Tell me if I've got the right idea - my first time (and last I hope). I'm replacing the one-peice sink on my bath vaniety. I'm about to cut away at the caulk under the rim w/my utility knife today, and hopefully, I'm able to lift off the old sink. I've installed the new faucet on the new sink. My thought is to run a bead of adhesive caulk along the top rim of the wood vaniety (after I've cleaned it), then place the sink down on it. Is that it? Any thing else I should know? After all this, I'm going under to hook up the water lines and drain. Thanks. Cindy

 

Hello: Cindy

You've got the process and method just about right. And I am sure you are aware or should be aware there are a few securing clips/clamps under the rim. Once those are removed, the sink and be lifted out and removed.

Just be sure the adhesive caulking is the right type of that specific purpose or there may be a gasket that comes with the new sink. Read the installation instructions carefully and follow them exactly.

Check back on your question several more times. Moderators and other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, suggestions and or help needed. Allow some time for them to do so.

Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically.

Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent & Forums Monitor.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

 

I don't like to put down a "bead of caulk" on the top of the vanity. Just a dab in the corners and one maybe in the middle[none in the middlle on the back if there is room for it]. That is plenty imo. I am always thinking of what will it take to remove[then clean] this sucker should I have to,since I will not be getting paid to do it in my own house

If the vanity is plumb and level the top should sit on it pretty good. Due to the fact that there is a backsplash preventing most movement[if it is tight to the wall] I would maybe just put a heavy dab in the corners. You may thank joneq later when you are not doing this

I also like plastic plumbing underneath,it lasts longer imo and besides That it is nobody's beeswax what is under my sink

 

Hurray for handy women.

What someone said about holding it down at 4 points is not a bad idea. You then can finish surface caulking it with the water soluable tub/tile caulk. This does a beautiful job. You inject under the top side of the rim and get rid of all the excess with your wet finger and wet rag till all you see is the filled in gap, with nothing else protruding out. Silicone caulk is one of the best adhesives you can use for the actual 'setting'. I believe you have a rimless sink and will have no clamps. PVC drain with pop up stopper assembly is the way to go. You may want to apply some silicone caulk under the chrome rim of the strainer when asembling this entire assembly though the hole in the bottom of the sink. But, it won't leak even if you don't use caulk. Why? The rubber gasket below won't let it leak. The bathroom sink is the only sink that utilizes the principle that the rim of the strainer does not *need* to be caulked. The reason is that this is the only sink that has an overflow. The overflow water comes into the drain tailpiece *below* the strainer rim. That's why the rubber gasket that is held in place by the big adjustment nut below is the key seal.

When you assemble 2-piece tailpiece (tailpiece plus extension), be sure to use teflon tape where the two halves screw together as this threading is not self sealing the way a pipe thread acts. It's very important that teflon tape and/or pipe dope be used on those fine threads.

 

I believe she is referring to a one-piece molded cultured marble or acrylic vanity top with molded-in bowl/ in which case there are usually no hold-down clips, just the adhesive calkl.

I like the idea of using some beads only in the four corners; but then after dropping the sink in place, I run a small bead along the entire outside edge of the joint. I don't want any water which weeps over the edge of the top to find its way to the unprotected endgrain of the particle board or plywood cabinet.