toilet drain distance to rear wall?

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Old 01-03-11, 12:32 AM
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toilet drain distance to rear wall?

when my previous plumber was putting in toilet rough in, he said there was a joist was right in middle of location where drain should go (12" from rear wall). so he moved orientation of toilet and placed it 12" from a different wall. (this is a separate toilet room in the bathroom. looking at things now, I think it was mistake because I think there won't be enough room in front of toilet now. the addition is not finished and wondering if I should change it. It won't be easy since drywall is up, but the room below is not painted yet and floor in bathroom is not done yet either. when I reach into the current hole in subfloor for drain, I can feel the joist that was in the way. the far edge of it is 13" from what was supposed to be rear wall. that would put the center of drain at about 15" from FINISHED wall. I guess 12" is standard. so could the toilet have been put here? what would options be to get the toilet closer to the wall? offset flange would have been one option, but I worry those would be more prone to clogging. How far would that have moved flange? other options? just build a surround to hide the space? In retrospect, I would have framed out the space if that what was needed.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 06:30 AM
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This happens a lot with both toilets and bathtubs. You could change the drain and use a 10" rough toilet instead of the 12" or you could cut the joist and box it off like you would do if you were putting in a set of stairs.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 07:19 AM
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Pipe it the 15 " and get a 14" rough toilet. Puts it close to the wall.

Another option is the rear discharge. Pipes in wall and toiler still sits on floor

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 08:07 AM
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thanks. so they make both 10" and 14" rough in toilets? are they more $ and are they easily available or will have to be special ordered? Cutting joist not option. too involved being that I already have drywall below. before to cut hole in subfloor and work from there. and these are wood I joists. pain to cut them and box them in.

one issue that complicates this is fact that the vent is right there. the drain comes from the main drain, there is "y" with the straight part going to toilet drain and the branch off of y is tilt up slightly and that goes past drain and then turns up wall behind new toilet location. so the problem is getting things spread apart to get new pieces in? with copper I think it would be easier-just heat up pull apart, redo it and resolder. with pvc have to cut out old pieces and then will need to pull open to get new in? any ideas?
 
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Old 01-03-11, 08:18 AM
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Could you take pics? Is your pipeing PVC or copper? What happened to your plumber? If you knew what he was doing he would of known about different rough toilets. Get him back to pipe correctly. Its his fault not yours.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 10:36 AM
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PVC piping. will try to get some pics. plumber was not good. after we had carefully planned things out and I told him where he could cut the I joists (there are detailed do's and don'ts with cutting them) he went and started cutting holes in prohibited area. luckily I caught him after he cut first one and there was wall below that I could make weight bearing. if I had not caught him, he would have cut about 8 of them that way and I don't know what I would have done then. anyway, he eventually just stopped showing up and i had to get someone else to come in to finish.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 01:24 PM
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here is a drawing I made of plumbing. Note that it initially failed due to a improper vent (dry vent?). The second plumber rolled the vent into the toilet drain after OK'ing it with inspector.



here are some photos. you can see the drain and supply on the right, as well as the vent in the wall. on the one photo, I put a roll of tape over the area where toilet was to be put, but that is right on top of joist. so the center of drain has to come out 3" to 15" from rear wall (note these are wood I joists and the flange is wider than the normal 1 1/2 joist). I was thinking cutting out subfloor and let plumber work from the bathroom. rather do that than cut drywall on ceiling below. could cut drywall where vent is located if needed as well.



 
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Old 01-03-11, 01:52 PM
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Looks good. You look like you will have plenty of room for you legs. I think you may be getting ahead of yourself. You need to put marks on the floor where the fixtures are going. You can get a better idea of your space. Plus they have space saving toilets also that have a smaller footprint for small bathrooms. You have alot of choices.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 01:58 PM
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that water closet room is 47" left to right, with the toilet current sitting against that wall on the right. I went to my other bathroom and put up a "wall" at 48". I sat on the toilet, which I believe is standard 12" rough in. it is unnatural for me to sit down and stand up. I am 6'2" tall. my wife had no issues. when you sit down, the wall is pretty in your face. if this were 3rd bath in basement I would certainly let it go, but considering this is new master suite with separate water closet room, just seems cramped to me.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 02:32 PM
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Wll whats going in front of the toilet? Vanity. How wide is the room the otherway? Take more pics of the whole room.

