I've been doing some improvements on my new (to me) rental, and I want to do something about the shower faucet. I've worked with plenty of sink faucets, shutoff valves, and drains before, but never tackled one of these. The faucet seems to work OK, it just looks bad. I have seen some "trim kits", but I have no idea what brand or type of faucet it is, and I'm not sure if a trim kit would replace what looks bad. It is a single handle, lever type and the actual handle looks OK, but what the handle attaches to looks bad. The round cover looks like it came from another type of faucet and was just thrown on there. I have limited access from behind, and I'm not even sure if I can remove the old mixer valve.

Does anyone know of a good site where I can try to identify my fixture to see if I can replace everything but the valve?

If I decide to replace the whole thing and I decide not to try this myself, what would a plumber typically charge to do this?

I'll see if I can get some pictures.

Thanks,

Tim

 

I got a few pictures--sorry, but they are poor quality:

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4386/picture86qw.jpg

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/8701/picture90oy.jpg

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4875/picture130pd.jpg

 

Your faucet appears to be a Peerless faucet, possibly a Delta. The Peerless website is under construction. The trim plate or escutcheon is probably not a stock item. You could take a photo, with a few dimensions, to your local plumbing supply and see if they can help you ID the model and get the part.
Unless you have corrosive water, that style of shower valve should last a long time.
If you decide to replace it, you need access to the back of the valve. You need an opening at least about 2 ft. square, just behind the valve, at a minimum.
A plumber might charge in the ballpark of $200-300 labor plus $150 or more for materials, depending upon type and brand of faucet and degree of access to back of shower. Hourly labor rates vary widely and there is always the possibility of unknowns (such as not being able to completely shut off water due to worn or corroded valves).

 

OK, thanks--that's a start. After cleaning it, I found that the trim plate actually says Delta on it, but I don't know if it was just thrown on there or if it came with the faucet. It just slips on there and was resting on the pipe that protrudes from the wall. There appears to be a missing part, as the pipe is exposed coming out of the wall.

Forgive me for not knowing the name of the parts, but is it possible to replace everything that protrudes from the wall? The half-dome thing the handle attaches to is very worn, and behind that is where there must be something missing.


Close up pic

I would also like to replace the tub spout, which I assume are fairly universal, but it does have the diverter on the spout.

As you can see, my access to the valve is limited, so I would like to try to avoid messing with it. There is some of that green corrosion on the outside of the valve. Would it be a good idea to try to use some cleaner on that to slow down the corrosion?

Thanks again!

 

The handle looks more like a Peerless than a Delta, but the rest looked more Delta.
It is missing the chrome sleeve. You can get a new sleeve, escutcheon and cap (which really only needs to be cleaned), but you will probably have to go to a plumbing supply house that deals with Delta. Also get an overhaul kit with new seats, springs and cam packing. For $10 more, I would even replace the ball (prefer metal, not plastic).
Tub spouts come in different styles. You should pull the old one off just before you go for the new one. If there is a notch underneath the tub spout, near the wall, look for a hex head screw. If you find one, get an Allen wrench and unscrew it. Then slide it off the pipe. Buy a slip-on for a replacement. Some are threaded onto a 1/2" fitting. If yours is threaded on, measure how far into the back of the spout the threads start, and get one with the threads at the same depth.
Don't bother with the corrosion. When metal corrodes, it oxidizes and forms a corrosion layer on the metal. This corrosion layer can help to minimize or stop further corrosion. If there is a lot of green built up, it is a bigger leak and maybe should be corrected.