supply line connector for kitchen faucet leaking after installing new faucet.

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Old 11-24-08, 09:53 AM
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supply line connector for kitchen faucet leaking after installing new faucet.

I recently had to replace my kitchen faucet, which didn't seem to look like that hard of a task to complete. When I mounted the new faucet and secured it, I got underneath the sink to connect it to the water lines. The lines coming down from the new faucet were about 6 inches shorter than the previous lines from the origional faucet I had in place. I then got some 12 inch water supply lines and installed them after I had put on 2 shut-off valves to the hot and cold water pipes coming up from the bottom of the cabinet. I then put some plumbers tape around the threaded part of the shut off valves. (I wrapped the tape 3 times around each one then pressed it into the threads with my fingers) I then tightened the supply lines to the faucet and then to the shut off valves. When I open the shut-off valves water sprays out of the supply line that connects to the shut-off valves. It is spraying out b/t the supply line and the nut that attached to the shutoff valve. I have tried loosening it as well as tightening it and still get the same result time after time. I don't know if I need to go get another supply line or what exactly needs to be done in order to get it to quit spraying out water when I open the shut-off valves.
 
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Old 11-24-08, 10:15 AM
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If its spraying out at both valves, it sounds like you may have the wrong type of extension lines.

Are they plastic, metal or flexible?

What kind of output connection was on the valve? If it is a compression fitting, you shouldn't need any tape on the threads.

I presume the supply lines from the faucet had 3/8" compression fittings (nuts with a rubber washer inside)? So the ones you added would have had 3/8" female compression ends? What was the other end?
 
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Old 11-24-08, 10:40 AM
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It doesn't spray out at the end connected to the faucet, just the one that connects to the cold and hot water line coming up from the bottom of the cabinet. The supply lines are a flexible rubber type, I had origionally tried the flexible metal type and had the same result. They are the type with a nut that has a rubber piece inside. Maybe me putting the tape on the threads doesn't allow it to get threaded on there enough and that is why they spray out b/t the nut/supply line on the supply line connection to the cold and hot waterline. It's been a very frustrating project that I am about to throw in the towel on and call a licensed plumber for. It just seemed like it shouldn't be that hard according to the people at Home Depot. It probably would not have been but I can seem to get it not to (spray)leak when I open the shut-off valves.
 
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Old 11-24-08, 10:51 AM
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At the nut with the rubber piece that attaches to the valve...is the rubber inside the nut flat, or is it tapered like a cone? Is it a large diameter nut (like around an inch) or about 1/2 inch?

Do you still have the packages that the valves came in and the tags on the supply lines?

If you list the info on them, it might solve everything.

But yeah, like the HD people said, with all the right parts, It shouldn't be that tough.
 
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Old 11-24-08, 10:57 AM
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1/2", tappered is what I bought.

Anderson Barrows
1/2" FIP x 1/2" FIP x 12" Braided PVC Faucet Connector
 
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Old 11-24-08, 11:09 AM
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Ok, thats not ALL the information really, but I'll lay odds that your supply line has a compression nut (straight threads) and washer (flat rubber), and you are trying to put it on a valve with a PIPE thread, which is tapered.

The compression nut will start on the pipe thread, but will never go all the way on and seal, and will cause exactly what you have happening.


Easy way to tell... is the washer inside the nut on the supply line flat?


EDIT...OOPS...I think I misread your info. Sorry must have been in a hurry. Have to get ready to go see inlaws tomorrow..

I'm just thinking of what parts I know the Box stores carry in the plumbing section. Sometimes you have to get crative with valves and hoses, even adapters.
 
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Old 11-24-08, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tmoney23 View Post
1/2", tappered is what I bought.

Anderson Barrows
1/2" FIP x 1/2" FIP x 12" Braided PVC Faucet Connector
Are the valves chrome with a round or oblong shaped handle or a brass valve somewhat similar to the type used to hook your hose to outside or that might be inline on a copper water line etc?

