Wax ring for uneven floor


  #1  
Old 05-08-08, 04:39 PM
Home wrecker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 390
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Question Wax ring for uneven floor

I have an old farm house. The bathroom floor has a dip on the back left corner. The flange is level with the floor except in that spot. The toilet always sat good and solid before.
I had to change the spud gasket between the tank and bowl. To get at it I had to remove the toilet. Why? Because I couldn't get the old bolts to free up to remove and I had to cut them off with a hack saw. It was easier to pull the toilet and tip it over to do that. I knew I needed a new wax ring to reset it. The guy at the hardware store told me I should use the fluidmaster 35B bowl gasket wax extender kit. The extra thick one because the flange was uneven. I put it on the flange instead of the toilet itself. (Every time I picked up the toilet to set it the dang thing fell off). I pressed it down using full body weight like it said then tightened the bolts. Now I have a slight rock side to side. Did I screw it up by not putting it on the toilet, or is this some other issue??? I have plenty of wax, in fact it is oozing out the bolt holes. I'm afraid if I tighten it too much I'll crack the porcelain.

I read the sticky FAQ Wax Ring Seal Broken?
Pull and reset toilet, make sure toilet sits even on floor, shim where needed.
How do I shim a toilet????
 
  #2  
Old 05-08-08, 05:22 PM
plumbingods's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manch-vegas, New Hampshire
Posts: 2,180
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi

As long as the flange was not broken and is properly anchored then I was going to recommend shimming the toilet also. Of coarse there is always the alternative, repair the floor.

Shimming the floor can be done with most anything that will not rot. The plumbing stores around my area now carry a soft plastic shim just for this purpose. I have used washers but not a real good idea. Those 1' square floor tiles can be cut real easy and don't rot. I have used them. Also calking the base will help some, but it must be clean and you need to squeeze it under the toilet.

Hope this helps, Mark
 
  #3  
Old 05-09-08, 06:42 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Just wondering, was this the wax ring with the plastic inside the wax? If the flange is nice and level except for the one corner in the back, then why would you need a thicker ring? I mean, take a glass, slide it out over the edge of the table a bit, it still sits flat and level until it starts to fall off, right? The thicker ring is normally only needed when the flange is a bit too low.

If the toilet sat flat and level before, why wouldn't it now?

I think some shims in the low corner for support is a good idea, but does the toilet sit flat without any wax ring? If it does, I'd say go back to a standard ring, or one without an insert.

Ok, I'm still on my first cup of coffee, so i may be way off here. Gimme some latitude....
 
  #4  
Old 05-09-08, 03:03 PM
plumbingods's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manch-vegas, New Hampshire
Posts: 2,180
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hey there'

The wax ring is not the problem here as some plumbers ONLY use the rings with the plastic insert, or extra wax. Myself, I like to use regular, inserts, or extra wax. Depends on my mood, the job conditions, and sometimes even how much cash I have in my pocket. ALL will work fine. The only one to be careful of is the extra wax w/ no insert, because wax could squeeze into the drain hole causing a partial obstruction.

I still say shim the toilet, or better yet, repair the floor.
 
  #5  
Old 05-09-08, 04:47 PM
Home wrecker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 390
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
This has a plastic insert. To shim the floor wouldn't I have to pull the whole floor up???
The flange and pipe are supported by the beams. There isn't any plywood under the flange like there should be. When I pulled the toilet up, the rim around the flange was packed with wax though.
If I shim the toilet where exactly do I place the shim?? I had planned on running a ring of caulk around the outer edge anyway. I think it gives it better protection. That way water can't seep up under the bowl when the floor gets mopped.
 
  #6  
Old 05-09-08, 05:16 PM
C
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,946
Received 136 Votes on 109 Posts
Put a level on the bowl (not the tank. With the toilet held level just fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor with shim until it doesn't rock. I use plastic shims a couple of inches wide. I cut them from whatever is handy - Tupperware is a good choice. Wood rots and metal might rust.

If the flange is level a regular wax ring should be all you need.

I don't like caulking around a toilet. If the seal leaks you won't know it and the floor around the toilet might rot. If you do caulk it leave a weep hole at the lowest spot.
 
  #7  
Old 05-09-08, 05:39 PM
Home wrecker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 390
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks, I guess I only thought about water getting under it from outside and rotting the floor. What hides the fact that you shimmed the toilet??? I thought you were supposed to put a rim of caulk around it??? What you said makes perfect sense though.
Does the shim come out to the edge of that rim, or does the shim hide under the bowl?
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: