'd really hate to have water unknowingly drip into the furnace.

3) Caulking/putty between toilet & floor - yes or no? This site mentions to caulk or use putty to keep the toilet more stable, but I've heard others say not to because you won't notice a broken seal.

4) This site's instructions for "Install New Bowl" has a tip that says: "Dump some water into the bowl to make sure that the water won't leak out of the bottom. If it does, try to compress the wax seal more. If that doesn't work, you need to start over with a new wax seal." Stupid question, but will it be that obvious? Wouldn't having putty between toilet/floor conceal the problem?

5) Do I need new washers or gaskets for attaching the tank to the bowl (rubber spud washer & washers for tank mounting bolts, or can I use reuse the existing ones? Any other parts that I should consider replacing?

6) Do I need to use teflon tape or some sort of sealant on the threads where the braided steel flex line connects to the toilet or the supply valve?
 
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Old 08-16-05, 08:02 PM
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BHB_RHG, Welcome to the DIY Forums.
I'll answer in order:
1) Personal preference is with sleeve. Some codes do not permit them.
2) Flange extenders come in different thicknesses and you may need more than one for the height of your tile. They are usually plastic and have a sealing substance on one side to make a watertight seal to the flange. The extender(s) should all be screwed down to the floor through the provided holes including the original flange. This keeps pressure from being put on the piping while tightening down the toilet.
3) Caulk or putty (?) is a "looks" thing. If the toilet was unstable, you would need shims as neither caulk or putty would help. Should you decide to use either, just leave the back side of the toilet open. You'll never see it unless you have occasion to crawl around back there.
4) It would show a leak if you slid the wax seal over when installing the bowl. It would not show a small leak immediately. We discussed caulk and putty.
5) I would replace at least the spud washer. It has been in one position for some time and it may leak on you. Bolts may be fine but I would look at the rubber washers that go inside the tank. This is not a place NOT to spend a couple bucks.
6) Where the line connects to the toilet, there should be a rubber gasket inside the nut. You may need some tape where it connects to the valve unless it is a compression fitting.
Good Luck.
 
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Old 08-17-05, 11:37 AM
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Excellent. Thank you very much.
 
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