Leaky shower head


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Old 01-19-08, 01:38 PM
J
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Leaky shower head

Shower head constantly drips. Last year we had to replace our water pipes to the main water line because of a cracked pipe which was bringing in air and dirt. We think some dirt particles got into the cartridge seals in the volume control side. With suggestions from the Home Depot guy, removed the handle and bonnet but could not get the cartridge out. It is covered by a chrome sleeve that would not turn or pull out. It's a Delta 2-handle model 2300 series. Any suggestions? Should the cartridge be replaced (if I can get it out)?
 
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Old 01-19-08, 08:05 PM
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I'm trying to visualize your set up. When you say two handle, are you referring to a temp control handle and a volume control handle. one above the other. If so, the ring (chrome or brass) unscrews to get to the cartridge. Try giving it a few good raps with a hammer - back it up on the opposite side with a block of wood. A few times around the ring and it should unscrew either by hand or with a large pliers.
One Caution. Don''t attempt too much force with the pliers. Try re rapping the ring. Reason is some older Delta valve bodies had small copper pipes soldered in them. Too much force and they break causing a major leak and repair. Been there - done that.
 
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Old 01-20-08, 03:13 PM
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I'm not clear on your setup. Goldstar asked a good question there.

Generally speaking, I would try using pliers. I would wrap the teeth part in masking tape so you won't leave tool marks on your fixtures. Failing that, maybe an adjustable wrench with tape.

Here's what I found, specific to your Delta, I couldn't find the 2300 on www.deltafaucet.com. I went to the "Customer support page" then "Visit repair parts,..." then selected "Tub or Shower" and clicked Go. It said to try this and had a neat diagram:

* Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

* Replace Ball Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handes or RP212 for knob handles)

If a steady stream of water is running from both the tub spout and the shower head:

* If this is a new installation , there may be an installation problem
* If this is not a new installation, the problem may be in the push button diverter. Remove and check diverter for debris. Clean as needed. It may need to be replaced (#6 in diagram - Repair part RP5649)

The below should be a direct link to the diagram:

http://http://www.deltafaucet.com/wp...r+faucet+leaks

The odd thing is that the above diagram doesn't show two handles! Hope this helps.
 
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Old 01-21-08, 10:21 AM
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Okay I'm sorry I didn't want to be too wordy in the initial post. The set up is, like you said, one side volume control (left) and the other is temperature (right). After taking off the polished brass trim pieces and the escutcheon off the left side there is a heavy chrome sleeve covering with just about an inch sticking out at the end, which is the plastic extender/stem assembly. The chrome sleeve would not turn or pull out. "Rapping it a few times with a hammer" as you suggested might not be a good choice since we can't get behind it with a block of wood. Will wrap it and try again to turn with pliers. Is there any chance it could be soldered to something behind the wall?

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 01-21-08, 10:24 AM
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PS to last post:

Did go on Delta web site and would like to replace the seats/springs if only I could get to it. Thanks again!
 
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Old 01-21-08, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by janem View Post
Is there any chance it could be soldered to something behind the wall?
Possible. The other method is that you have to use a deep-socket and ratchet wrench inside that chrome sleeve. As I'm not a plumber, you may want to call Delta. 1-800-345-DELTA (3358) and see what they have to say. It's supposed to be a 24 hour line.
 
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Old 01-21-08, 07:44 PM
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Look at it head on, as though it were a clock face. Hold the block against the ring at the 7 o'clock position and rap the ring at the 1 o'clock position. Work your way around the ring that way and see if it loosens up the ring. Stay 180 degrees apart between the block and hammer. The reason for the block is that the fixture will absorb the impact and rapping will do no good. The block concentrates the force on the ring.
 
 

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