Help with tub faucet
#1
12-08-05, 09:35 PM
Help with tub faucet
I'm having trouble with sealing a fairly wide gap between the tub facet and the wall. As you can see from the below pictures, the caulking is cracked. This is the second try at it (sorry for the mildew 
).
Originally the renovator used grout, I believe, but it started cracking too. So that's why I tried tub caulking.
I was thinking of removing the caulking and filling the gap with that expandable foam and then re-caulk it. Good idea?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
).Originally the renovator used grout, I believe, but it started cracking too. So that's why I tried tub caulking.
I was thinking of removing the caulking and filling the gap with that expandable foam and then re-caulk it. Good idea?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
12-09-05, 07:27 AM
Member
You can fix this permanently with ease. Measure the gap first.
Look under the spout where it butts against the wall. If there is a slot there, you will find an allen screw (usually 1/8" to 3/16"). Remove the screw and pull the spout off. There are "O" rings sealing it and holding it on so it may be a bit difficult. Cut off the same amount of pipe as the gap was. Re-install the spout. Use a small amount of silicone caulk to prevent water from going into the wall where the pipe comes out. NOTE: Turn on the water before caulking and check to make sure the pipe in the spout is sealed and not leaking into the wall.
If there is no slot or allen screw, the spout is screwed on. Wrap the spout with a rag to protect the finish and use a wrench or large pair of Channellocks to turn the spout counter-clockwise. The pipe coming out of the wall should be galvanized or copper. Either unsweat the male adapter (if copper) or remove the nipple (if galvanized) and adjust the distance it sticks out of the wall to be the same amount shorter as the gap is wide. You may have to get a new nipple cut if it is galvanized. Apply a few wraps of teflon tape or pipe joint compound and screw the pipe back into the wall and the spout back on. Apply small amount of silicone as stated above. Good luck.
Look under the spout where it butts against the wall. If there is a slot there, you will find an allen screw (usually 1/8" to 3/16"). Remove the screw and pull the spout off. There are "O" rings sealing it and holding it on so it may be a bit difficult. Cut off the same amount of pipe as the gap was. Re-install the spout. Use a small amount of silicone caulk to prevent water from going into the wall where the pipe comes out. NOTE: Turn on the water before caulking and check to make sure the pipe in the spout is sealed and not leaking into the wall.
If there is no slot or allen screw, the spout is screwed on. Wrap the spout with a rag to protect the finish and use a wrench or large pair of Channellocks to turn the spout counter-clockwise. The pipe coming out of the wall should be galvanized or copper. Either unsweat the male adapter (if copper) or remove the nipple (if galvanized) and adjust the distance it sticks out of the wall to be the same amount shorter as the gap is wide. You may have to get a new nipple cut if it is galvanized. Apply a few wraps of teflon tape or pipe joint compound and screw the pipe back into the wall and the spout back on. Apply small amount of silicone as stated above. Good luck.
#3
12-09-05, 08:52 AM
Thanks for the reply majakdragon.
Although I can probably do this "repair", I don't feel comfortable doing it (does that make sense?
)
Is there any other way of just using some kind of material to seal the gap up?
Although I can probably do this "repair", I don't feel comfortable doing it (does that make sense?
)Is there any other way of just using some kind of material to seal the gap up?
#4
12-09-05, 09:14 AM
Member
The pictures indicate that the caulk gets hard and then cracks. This could be due to movement in the spout pipe also. You can try removing all the old material. Clean well with isopropyl alcohol and make sure that both the wall and spout are completely dry. Use 100% silicone caulk. You can get this in colors. Make sure you push it into the void and use a wet finger or end of a spoon (dipped in water) to smooth the seal out. Try not to get too much excess around the spout and remove what you can before it sets. Allow to cure completely before using. Good luck.
#5
12-09-05, 09:33 AM
Thanks 
Will definitely give that a try.
Is 100% silicone caulking more flexible than caulking that states its for "tub and bathrooms"?
This is what I'm currently using.
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...t_category_rn=
Even tho it says it won't crack it does
Will definitely give that a try.
Is 100% silicone caulking more flexible than caulking that states its for "tub and bathrooms"?
This is what I'm currently using.
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...t_category_rn=
Even tho it says it won't crack it does
#6
12-09-05, 10:30 AM
Member
The main difference I can see is that 100% silicone is NOT paintable. Your caulking looks more like a shrinkage problem (which it says it doesn't do).
#7
12-11-05, 07:02 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Warren, Vermont
Posts: 327
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
The pipe that the spout is attached to comes down from the tub/shower valve, which may not be well supported. The cracked caulk is from movement. When properly installed at the right distance, the tub spout should be tight to the wall. If there is access to the backside of that wall, you could put some shims between the vertical pipe and the shower wall to keep the spout tight. You would not need to remove the spout, but would need to clean off all of the old caulk before shimming. Otherwise, follow majakdragon's advice.
Silicone is probably a little better at sticking to things. You can get white silicone. It is also a little more flexible than tub & tile caulk, which is an acrylic caulk with mildewcide in it.
Silicone is probably a little better at sticking to things. You can get white silicone. It is also a little more flexible than tub & tile caulk, which is an acrylic caulk with mildewcide in it.
