old Eljer shower valve- how to take apart?


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Old 08-03-08, 11:22 AM
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old Eljer shower valve- how to take apart?

our house was built in '72, all original fixtures still...one of the shower valves only dribbles from the showerhead when pulled out...this shower (in the basement bathroom) hadnt been used in a couple years. (showerhead is not clogged, even bled the water lines/opened valves to prevent popping anything and tried blowing compressed air backwards thru the showerhead stub in case maybe something had clogged the valve- still nothing but a trickle comes out), single screw to take off the handle, two screws takes off the trim ring...theres a brass valve with 'ears' top and bottom(like maybe some kind of split wrench or something can be inserted around the stem?), and a flared chrome sleeve that appears to maybe be pressed on the pull/rotate stem...before I break something, does anyone out there know how it comes apart, AND if repair kits are available for these? unfortunately theres no access, so gotta tear out a wall to update the faucet if parts not available...more worried about the other 2 upstairs with back to back enclosures- will be a bear to fix those if(when) they fail
would rather know how and fix whats there if possible- If parts are unavailable I can probably machine new ones, just need to get it apart...
must be pretty good stuff as this is the only problem in 4 bathrooms, and its all 1972 fixtures, everything else still looks/works like new

I'll see if I can put a picture up later- thanks in advance for any advice!
 
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Old 08-03-08, 03:53 PM
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A picture would definitely help me see if I recognize the valve and how to repair.
 
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Old 08-05-08, 04:58 AM
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just noticed- the trim ring says Moen...sorry thought it was Eljer like everything else in the house...


 
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Old 08-05-08, 06:07 AM
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slide the chrome ring off the stem, Then there is a little brass/copper colored clip on top where that bump in the chrome ring is. Pull the ring straight out. Then grasp the center of the stem with pliers or vice grips and pull straight out. You may need to wiggle it some, and if you already have a new cartridge, there is a tool in the package to help in removing the old cartridge.
 
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Old 08-05-08, 10:28 PM
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thanks- I thought the chrome thing needed pulled off, but its stuck tight and figured best to ask someone before putting a small gearpuller on it and possibly destroying it if it wasnt meant to be removed

cant believe I never noticed the 'moen' name on the trim ring till yesterday...no wonder I couldnt find any Eljer info - Doh!

thanks again!
 
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Old 09-03-08, 06:58 PM
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not Eljer, but Moen- low flow...

well I put the new cartridge in a few weeks ago, (had a detour to some serious plumbing gods...35 yr old wife had a heart attack and double bypass...with a 7 month old son, three bigger sons, and temporary custody of a friends 8 yr old daughter, busy dont even begin to describe it around here...)
Anyway- with the new cartridge, no flow change, just a dribble. Hooked air compressor to the shower stub with cartridge out, only a whiff of air comes thru. the original cartridge was chrome plated, and all the chrome had flaked off inside- like metalflake all thru the valve...next question is: is there any kind of anti-scald valve or strainer on the valve body outlet? I tried fishing a wire thru, cant get past the shower stub(probably a 90 in the wall?) and from inside the valve with cartridge out, san only go into the outlet port about 1/4" and it feels like theres a obstruction right in the middle of the port- wire tries to go to either side, but stops...I really hate the thought of cutting into plaster, but beginning to think might be best just to replace it and get it over with...any thoughts?
 
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Old 09-08-08, 08:44 PM
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is this thing on?

well does anyone out there know if there could be some kind of anti-scald valve or strainer on a single handle Moen shower control? or any advice on possible ways to clear the outlet that dont involve plaster?
 
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Old 09-08-08, 09:40 PM
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I am sorry, but it has gotten busy in here. I am not thinking well right now so I will get back to you in the am, thanks Mark
 
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Old 09-10-08, 03:17 PM
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forgot to mention- with cartridge out turned the pump on and got tons of flow from supply side...figured better mention that before someone suggested it
thanks in advance for any suggestions...thinking about hooking up a high pressure pump and making a o-ringed 'tap' spool to try blowing 2-300 psi thru the center outlet port to see if whatever is in there may be popped free, anyone know what burst pressure is typically for 1/2" sweated copper? worst case the wall may need tore out anyway...
Tim
 
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Old 09-11-08, 06:57 AM
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If you have water without the cartridge in, do you have water or pressure with the cartridge in and the shower head completely removed? Something is not making sense here.
 
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Old 09-11-08, 05:33 PM
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I agree, it dont sound right...plenty of pressure with cartridge out, (showerhead is removed- BTW the strainer inside the shower head looked clean), put the spool in and only get a dribble out the top pipe.
hooked air compressor to pipe stub where the shower head is supposed to mount and tried blowing backwards with the cartridge out, only a whiff of air comes out thru the top port inside the valve body...I just didnt know if there were any kind of 'anti scald' valves in these shower controls or not- the original cartrige was chrome plated and 90% of the chrome was flaked off and it looked like glitter inside the body when I first pulled the cartridge out. I cannot imagine the port(about 1/4") clogging, nor the pipe stub clogging(1/2") but it sure is blocked somehow. the shower hadnt been used at all for likely 20 years or more, kinda a part of the house that became forgotten about since the kids grew up and moved out... really doubt we'll ever use it either, but it just bugs me that I cant tell why it dont work. if theres no anti scalding devices in there(doubt it as 1972 built) only other thing would be rust in the vertical pipe, but hard to imagine a half inch pipe clogging 99% solid...even that is assuming the vertical pipe might be steel, not copper(everything else is sweated 1/2 or 3/4 copper- house even has a recirc on the upstairs hot line that thermosiphons back to the bottom of the water heater- never seen that before, great for 'fast' hot water upstairs, although it probably costs a few bucks in electricity...)

maybe I'll try fishing a different snake thru the top stub again- my brother installs satellite cable stuff has a ton of fancy 'snaking tools' that might get in there or a borescope to take a peek inside...just irritating that a stupid shower valve aint a 5 minute fix, and I really hate knocking holes in perfectly good walls...
 
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Old 09-11-08, 06:25 PM
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That was a great idea, using air backwards through the shower head with the cartridge removed. I can't believe it did not work.

I once went on a no heat, 1 zone, call. All the valves and circulators were working fine. Found there was an obstruction in the un-working zone. I was getting ready to start cutting pipes to find the problem. As a last resort, I decided to take the balancing valve apart. once apart, I found a wise potato chip bag caught on the paddle of the valve. I figure it was 5 years old from when the boiler was installed, and someone was eating lunch. Over the 5 years, it made its way throught the pipes until it finaly got caught on the balancing valve, plugging the line.
So now I believe anything can happen.

Anti scald devices are usually built into the cartridge.
 
 

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