problem getting new cone washer around supply tube and inside of coupling nut.


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Old 06-08-08, 11:28 AM
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Red face problem getting new cone washer around supply tube and inside of coupling nut.

Does anybody have any advice on how to get the washer inside the coupling nut and around the supply tube? I am replacing the inside of the toilet tank and I can follow the instructions fine that came with the set. I had a little trouble getting the old cone washer out cause it was in bad shape. The coupling nut does not seem to be able to come off the supply tube without cutting it off and replacing it. Will I have to do that? Is the supply tube joined by an transition fitting or some type of adapter to the coupling nut? I also wonder if the fitting or adapter is glued when it was installed. I could only get the washer down inside about halfway of where it seemed to supposed to be. I ended up tearing the washer up trying to jam it down in there with the blunt end of a pliers handle. Is there a better way to do it? How do I get the coupling nut off the supply tube because I got a new one in the kit. It also looks like I damaged the threads of the coupling nut. I will have to get a new cone washer tomorrow somewhere. I don't want to put the damaged one in there now. Is there anything I also might want to pick up to help me out?
 
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Old 06-08-08, 11:58 AM
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The best thing to use is a stainless steel braid toilet supply line. They did away with using the cones on this design, so you shouldn't have that problem. Now as far as all the damage you did with your pliers, good luck, as it is difficult for us to see what you did.
 
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Old 06-08-08, 12:31 PM
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I totally agree with Chandler on this one.

Braided SS lines are the way to go. You almost cannot screw them up.

I want to the big box store yesterday and I needed 1" of 3/8" copper tube. So I was going to buy a supply tube for cost reasons. They don't even carry them any more.

What is this plumbing world coming to?
 
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Old 06-08-08, 12:40 PM
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Just a note from experience of working there. Many of the "Stainless Steel" braided lines, aren't! They are a silver polyester brade, not true SS. Washing machines I think normally are, but run your fingernail down a sink or closet supply, and tell me what you think.

Way better/easier than the pex or chrome, IMHO, but still not SS.
 
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Old 06-08-08, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunguy45 View Post
Just a note from experience of working there. Many of the "Stainless Steel" braided lines, aren't! They are a silver polyester brade, not true SS. Washing machines I think normally are, but run your fingernail down a sink or closet supply, and tell me what you think.

Way better/easier than the pex or chrome, IMHO, but still not SS.
I work in a real hardware store,an Ace store and the stainless supply lines ARE stainless steel.Also we still carry the old fashioned chrome plated supply lines as well.

Big box mentality will get you big box quality.
 
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Old 06-08-08, 02:08 PM
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Spdavid,
Exactly my point. You can still find them...but many assume that the braided ones are all SS. Gotta check the label sometimes.

Man I used to love going to the real hardware stores w/my Dad when I was a kid. Nails by the pound, scooped out of a barrel. 2" thick wooden plank floors that you could see down thru the cracks. The smell of the feeds and seeds.

Around here even the Aces and True Values are in stripmall stores....our loss.

BTW, used to work at a Box..maybe again, running out of projects since the move out here. The small places aren't hiring.
 
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Old 06-08-08, 06:07 PM
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Mark, with the value of scrap copper at about $3.50 a pound, who'd be able to afford to put it in. I know, you have to do something with your Mapp gas, right???
 
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Old 06-09-08, 10:29 AM
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How do I get the supply line off of the shut off valve? Do I have to get a whole new line? The supply tubes look to be secured on there with interlocking metal clamps that look like finger rings.
 
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Old 06-09-08, 12:56 PM
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Is the valve metal or plastic? If it is plastic what color is it?

Bottom line may be to replace the valve and supply line with a conventional type (metal with compression thread outlet and stainless supply line).That is if the pipe in the wall is threaded.

I don't know of any other way to repair or replace some of those plastic and clamped or crimped on set ups.Maybe some of the plumbers here do.
 
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Old 06-09-08, 01:20 PM
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it is very rare that I come across a valve that coming out of the valve is not compression.

Can you send a picture our way?
 
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Old 06-09-08, 02:30 PM
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I had to replace two toilet valves in a double wide the other day because one leaked, and they didn't want to chance the other one doing the same. They were pex, and secured with crimp rings on both ends of the stop valve. Had to cut it out and replace with new stop valve and nylon compression ring. Can't use the supplied brass one. Just for info.
 
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Old 06-09-08, 02:50 PM
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I forget we are coming into the age of PEX.

I haven't run into it too much around NH yet. We really just started using it big, A few years ago, so until it is time for repairs we won't see too much of it. But I am sure mobile homes and modular homes have been using it for a while.
 
 

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