Here is a toilet you would want. 28 " from wall to front of bowl.

http://www.americanstandard-us.com/a...Sheet_1626.pdf

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 03:22 PM
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well just checked and the toilet that I used for my "test" was also 28" from wall to front of toilet. so no better.

the room measures 78"x 47". it is like rectangle with one corner cut off at about 45degree angle. on that angled wall is where the door is to go. the toilet was to go with back against the 47" wall facing kinda toward the angled wall.

pic from outside of water closet looking through the doorway. you can see the rough in on right side.


pic from inside water closet facing toward wall where toilet was supposed to go. door is on the left not visible


pic from sitting in location where toilet was supposed to go-as if you were sitting on toilet.


taken from toilet but showing the doorway and the angle-near where switches will be.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 04:32 PM
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Plenty of room. The vanity going to the right of the walk in? Mark 28" off the wall and pretend your sitting. Take a pic with the mark on the floor then measure whats left to the opposing wall.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 04:56 PM
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no real vanity going in here, at least not one with sink. this is just toilet room. maybe put some kind of furniture in here just to put toilet paper and maybe other stuff from bathroom that is not used all the time. no need to put a mark and measure. the room is 47" that way. so 47-28 leaves 19" from front of toilet to wall in front of you. take a chair and put something 19" in front of it and have someone hold it there. Now sit down in chair and stand up as you would when you are pulling down and pulling up pants. You are bent much more forward when doing this than just sitting in normal chair. my head hits unless I alter my movement. Like I said, if this were in small bathroom somewhere else in house probably wouldn't be issue. But in large new addition with master suite and separate water closet that is the one that I, being 6'2", will be using, it just seems very tight given the room is 78" the other way and was designed to have toilet facing other direction.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 06:11 PM
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OK I see this is master and a private head. I was wondering why no vanity. LOL That room is as big as my downstairs bath with tub, vanity and toilet.. I did not know what you were complaining about. Looked way big. To me I can probably do the Salsa, or Zumba in that space. Line dancing anyone.

Ok take the plywood up and move that toilet ell center and right up to the floor joist.

How many inches from that wall to center of toilet ell?????

Get a 14" rough toilet. If your center is 15" not too bad. Gap will be 1" from tank to wall. Not horrible. If really far furring strip the wall an inch.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-03-11, 07:43 PM
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How many inches from that wall to center of toilet ell?????

not sure what wall you mean and if you mean current location of ell or the proposed new location? currently the center of ell is 12" from wall to right as you stand near door and look in. to move it to rear wall it will have to go about 4" back closer to the rear wall where it will then hit joist(which will put center 15" from rear wall) and will need to move it to left about 11" to put it in center of that rear wall (currently 12" from right wall with room being 47" so need to move it to 23.5 from right wall)

think this can be down just by removing subfloor, or given that vent there in that wall to right (right in photos, but left in drawings) , think that wall will have to be exposed to give room to get everything back together?

yeah, my downstairs bath is only slightly bigger and has clawfoot tub, pedestal sink and toilet. OK for that location but expect a little better for master bath.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 08:44 PM
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1)Yes remove subfloor.
2) Move toilet to 4" back closer to back wall and right up to floor joist, and move it the 11" more for center or the 23.5" you describe off the right wall .
3) A 14" rough toilet will work fine in your application. You will have a 1" bigger gap from wall to tank. As thick as your thumb. I could live with that and no one will even know.
4) I need to see the vent before I could determain how to cut and pipe. If its in the same chase all will be extended and possibly a couple of 22 degree fittings.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-04-11, 05:57 AM
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Okay seeing where your vent ties in gives a clearer picture. I'd go with the 14" rough toilet and call it a day. Trying to match the angle up with 22 degree angles is an option but can be a disaster. You don't have a lot of pipe to work with and trying to glue everything together and make it fit is not as easy as it sounds. One other thing is to keep the hole in the subfloor as close to the pipe as possible. If not you'll end up with a space around the pipe and you won't be able to screw the flange down.
 
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Old 01-26-11, 11:42 AM
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OK, plumber came and move pipes yesterday. I cut out floor for him and took picture after he was done. toilet now pretty close to center of walls (left to right in picture) and nearly touching joist behind. it is just over 15" from center of drain to drywall. one concern I have is the fall of drain. from the "Y" downstream is fine. but looks like when he put on the 22.5 fitting next to "Y" he didn't place it quite right. so from the 90 elbow that toilet will sit on to the "Y" is not falling. when I dumped water down there, a little bit sat in the bottom of the 90 elbow and the short 2" piece of pipe before the "Y". is this gonna be a big issue with blockage?? I sure hope not since it took me three weeks to get him out to do this and hate to have to call him back to redo it!

 
 

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