installed sinks. both seem to have very slight (a drop or two after several minutes of running)leak. on bottom of bowl there is rubber cone type washer with steel washer underneath and then nut below. the seal between sink and rubber washer does not leak. the water comes between the drain body and the nut and sometimes between the nut and metal washer. so, I guess the problem is the seal between the rubber washer and the threads of the drain body. I assume that as you tighten the nut, the rubber should get compressed and fill the threads? I am afraid to tighten it anymore as there are warnings everywhere saying hand tight and then 1/2 or 3/4 turns. it is already tighter than that. I did not put thread tape on the valve body. should i have? to seal the area where it is leaking, I would have had to really build it up with several layers. and if I did that, the nut may not go on so I would have to mark nut location, then put tape above that mark to seal between the rubber washer and threads. should i take apart and do that? I have had very small leaks like this stop on their own after awhile. should i just see if it stops? the water just runs down the tailpiece and then sits in the joint between the metal tailpiece and the pvc tailpiece extension. there is a little recess there (bottom is plastic compression washer, outsideboundry is the plastic nut and inside boundry is the metal tailpiece) it never leaks enough to drip past that onto the floor of cabinet.

 

If you are talking about the drain that goes thru the sink you will have to take it off and reseal; you are talking about the one that should have putty on the top?

>>>I assume that as you tighten the nut, the rubber should get compressed and fill the threads?

 

the seal between the flange on top side of sink and the sink is sealed. as per delta instructions I used silicon instead of putty. I put stopper down and left water in sink overnight and no leak. so that is fine. something has to provide some kind of seal between threads on the bottomside of drain body and the rubber washer? water flows outside of the main path of drain water through the holes in the flange (that let the overflow path enter into the drain) so once in this location and in contact with the threads of drain body, water is just getting down between the rubber washer and these threads and once below rubber washer then goes down past steel washer and from there easily goes outward between washer and nut, or goes down between nut and threads and comes out below nut. I can make drawing if needed but figured the setup is probably the sameor very similar, in all drains? maybe plumbers putty on these threads above the nut?

 

just scanned in instructions and was able to mark it up showing what I am talking about.



note that leak is not coming between rubber washer and sink. that area is dry.

 

The proper way is to use putty under the pop up. I know people use silicone but putty has been used for years with no issues.

As far as the bottom threaded part, with the nut and cone washer all the way down, you apply teflon paste around the threads and cone washer. That with putty you will never have a leak.

If you used tape its wrong. If the silicone was not done properly it will leak regardless how tight you make the nut on the bottom.

Most plumbers do not do it this way and always wonder why they get a call back in a few days for leaks.

Mike NJ

 

no leak up top. even if did have leak up top, it would just not hold water when stopper down, but wouldn't leak out anywhere. would just leak down below where overflow goes to and then would go down drain-correct?

didn't use any tape on the threads except on tailpiece. that is only place that instructions said to put it and no mention about the paste. I guess should've asked here before put them together but figured I could follow the instructions easily enough. maybe have to take back apart. should call delta and tell them where leak is and their instructions are lacking some details.

 

It would leak down out through the threads underneath. Its leaking there because of the silicone. I could almost garantee it.

Where it says leak in your pic and its circled is where you put teflon paste. Also ontop of the black cone washer. Unscrew the nut some before you do this. Use putty on the strainer.

Cheap plastic strainer???? I always throw them out and put a metal strainer in.

Instructions are not going to tell you what plumbers will tell you. Plumbers know what works because they do not want call backs. I have yet to see a homeowner install a pop up with out it leaking.

I tried those little rubber things that come with some new pop ups so you dont use putty. What a joke. They make it leak worse. I have seen all types of pop ups that come with these home store faucets, and like I said I toss them. Some of the faucets should be tossed also.

Just my two cents hammerish. I know you had the toilet issue a while back and you may not have liked my advice, but I am just telling you like it is.

I went to the home store to buy a 1/4" angle stop with 1/2 sweat. They dont have angle stop sweat fittings... Could you believe it??? I was so mad. They have all this stuff for the homeowner to try to alow them to plug and play, but in my opinion they are selling more and more garbage that is made overseas.

Garbage I tell you. What is America coming too?????

OK I am going to relax now.


Mike NJ

 

not plastic strainer (what they call flange). it is metal. underneath it is where I put the silicone. that is NOT leaking cause I put a little water in sink with stopper down and left it overnight. only used a little so if there was leak, it would likely all leak out. came next day and it still had the water in it and there wasn't any water underneath anywhere. even with the flange/strainer sealed, water can still leak where mine is leaking cause as i said, the overflow gets down to those threads and a small amount of normal drain water can get through those holes in flange and get to those threads. I actually first discovered the leak by testing the overflow. it leaked much more during this test than simply running faucet.

know what you mean about the big box stores. I get a lot of things there, but go elsewhere for certain items. these faucets are delta from a plumbing supply house, not from big box. I have heard that the models that big box has is not the same quality? for electric too i get lot at big box, but sometimes go to electric supply house for items that big box doesn't have.

not sure what advice you say i didn't like? was the plaster your advice? I did use that and liked it alot. it just wouldn't work in my case without modification to support bowl until plaster set. i used washers for this. I just think that 1/4" slope is unacceptable on new toilet. you gotta understand me, I am slow but meticulous and do good work maybe would do it in my basement where you can't really see bottom of toilet unless you are on your hands and knees in bathroom. but in my master bath with separate toilet room where you can see toilet bottom from 5+ft away and you are looking at the filled gap-just not pretty site and not the kind of work I do.