Installing a shower valve
#1
04-10-06, 08:58 PM
Installing a shower valve
I've got a new, one piece, fiberglass shower i'm installing in my basement. I'm going to install the valve on the shower wall and the head above the shower in the drywall. I have 2 questions:
1- Any reccomondations on cutting the shower for the valve? Should I buy a hole saw? I assume I go inside to outside. And does the fiberglass splinter? I've heard to put duct tape around the area before cutting to prevent splintering...does that work?
2- Is there an 'average' height where the valve should be installed?
Thanks in advance!
1- Any reccomondations on cutting the shower for the valve? Should I buy a hole saw? I assume I go inside to outside. And does the fiberglass splinter? I've heard to put duct tape around the area before cutting to prevent splintering...does that work?
2- Is there an 'average' height where the valve should be installed?
Thanks in advance!
#2
04-11-06, 07:21 AM
Funny, I'm doing the exact same thing.
I bought a brand new hold saw for the job. It was cheap and I understand the hole saw should be very sharp for the job. I don't know about duct tape, I have always heard to use masking tape. I'd be afraid all the glue on duct tape would gum up the blade, not to mention be hard to clean off the shower. Yes, masking tape help a lot. I have cut down luan doors and they didn't splinter at all when I used masking tape. Buy the wide stuff. And yes, cut from the finished side to the outside.
According to an FAQ I found on some manufacturer's site, the height of the shower head is basically personal preference. They didn't have a recommendation. I've got mixed feelings. I'd really rather keep in down on the shower stall, but it does seem like it should be about 6" higher than that.
One other thing you might run into I'll mention...
I couldn't understand from the instructions how they thought the valve was supposed to remain rigidly fixed in the shower wall given it had no mounting hardware to do so (at least on the valve I bought). I called the help line and asked how this was supposed to work. They said I didn't have to mount it, the pipes hold it in place one it is plumbed in. I burst out laughing at them and said that sounds great for them out there in California, but the rest of the country has moved on to CPVC piping and it's not holding anything in place. They said, "Oh, I guess we're a little behind." So, I need to jury-rig something to rigidly mount it. Just thought I'd throw that in, in case you have a similar situation.
By the way, you'll get a better, more professional job if you set the thing in mortar also. That minimizes the risk of stress cracks in the floor over the years. Don't want to have to rip the thing out and replace it because of cracks.
I bought a brand new hold saw for the job. It was cheap and I understand the hole saw should be very sharp for the job. I don't know about duct tape, I have always heard to use masking tape. I'd be afraid all the glue on duct tape would gum up the blade, not to mention be hard to clean off the shower. Yes, masking tape help a lot. I have cut down luan doors and they didn't splinter at all when I used masking tape. Buy the wide stuff. And yes, cut from the finished side to the outside.
According to an FAQ I found on some manufacturer's site, the height of the shower head is basically personal preference. They didn't have a recommendation. I've got mixed feelings. I'd really rather keep in down on the shower stall, but it does seem like it should be about 6" higher than that.
One other thing you might run into I'll mention...
I couldn't understand from the instructions how they thought the valve was supposed to remain rigidly fixed in the shower wall given it had no mounting hardware to do so (at least on the valve I bought). I called the help line and asked how this was supposed to work. They said I didn't have to mount it, the pipes hold it in place one it is plumbed in. I burst out laughing at them and said that sounds great for them out there in California, but the rest of the country has moved on to CPVC piping and it's not holding anything in place. They said, "Oh, I guess we're a little behind." So, I need to jury-rig something to rigidly mount it. Just thought I'd throw that in, in case you have a similar situation.
By the way, you'll get a better, more professional job if you set the thing in mortar also. That minimizes the risk of stress cracks in the floor over the years. Don't want to have to rip the thing out and replace it because of cracks.
#3
04-11-06, 08:00 AM
Member
I agree with everything Chiguy said. Use the masking tape. Most fiberglass shower units I have seen need a frame around them. You would put a support across the upright studs to secure the valve to. Also one at the top wherever you place the showerhead arm elbow. If you ever have to change the shower arm, you don't want the riser pipe "floating" around in the wall.
