drip drip drip from toilet tank
#1
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drip drip drip from toilet tank
I had to remove my toilet to replace the flange. When I put it back together there is a consistent slow drip at the plastic nut right on the bottom of the tank, not the supply line nut.
See the picture. It's pretty tight....more than just hand-tight, I used a wrench to get some movement. I'm cautious about overtightening because I don't want to crack the tank. The Kohler tank came with the valve kit. Is there a better nut I can use to stop this leak? Something better than a plastic nut.
For grins I emptied the tank and removed the valve. There aren't any cracks on the washer at the bottom of the valve.
See picture of valve.
I pieced it all back together and I still get the drip. It didn't do this when I installed the toilet a couple weeks ago.
Thoughts?
See the picture. It's pretty tight....more than just hand-tight, I used a wrench to get some movement. I'm cautious about overtightening because I don't want to crack the tank. The Kohler tank came with the valve kit. Is there a better nut I can use to stop this leak? Something better than a plastic nut.
For grins I emptied the tank and removed the valve. There aren't any cracks on the washer at the bottom of the valve.
See picture of valve.
I pieced it all back together and I still get the drip. It didn't do this when I installed the toilet a couple weeks ago.
Thoughts?
#2
The washer is the cause. Did you install it correctly. Flateside goes up on the fill valve. The beveled end down into the tank.
You could have a piece of debris under the washer.
I have seen hair line cracks there. Not common though.
Could it be leaking from a tank bolt and working its way over?
Mike NJ
You could have a piece of debris under the washer.
I have seen hair line cracks there. Not common though.
Could it be leaking from a tank bolt and working its way over?
Mike NJ
#3
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The fill valve was already put together as one unit. The threaded stem goes right into the hole at the bottom of the tank. I believe the washer on the fill valve was flat and not beveled (again that was already attached).
I confirmed that no water is coming from the tank bolts. There is a ring of water around the top nut. It forms a bead then drips. No cracks as well.
I wonder if a different type of nut would stop the drip or if there is an additional washer that should be used?
I confirmed that no water is coming from the tank bolts. There is a ring of water around the top nut. It forms a bead then drips. No cracks as well.
I wonder if a different type of nut would stop the drip or if there is an additional washer that should be used?
#5
Crud...mis read and had to delete. Take the supply line off and pour a couple of gallons into the tank while holding the float up. If it leaks.. the washer for the valve body isn't right...if it doesn't, its the beveled washer for the supply line.
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Take the supply line off and pour a couple of gallons into the tank while holding the float up. If it leaks.. the washer for the valve body isn't right...if it doesn't, its the beveled washer for the supply line.
The only thing different between now and when I installed the toilet the other week is that there is a slight tilt to the left. The tank is not 'perfectly' level. Would this have anything to do with a drip?
#7
Is it leaking around the outside of the lower nut or through the pipe? A new washer kit is only a couple of bucks (if that). Try tightening the nut a 1/4 turn or so. If it has a real problem call the company.
Problem with those hard rubber washers is they can take a set and not seal well on the second use.
Problem with those hard rubber washers is they can take a set and not seal well on the second use.
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When the supply line is off, water is beading up on the outside of the nut that is attached to the bottom of the tank. When the supply line is connected it appears water comes through the pipe and the outside of the top nut.
When I turn the supply nut, the entire fluidmaster valve turns inside the tank. I guess this tells me that the supply nut doesn't have anymore threads to go through and that its on as tight as can be?
When I turn the supply nut, the entire fluidmaster valve turns inside the tank. I guess this tells me that the supply nut doesn't have anymore threads to go through and that its on as tight as can be?
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The Fluid Master is Spinning?
If the fluid master is spinning it sounds like it is not tightening up ... is the nut cross threaded?
You said the tank is leaning left, I am sure you have been watching it pretty closely, but are you sure the water isn't traveling to this area from one of the other gaskets?
I like to use a paper towel. Stuff a paper towel under the side of the tank where it meets the bowl to see if the water is coming from one of the other gasekts.
If the threads of the fill valve are damaged and preventing you from compressing the gasket you are more than likely going to be replacing the fill valve. Based on the shape of the tank and the handle I would say it is a wellworth tank. I would call Kohler at 1-800-4-Kohler, they may send you out the parts its worth a shot...if the tank is a 4436 the replacement part you need is GP1083167 and has a price of $19.99.
Good Luck.
Dougie
You said the tank is leaning left, I am sure you have been watching it pretty closely, but are you sure the water isn't traveling to this area from one of the other gaskets?
I like to use a paper towel. Stuff a paper towel under the side of the tank where it meets the bowl to see if the water is coming from one of the other gasekts.
If the threads of the fill valve are damaged and preventing you from compressing the gasket you are more than likely going to be replacing the fill valve. Based on the shape of the tank and the handle I would say it is a wellworth tank. I would call Kohler at 1-800-4-Kohler, they may send you out the parts its worth a shot...if the tank is a 4436 the replacement part you need is GP1083167 and has a price of $19.99.
Good Luck.
Dougie
Last edited by Shadeladie; 02-24-11 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising not allowed.
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If the fluid master is spinning it sounds like it is not tightening up ... is the nut cross threaded?
Should not turn. Somethings wrong. Did you strip the threadson the fluid master?
I don't think the threads were stripped.
I'll plan on buying a new fluid master. If I still have troubles I'll post a short video. That way you can coach me through this better.
Thanks for the advice.
#12
From reading your last post I think its just not tight enough. Could be wrong but once snug I have had them turn also. To compensate I either hold the valve and snug it good, or you need to be quick with the nut in turning it so the washer gets grip and holds the fill valve. Plus I turn the valve back CW before tightening so when I tighten the nut I know the valve will move CCW some.
Hope that helps.
Mike NJ
Hope that helps.
Mike NJ
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I planned on working on this today (Sunday), but guess what happened?
The leak stopped and I didn't do anything between now and my last post.
Strange happenings...
The leak stopped and I didn't do anything between now and my last post.
Strange happenings...