I have a walkout basement. I left a hose connected to an outside faucet. I started to use the faucet and noticed water on the ground. I felt around the hose connection and there didnt seem to be a leak. I went inside and discovered the carpet was wet. I turned off the water and it doesnt seem to have leaked since then. I am wondering where the leak could be coming from. The water lines are copper. My thoughts were that the faucet itself might have frozen, then when I turned the water off the leak stopped. I am certainly not a plumber and would sure appreciate any help. Thanks!

 

I don't know where you turned the faucet off, but here is one approach:

Turn of the water at the shut-off inside and open the outside faucet. If you have a proper shut-off for an ouside line, there should be a small bleeder on the downstrem side of the shut-off. Open this up to allow any water or melted ice drain out of the tap outside.

Run to you local hardware or big, bad box store and buy a cheap rigid foam insulating boot or protector and put it over the ouside faucet. Any water or melted ice will probably harmlessly drain out. The interior heat os the house will warm the pipes slowly and allow anything to drain outside. - Been throught it before when I trusted a freeze prof faucet and forget to use the indoor shut-off.

When it gets warm, close the outside faucet,, close the bleeder and then open up the inside shut-off and operate the outside faucet. Then watch for any possible leaks from split pipes or bad joints.

Dick

 

Hello

It sounds like you have a frost proof outside faucet. This type of faucet is designed to shut the water off inside the warm area of the basement, etc.
But, when the hose is left on, the water in the pipe going into the home cannot drain out and can freeze and burst.

It sounds like the copper portion of the faucet is split between where the valve shuts it off and the outside and will need a complete replacement. Try to get the length before purchasing if possible to make it easier to replace. Some are threaded in and some are soldered in. Look in the basement where the copper pipe meets the valve to see how to replace it.

When re-installing the new faucet, make sure there is some downward pitch from inside to outside to allow the water remaining in the faucet in the pipe after the valve is shut off to drain out and prevent freezing.

Also, next time, don't forget to remove the hose in time

 

Even though you turned off the faucet and the water stopped, you probably split the tube between the washer and the outside. With the water off, it won't leak, but turn the faucet on, it will leak out the split in the wall. IMO, you are in need of a new frostproof sillsock. Keeping it off for now, it won't leak. Just don't use that faucet until it is replaced.

 

Thank you for the feedback. Not being a plumber, or anything close, are you suggesting that I need to replace the faucet? If the copper line is split I probably should call a plumber. I think I perhaps could remove and replace the faucet, assuming thats the problem. Anymore good advise?

 

If you can access the back of the faucet, which is about 8 - 10" behind your outside wall (through sheetrock, etc.) you can make the change out yourself relatively easy. You need to access that area. If it is covered by sheetrock, go ahead and cut out an area big enough for you to get your hands in it at the height of the faucet. Once exposed you will see where the faucet casing screws into a copper fitting. Just turn off the water to that pipe, whether it is a separate cut off or the whole house, and take the joint apart. Once apart the faucet will remove to the outside of the house, hopefully without you having to cut brick, etc. Take it with you to the store and get an exact replacement, minus the split in the tubing, of course. Replacement is opposite of tear down. Use teflon tape on the joint. As Mark said, make sure the faucet tips downward when you finish installing it. It will probably come with a little nylon wedge. Don't throw it away. It is meant to go on top of the screw flange on the outside of the house to force the installation to be in a downward position.

 

To hook the water line feeding the valve back to the new valve depends on the removal of the old valve. It is most likely soldered on and may take some soldering to make the final connection. Just because you may see threads on the end of the valve, inside the house, does not necessarily mean it is threaded in. Look closely and be careful when removing.
If you are no good with soldering, you may be able to get a 1/2" female x compression adapter and add some pipe to reach where you needed to cut the pipe for removal. Then a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting may be used to complete the connection.

If you can solder, that will be the best way to replace the valve, provided that is the way it was originally removed.

I hope I did not confuse you here. If I did let me know.

 

mark have you ever used the epoxy made for bonding copper pipeing? I used it in my house in several places because I am a lousy solderier and couldn't get several joints to stop leaking, it has been in place for over 17 years and so far no problems.
stan

the only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys

 

Yes there are some pretty good epoxies out there, and they can work well if applied properly, but I am a licensed plumber and try to do things the proper way. I have even been known to re-solder the split pipe when in a jam.

 

Here's an example of what to look for, seen from the basement, taken at a home inspection. The end of the valve is at right, the connection to the frost-resistant bib is hidden just off the left side of the picture.

 

Hope you all can help. I woke up this morning not being able to receive water from my outside faucet. I read around for thawing techniques with the first step being to make sure there are no ruptures. I don't live in a house with a basement and i am unable to view the pipe. What should i do?

 

If you cannot see the pipe, then you will not know whether or not you have a ruptured pipe until it thaws. Use a heat source such as a hair dryer to thaw the faucet. Do not use a flame such as a torch. Be prepared to turn off the water at the main cut off if you discover a leak. Good luck.