Height is a personal preference. Just make sure you seal around the cover for the valve and the shower arm so water does not run back into the wall. Since this is a "build from scratch" project, you may want to incluse an access panel for future use should you need to access the valve. Good luck on your project.
Height is a personal preference. Just make sure you seal around the cover for the valve and the shower arm so water does not run back into the wall. Since this is a "build from scratch" project, you may want to incluse an access panel for future use should you need to access the valve. Good luck on your project.
#4
04-11-06, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by chiguy
Funny, I'm doing the exact same thing.
I bought a brand new hold saw for the job. It was cheap and I understand the hole saw should be very sharp for the job. I don't know about duct tape, I have always heard to use masking tape. I'd be afraid all the glue on duct tape would gum up the blade, not to mention be hard to clean off the shower. Yes, masking tape help a lot. I have cut down luan doors and they didn't splinter at all when I used masking tape. Buy the wide stuff. And yes, cut from the finished side to the outside.
According to an FAQ I found on some manufacturer's site, the height of the shower head is basically personal preference. They didn't have a recommendation. I've got mixed feelings. I'd really rather keep in down on the shower stall, but it does seem like it should be about 6" higher than that.
One other thing you might run into I'll mention...
I couldn't understand from the instructions how they thought the valve was supposed to remain rigidly fixed in the shower wall given it had no mounting hardware to do so (at least on the valve I bought). I called the help line and asked how this was supposed to work. They said I didn't have to mount it, the pipes hold it in place one it is plumbed in. I burst out laughing at them and said that sounds great for them out there in California, but the rest of the country has moved on to CPVC piping and it's not holding anything in place. They said, "Oh, I guess we're a little behind." So, I need to jury-rig something to rigidly mount it. Just thought I'd throw that in, in case you have a similar situation.
By the way, you'll get a better, more professional job if you set the thing in mortar also. That minimizes the risk of stress cracks in the floor over the years. Don't want to have to rip the thing out and replace it because of cracks.
I bought a brand new hold saw for the job. It was cheap and I understand the hole saw should be very sharp for the job. I don't know about duct tape, I have always heard to use masking tape. I'd be afraid all the glue on duct tape would gum up the blade, not to mention be hard to clean off the shower. Yes, masking tape help a lot. I have cut down luan doors and they didn't splinter at all when I used masking tape. Buy the wide stuff. And yes, cut from the finished side to the outside.
According to an FAQ I found on some manufacturer's site, the height of the shower head is basically personal preference. They didn't have a recommendation. I've got mixed feelings. I'd really rather keep in down on the shower stall, but it does seem like it should be about 6" higher than that.
One other thing you might run into I'll mention...
I couldn't understand from the instructions how they thought the valve was supposed to remain rigidly fixed in the shower wall given it had no mounting hardware to do so (at least on the valve I bought). I called the help line and asked how this was supposed to work. They said I didn't have to mount it, the pipes hold it in place one it is plumbed in. I burst out laughing at them and said that sounds great for them out there in California, but the rest of the country has moved on to CPVC piping and it's not holding anything in place. They said, "Oh, I guess we're a little behind." So, I need to jury-rig something to rigidly mount it. Just thought I'd throw that in, in case you have a similar situation.
By the way, you'll get a better, more professional job if you set the thing in mortar also. That minimizes the risk of stress cracks in the floor over the years. Don't want to have to rip the thing out and replace it because of cracks.
If my memory serves me, I believe the Moen posi-temp single lever (or knob) mixer valve (for one) does not require backing, and utilizes this aprox. 1/2 inch piece of round plastic, that is larger than the size of the hole saw size hole you cut out for the mixer, that when you tighten the chrome trim plate at job completion, it causes everything to tighten up solid.
It is the kind of mixer valve that you have to pull out on and push in, to get water flow, where i believe it is more essential that the mixer valve/pipes get secured , otherwise you will cause the shower stall in that area to flex in and out, when you pull in and out on the knob...*especially* if the valve gets stiff on you in the future. I have seen some this way, unsupported, where I am afraid of cracking the fiberglass when I pull out on the knob...so I end up holding the shower stall in with my left hand, while I pull out on the knob with my right hand.
