Gasket Between Tank and Toilet


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Old 12-17-08, 01:45 PM
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Gasket Between Tank and Toilet

I'm trying to replace the gasket between my tank and toilet. I have tried 2 different gaskets so far. The first gasket (see Gasket A at the link below) appeared to be working, but I later realized had a slow leak. I bought another gasket (Gasket B). It didn't work at all. Neither gasket looks like the orginal. As the original gasket has been compressed between the tank and toilet for about 15 years, I assumed it was distorted. Is it distorted or is there a gasket available like the original? I also thought about using some plumbers putty or something similar and try Gasket A again as it almost worked. See pictures here Gasket Pictures
 
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Old 12-17-08, 02:21 PM
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Exclamation

Gasket A seems to be the correct gasket. It should slip on the bottom of the tank (hence the octogan shape) and the tapered end should go in the bowl. Usually 3, sometimes 2, bolts, nuts and rubber and flat washers hold the tank together with the bowl. Maybe you didn't tighten enough? Make sure the tank and bowl are level and plumb to one another(the tank is not leaning forward or to one side). Good luck!
 
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Old 12-17-08, 02:28 PM
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I agree with Mike. The gasket A has the indent for the spud nut and will fit over it. Ensure the tank bolts are tight, but not too tight so it breaks the porcelain. I like to buy an extra tank-to-bowl nut and bolt set and install them in this order from the top of the tank: rubber washer, metal washer, bolt through....from underside of tank, rubber washer, metal washer, nut. This makes the tank an independent water tight unit (except for the fill valve). Then when you place it on the bowl all you have to do is install a metal washer and nut to hold it in place. Won't leak at those points due to improper pull down.
 
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Old 12-17-08, 05:10 PM
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Thank you mikeTN and chandler for the responses. I noticed there were extra washers and a pair of hex-nuts with the kit, so I already figured out the part about making the tank its own water-tite unit. Thanks anyway chandler. Prior to figuring that out, I had a leak at the bolts. It's because of the leak at the bolts I had to pull the tank. After pulling the tank and installing the new tank to bowl gasket, my leak is now at the tank to bowl gasket. Does it matter that the octagon on Gasket A is a little bigger than the octagon of the spud nut? What do you guys think about using the putty at the gasket? I did check for plumb and tightened the the bolts to the point the tank and bowl made contact. It was tight and I couldn't go any tighter. Thanks again.

William
 
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Old 12-17-08, 05:21 PM
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I have some Ace plumber's putty. I was going to apply a little around the spud nut and then install the gasket, but it says not to use on plastic. I believe there's another product that's applied with a brush (the putty I have is like play-doh). Is anyone familiar with the brush-on product? Is the brush-on product okay next to or on plastic?

William
 
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Old 12-18-08, 03:48 AM
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Don't apply any putty in that area. The washer is made to do its job and applying a foreign substance will only complicate matters. And, no, it doesn't matter if the indent is larger than the spud nut, as long as you get a good pull down with the tank bolts and the washer fits the concave in the bowl reasonably well. I installed a Kohler yesterday (fool proof install with no through bolts), and I allowed the washer to slightly offset as I inverted the tank for install. Naturally I had a leak, but a flashlight showed my error.
 
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Old 12-18-08, 02:59 PM
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Just to conclude...I picked up another tank-to-toilet gasket very similar in demension to Gasket A. The biggest difference was/is the new gasket was more rubber-like, more pliable. I was able to nearly crank the tank all the way down to the toilet by hand with the wing nuts. I had to use pliers with the other gasket. This one worked great! I don't know if I'm allowed to endorse a particular product, but the brand is Plumb Pak. Bought it at Lowes. Thanks for the help.

William
 
 

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