Matching new floor to toilet flange
#1
11-27-05, 06:54 AM
Matching new floor to toilet flange
Here is my latest home improvement problem
The new wood flooring does not come up to the toilet drain pipe
, so there isn't anything solid to create a seal with the wax ring.
It has been suggested that i fill in the gap with some sort of cement.
Any suggestions from you all??
Thanks,
Craig
The new wood flooring does not come up to the toilet drain pipe
, so there isn't anything solid to create a seal with the wax ring.It has been suggested that i fill in the gap with some sort of cement.
Any suggestions from you all??
Thanks,
Craig
Last edited by eiresurg; 11-28-05 at 10:42 AM. Reason: nonfunctioning html link
#2
11-28-05, 07:45 PM
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That whole situation is incorrect. The flange should of been removed first, the wood floor brought to the edge of pipe, not edge of flange.
From there an extension of pipe should of been put in place, along with the new closet flange installed on top of the finished floor surface properly anchored down so that the closet bolts hold.
Along with the flange, I would be removing that straight stop serving the water line and installing a new one higher up out of the floor; that old one will fail some day and will be impossible to replace, whether it was just installed or not.
There is a chance that the floor was cut too far outside of the bottom of the new toilet; I've seen this happen with shoddy tile work and they have to come back and cut pieces to bring it up to the flange. With wood that idea is nearly impossible.
While you are at this stage, I would rip that floor up and have whoever did it come back and do it right without leaving such a mess to make setting the toilet an impossibility.
I'm sure others will reply with alternatives to fix this problem, but as a plumber I come across these bad floor installs and I offer one option to my customers: Tear it out, do it right, install the flooring and plumbing up to industry standard like it would be done in new construction. This protects both the homeowner and the contractor.
I just walked away from a job and will return once the floor man removes the flooring to just pull the toilet up in a 1/2 bath. They overlayed the floor up to the toilet, knowing that the toilet cannot be removed.
I guess I shouldn't knock shoddy workmanship, it lines my pockets on a weekly basis. I just feel sorry for honest homeowners that are constantly double spending because they chased the cheapest contractor to do the work in their home, only to find out that they incorrectly did the work.
From there an extension of pipe should of been put in place, along with the new closet flange installed on top of the finished floor surface properly anchored down so that the closet bolts hold.
Along with the flange, I would be removing that straight stop serving the water line and installing a new one higher up out of the floor; that old one will fail some day and will be impossible to replace, whether it was just installed or not.
There is a chance that the floor was cut too far outside of the bottom of the new toilet; I've seen this happen with shoddy tile work and they have to come back and cut pieces to bring it up to the flange. With wood that idea is nearly impossible.
While you are at this stage, I would rip that floor up and have whoever did it come back and do it right without leaving such a mess to make setting the toilet an impossibility.
I'm sure others will reply with alternatives to fix this problem, but as a plumber I come across these bad floor installs and I offer one option to my customers: Tear it out, do it right, install the flooring and plumbing up to industry standard like it would be done in new construction. This protects both the homeowner and the contractor.
I just walked away from a job and will return once the floor man removes the flooring to just pull the toilet up in a 1/2 bath. They overlayed the floor up to the toilet, knowing that the toilet cannot be removed.
I guess I shouldn't knock shoddy workmanship, it lines my pockets on a weekly basis. I just feel sorry for honest homeowners that are constantly double spending because they chased the cheapest contractor to do the work in their home, only to find out that they incorrectly did the work.
#3
11-29-05, 06:57 AM
DUNBAR,
yeah, i know it's shoddy. i did the work myself not realizing what i had done until it was too late! this is my first home improvement project 
it would be nearly impossible to replace those pieces of flooring in that they are tongue and groove . . . any other suggestions? ??
thanks!
craig
yeah, i know it's shoddy. i did the work myself not realizing what i had done until it was too late!
this is my first home improvement project 
it would be nearly impossible to replace those pieces of flooring in that they are tongue and groove . . . any other suggestions? ??thanks!
craig
#4
11-30-05, 08:36 AM
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It can be done, as far as the tongue and groove. Find the first board in front of the toilet that isn't under the toilet, cut down where the first piece ties into the board under the toilet. (Cut to the left side an 1/8 of an inch so that you are cutting the board under the toilet, the small grooved piece will come out once the first board under the toilet is out)
From there, you basically remove the rest of the wood out to the back wall where the toilet tank rests against and you have basically what you had to begin with. You may or may not have to run 3/4 round as a perimeter with your base trim so you can get the last piece in at the wall.
It might sound like a great deal of work, but that is how I would do it so you never have to deal with any fabrication to make it work involving major alterations.
Have you set the toilet bowl down on the floor to see if the bottom covers where the cutout of the floor is? I know you want a good looking finished product, the floor looks great, just that it has the mechanicals in a bad way without following my logic to start over to have it right.
I did one very similar to one of these about a month ago. Took 3 wax rings, extension ring, long johnny bolts and had the customer sign off on the bill that I wrote in full detail that I was not responsible for the shoddy workmanship of the tile guys. That setup is riddled with problems.
From there, you basically remove the rest of the wood out to the back wall where the toilet tank rests against and you have basically what you had to begin with. You may or may not have to run 3/4 round as a perimeter with your base trim so you can get the last piece in at the wall.
It might sound like a great deal of work, but that is how I would do it so you never have to deal with any fabrication to make it work involving major alterations.
Have you set the toilet bowl down on the floor to see if the bottom covers where the cutout of the floor is? I know you want a good looking finished product, the floor looks great, just that it has the mechanicals in a bad way without following my logic to start over to have it right.
I did one very similar to one of these about a month ago. Took 3 wax rings, extension ring, long johnny bolts and had the customer sign off on the bill that I wrote in full detail that I was not responsible for the shoddy workmanship of the tile guys. That setup is riddled with problems.
#5
12-06-05, 08:19 AM
i've decided to try using an epoxy. there's a company that makes a few epoxies such as PC-11, PC-7, PC-Woody, etc. i got the PC-11 epoxy to fill in this gap. supposedly it doesn't shrink and can be drilled and sanded.
anyone have any experience with this stuff?
craig
anyone have any experience with this stuff?
craig
