Where To Find Toilet Water Supply Line With A Brass Nut For The Flusher Valve
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Where To Find Toilet Water Supply Line With A Brass Nut For The Flusher Valve
Where can I find a toilet water supply line with a brass (metal) nut for the flusher valve end?
I have looked everywhere for a metal fitting on both ends and all I can find is a plastic (or nylon) nut for the connection to the flusher valve underneath the toilet.
I have looked everywhere for a metal fitting on both ends and all I can find is a plastic (or nylon) nut for the connection to the flusher valve underneath the toilet.
#3
They are pretty common. You just need to know what its called.
Buy "Ace" Ballock Coupling Nut Brass at BuyHardwareSupplies.com
Also I believe they come with the all brass fill valves.
Mike NJ
Buy "Ace" Ballock Coupling Nut Brass at BuyHardwareSupplies.com
Also I believe they come with the all brass fill valves.
Mike NJ
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
They are pretty common. You just need to know what its called.
Buy "Ace" Ballock Coupling Nut Brass at BuyHardwareSupplies.com
Also I believe they come with the all brass fill valves.
Mike NJ
Buy "Ace" Ballock Coupling Nut Brass at BuyHardwareSupplies.com
Also I believe they come with the all brass fill valves.
Mike NJ
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
We've had two neighbors in the past year that have had flooded houses due to the plastic nut splitting while they were away...causing many tens of thousands of dollars of damage.
My guess is that the nut was over-tightened, but still...ya never know.
I've heard that the Watts FloodSafe supply lines (with the automatic cut-off) are not recommended because the fittings are inferior, which can actually cause the [flooding] problem that I'm trying to prevent. Also, I've heard that they are prone to malfunction if the water is turned off and back on - requiring them to be taken off and re-set.
I like the looks of the Fluidmaster supply lines with the torque limiting nut (where it cannot be over-tightened). But I don't know if they've been on the market long enough to be 'proven'.
My guess is that the nut was over-tightened, but still...ya never know.
I've heard that the Watts FloodSafe supply lines (with the automatic cut-off) are not recommended because the fittings are inferior, which can actually cause the [flooding] problem that I'm trying to prevent. Also, I've heard that they are prone to malfunction if the water is turned off and back on - requiring them to be taken off and re-set.
I like the looks of the Fluidmaster supply lines with the torque limiting nut (where it cannot be over-tightened). But I don't know if they've been on the market long enough to be 'proven'.
Last edited by paperchase; 10-01-11 at 09:40 PM.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Mike, I really much prefer a flexible line. Is there a brass nut option for a flexible line?
#8
I suspect that you don't know the answer to this question but I will ask; did any of the failed connections have Teflon tape on the threads of the toilet fill valve? If they did, then that was probably the reason for the failure.
Those connections seal with the washer in the flexible hose and using Teflon on the external threads allows the nut to be way overtightened. Teflon should ONLY be used on tapered pipe threads where the taper, and not some style of gasket is the means of sealing.
Those connections seal with the washer in the flexible hose and using Teflon on the external threads allows the nut to be way overtightened. Teflon should ONLY be used on tapered pipe threads where the taper, and not some style of gasket is the means of sealing.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I suspect that you don't know the answer to this question but I will ask; did any of the failed connections have Teflon tape on the threads of the toilet fill valve? If they did, then that was probably the reason for the failure.
Those connections seal with the washer in the flexible hose and using Teflon on the external threads allows the nut to be way overtightened. Teflon should ONLY be used on tapered pipe threads where the taper, and not some style of gasket is the means of sealing.
Those connections seal with the washer in the flexible hose and using Teflon on the external threads allows the nut to be way overtightened. Teflon should ONLY be used on tapered pipe threads where the taper, and not some style of gasket is the means of sealing.
I can pretty much say for sure that no Teflon tape was used on the threading. I think the reason for the failures was because the nuts may have been over-tightened or the plastic nut was inferior in some way (hardness, thickness, etc.) and just split. The plumber that did all the new plumbing construction work (plumbing, fixtures, etc.) was experienced and he did well over 100 townhouses in the community during a three year timetable.
Scary stuff! Lots of damage... What a total mess... Glad they have insurance. It's be 2-3 months before the people can move back into their house they say because of all the work that is needed. I just want to do whatever I can to prevent it happening to me.
Gives me the skin-crawling creeps just thinking about all that damage and mess!

#10
There are a lot of experienced "plumbers", some are even licensed as master plumbers, that use Teflon or some kind of goo on all threaded connections. We mentioned a well-known television "plumber" in a different thread and I have seen this man use Teflon or goo on many threaded connections that made the seal in a manner not requiring any additional sealing methods.
It IS possible that a bad batch of toilet connectors made it out of the factory or it is possible that for cost reasons an inferior product was chosen.. I only use the connectors with the woven stainless steel covers and not the ones that are all plastic hose. The nut at the toilet fill valve needs to be only tight enough to not leak, often just hand tight or just a touch more.
It IS possible that a bad batch of toilet connectors made it out of the factory or it is possible that for cost reasons an inferior product was chosen.. I only use the connectors with the woven stainless steel covers and not the ones that are all plastic hose. The nut at the toilet fill valve needs to be only tight enough to not leak, often just hand tight or just a touch more.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Can you refer me to a site (link) that has quality woven stainless-steel flexible water supply lines for toilets with metal nuts on both ends? I cannot find them anywhere... Thanks!
#13
Universal TM812 Stainless Steel Toilet Supply Line 12" | Kully Supply
They should have them in the home stores. But here is any example.
Just type stainless steel toilet supply in your web browser.
Mike NJ
They should have them in the home stores. But here is any example.
Just type stainless steel toilet supply in your web browser.
Mike NJ
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Universal TM812 Stainless Steel Toilet Supply Line 12" | Kully Supply
They should have them in the home stores. But here is any example.
Just type stainless steel toilet supply in your web browser.
Mike NJ
They should have them in the home stores. But here is any example.
Just type stainless steel toilet supply in your web browser.
Mike NJ

