Replaced floor, now toliet won't touch floor
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts


It leaves about 1/2"+ gap between the toilet and the floor. I understand shimming may work, (and I've seen multiple posts suggesting that) but it's allot of space to shim.
Is there a product out there that can help close the gap? (e.g.., cover the whole base of the toilet? Are there other things I could try to fix this?
Thanks,
Jack
#2
Welcome to the forums! Is there a reason the floor is thinner than before? "Thinning" the floor down may cause support problems. The only way I see to make it work, except for adding an additional 1/2" to the flooring, would be to make a "stand"for the toilet out of 3/4" wood and allow the toilet to sit on that. Very unsightly and not a professional solution by any means.
#3
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 974
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
You are telling us that the toilet is sitting on top of the toilet flange approx 1/2" above floor? What's holding up the floor flange?--------can you send us a photo of this...............
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts

Maybe I've misunderstood the flange term. I'm assuming that is the piece that sits on top of the pipe coming up from the floor and used to anchor the bowl to the floor. I'm also assuming the bowl is resting on the "flange" and preventing the rest of the bowl from touching the floor.
In any case, I ripped up a tile floor and put down a peal and stick floor. That is what is causing the height difference.
I was considering putting a piece of plywood, water-proof carpet padding, or something similar and then caulking around it to hide it. Although the padding won't rot, I'm worried about the bowl being "springy".
I'm afraid that may be too much to hide and would look cheesy.
I've also seen posts talking about cutting the pipe but that would be my last resort solution.
Thanks
Jack
In any case, I ripped up a tile floor and put down a peal and stick floor. That is what is causing the height difference.
I was considering putting a piece of plywood, water-proof carpet padding, or something similar and then caulking around it to hide it. Although the padding won't rot, I'm worried about the bowl being "springy".
I'm afraid that may be too much to hide and would look cheesy.
I've also seen posts talking about cutting the pipe but that would be my last resort solution.
Thanks
Jack
#5
No, you are correct on your terms. And the problem is exactly what you thought. The flange was installed for the height of the tile, when you removed that, you lost 1/2" of floor height.
Anything you do (plywood, shims and a big caulk bead, peel and stick caulk strip), is not going to look very Professional.
What is the flange made of? It might not be as hard as you think.
Anything you do (plywood, shims and a big caulk bead, peel and stick caulk strip), is not going to look very Professional.
What is the flange made of? It might not be as hard as you think.
#8
Well, thats prob what a plumber would do. Depending on how it's put in, there are a number of options.
Could you post some clear pic's to a site like photobucket or flicker and link to them. Might be simpler for an expert to advise you then.
Could you post some clear pic's to a site like photobucket or flicker and link to them. Might be simpler for an expert to advise you then.
#9
Toilet floor repair
Sounds like a screw up. I've been there. If you don't want to rip up the floor and do it right and looks are not critical I'd make a raised pad out of self leveling thinset that just the toilet sits on. It would actually be pretty easy to make a form out of putty or something similar when the toilet is in place using it as a template, then remove the toilet, fill the form with the self leveling mortar to desired level and let it set up. You could even paint the sides of it to match the toilet. That way the toilet would have something firm to rest its base on.