If that size supply line actually fits with no significant amount of play or leeway then I'd try it with no tape and tightened well but no overly and see what happens.

If you're valves were 3/8 comp that line would not fit.Plus the fact that both leak means what you're doing that is the same on both sides is the cause.Sounds like the tape is keeping it from completely seating.

Also if these are brass valve and have been there a long time etc take a good look and make sure they haven't gotten beaten up and the threads aren't good enough to let the lines completely seat.
 
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Old 11-24-08, 12:06 PM
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They are chrome w/ an oblong handle, the valves were 1/2" valves. I will let you know if it works when I remove the tape from the threads. Thanks.
 
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Old 12-23-08, 09:55 AM
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Cool Same issue

Im having the exact same issue with my bathroom sink.
The line that came with the faucet is not standard (I think its 1/2 on the valve end, the end that connects to the faucet is custom). I went to Home Depot and they gave me a 1/2 x 3/8 and the threads didnt line up. I went to Lowes and was given the 3/8 x 3/8 connectors. The washer inside is flat and black and by my accounts the threads are lined up properly. The difference is that there is no leak on the cold line. It only leaks on the hot water line.

Its spraying from the space between the bolt and the line connected to the faucet, the extension line seems fine.
Without the teflon tape, it sprayed worse.

This entire project has been frustrating...I just used silicone to caulk the gap but Im sure thats probably just a temporary fix.

Please help.
 
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Old 12-23-08, 10:16 AM
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If the leak is coming from between the nut and the line at the point where the nut "swivels" or where it can turn to be tightened then that is a problem with either the installed gasket,the fitting itself or both.I'm not sure there is any other fix besides replacing the line completely.All of that is factory assembled etc.

If it is made into the faucet and can not be removed then you may have to pursue warranty replacement etc.

You say it's "custom" so I'm assuming that is the case.If it can be removed it will have a standard sized fitting (1/2 pipe thread) and can be replaced easily.
 
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Old 08-31-09, 05:20 PM
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same problem here, did you ever fix?

I am having the same problem. I replaced three bathroom sinks. First one, no problem (other than the usual issues). Second one, the hot water supply line leaked. At first, just a little, but after a few tries worse and worse. I tried two other supply lines with identical results. The real kicker is that at first the leak is extremely gradual. One drip every 10 or so seconds so I think I am almost all set. I try backing off, tightening, etc. but never get it to stop completely and eventually the leak becomes much worse.

The third sink, same problem except this time the cold water supply line leaked. Same experience. I've tried tape, putty and a few other tricks. The guy at the Ace hardware store said I need a new cone washer and that I am threading it wrong. Also, apparently no one carries the cone washes that fit inside supply lines these days.

I'm about to throw in the towel. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 09-29-12, 08:23 PM
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shut off valves have different threads on them

Hi Most likely you have shut off valves with fine threads, and your faucet has standard course threads. I see this a lot in mobile homes with plastic shut off valves. The ones you purchase at the local home supply store have standard threads on both ends. You will have no problem on your faucet connections , as they are the correct standard thread supply hose ends. On the faucet supply hose ends you also have standard threads on the hoses, which might be wrong for your supply valves. You can't get the right hoses if this is the case. You have to use the plastic supply lines and cut them to fit. On one end of the plastic line you have a fixed bevel washer already attached to the plastic line. You have to slip your compression nut over the end that you cut to the right size. Then install your compression nut over the supply line end. Then twist or push on the metal stop washer and leave about 1/2 inch of line to insert in your supply valve. Slide on your white collar plastic washer and insert it into the supply valve. Tighten by hand, and then 1/4 turn more with pliers. Turn on water you should have no leaks. This job will drive you crazy, if you do not realize you have different threads on the supply valves! You can't get them tight enough to seal without stripping them out. Good luck and always check your old supply line threads at the supply valve end. Thank you! Mr. Bungles.
 
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Old 09-29-12, 08:59 PM
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Thank you Mr bungles. Since this is an old thread I am going to close it. Its ran its course. Please start a new thread for other plumbing issues.
 
 

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