Thank you Mike!


I just ordered them online from Kully Supply so I can change my existing 'plastic nut' water supply lines out on my toilets.

#15
Great. Glad I can help.
And you know, I found a site about the plastic nuts breaking. I cant find it now. It was a Canadian blogg or forum.
I am a little worried myself. Going to the home store to get some cement so I will see if they have the metal. I know you arders, but possibly others may want to change thiers.
I might change mine now.
Mike NJ
And you know, I found a site about the plastic nuts breaking. I cant find it now. It was a Canadian blogg or forum.
I am a little worried myself. Going to the home store to get some cement so I will see if they have the metal. I know you arders, but possibly others may want to change thiers.
I might change mine now.
Mike NJ
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Great. Glad I can help.
And you know, I found a site about the plastic nuts breaking. I cant find it now. It was a Canadian blogg or forum.
I am a little worried myself. Going to the home store to get some cement so I will see if they have the metal. I know you arders, but possibly others may want to change thiers.
I might change mine now.
Mike NJ
And you know, I found a site about the plastic nuts breaking. I cant find it now. It was a Canadian blogg or forum.
I am a little worried myself. Going to the home store to get some cement so I will see if they have the metal. I know you arders, but possibly others may want to change thiers.
I might change mine now.
Mike NJ
I went to Home Depot and Lowes and could not find a toilet water supply line with metal nuts on both ends...except for the Watts FloodSafe line, which has a reputation for the [inferior] fitting connections coming apart as well as the cutoff being too sensitive and needing to be reset all the time. I did not try any plumbing distributors in my area.
I'll be a happy camper when the ones I ordered from Kully Supply arrive and I get them changed-out.
Thanks again.
PS - I'll look for the Canadian blog/forum where you found people talking about the split plastic nuts. (You should be able to find the link in your History, which would be helpful...)
It's not a blog/forum, but I found this: Pat Foran on faulty toilet hoses causing destruction - CTV News
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Read these:
Watts Floodsafe? Not Very! part1
Watts FloodSafe Auto-ShutOff Connector Review – DO NOT USE | Mythos & Rini
http://cityplumbingandelectric.com/E...Aug%202011.doc
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I have found another toilet water supply line with brass nuts on each end.
Wolverine Brass #57670
Here is a link: http://www.wolverinebrass.com/downlo...Connectors.pdf
It's on page E-19 of the above link.
Wolverine Brass #57670
Here is a link: http://www.wolverinebrass.com/downlo...Connectors.pdf
It's on page E-19 of the above link.
#21
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Yes, it's scary. I cannot put into words the devastating damage that was done to my neighbor's house.
PS - Thanks to all here for their help. I'm very appreciative...
PS - Thanks to all here for their help. I'm very appreciative...
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 28
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I received my new toilet supply lines (with brass nuts on both ends) today from Kully Supply and installed them.
I sure feel better knowing there is not a plastic nut that could split and dump thousands of gallons of water onto the floor of my house, doing tens of thousands of dollars of damage like my two neighbors had happen to them.
Five bucks each plus shipping and ten minutes each to install is well worth the comfort of knowing it's not going to happen to me.



#23
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 518
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
This is a great thread and figured I'd revitalize with my own search. I too have neighbors who had a few thousand in damage when theirs broke and they were in the house! It was only 5 mins before they noticed and shut off the water. but the damage was done. I'm on a mission to replace all of mine so this is a great thread.
One question: the connection sticking out of the bottom of my tank, which is the end of the "fill valve" I think. THATs plastic too. Could that piece, in theory, split over time? Or is it ok if its enclosed by brass nut??
One question: the connection sticking out of the bottom of my tank, which is the end of the "fill valve" I think. THATs plastic too. Could that piece, in theory, split over time? Or is it ok if its enclosed by brass nut??
#24
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 4,294
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Really should be adding your own post.
Not very likely since that nut only needed to be just slightly more then hand tight.
But if it makes you feel any better by a flex line with a steel nut.
Not very likely since that nut only needed to be just slightly more then hand tight.
But if it makes you feel any better by a flex line with a steel nut.
#25
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 518
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
thanks. i figured this thread has some very good info and wanted to build on it. Maybe I need a new thread or maybe I just didnt explain well. Related to the topic in the thread, my question is around using a line with a steel or brass nut to connect the outlet of the toilet tank, the threaded shank at the end of the fill valve (in the picture below). Is the connection still weak b/c the fill shank at the end of the valve is plastic?
