Area Around Shower Drain
#1
08-14-12, 05:47 PM
Area Around Shower Drain
I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. The caulk around our shower drain would not set, so in investigating why, I unscrewed the shower drain and discovered a wet sandy mix underneath. I’m not sure if it was unset concrete or a different type of mixture, but I cleaned it out and don’t know what to do next. I’m guessing our builder may not have done something right. The void extends underneath the tile from about 1 to 2 inches around. We’re currently letting it dry out. Is this patchable? What should we fill the void in with exactly and can we pack it in underneath the tile?
Also, the drain is threaded and the pipe coming from the ground is not. It looks like they used some adhesive to try and seal the two together. Is it possible to make this kind of connection secure?
Thanks.
Also, the drain is threaded and the pipe coming from the ground is not. It looks like they used some adhesive to try and seal the two together. Is it possible to make this kind of connection secure?
Thanks.
#2
08-14-12, 07:43 PM
Super Moderator
Oh good gracious!!!!!
How old it the house?
Can you take a pic of the part you unscrewed?
Its a shower as you stated right?
It could probably be fixed but I would want to insure there is a membrane under there. Is this shower on the slab? ( No basement or crawl?)
This video shows how it should be. It take you up until the tile part.
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Install-Mortar-Shower-Pan-Membrane-Liner-240920192
How old it the house?
Can you take a pic of the part you unscrewed?
Its a shower as you stated right?
It could probably be fixed but I would want to insure there is a membrane under there. Is this shower on the slab? ( No basement or crawl?)
This video shows how it should be. It take you up until the tile part.
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Install-Mortar-Shower-Pan-Membrane-Liner-240920192
#3
08-14-12, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the reply. The house is 8 years old. Yep, it's a shower and it's on the slab. After watching the video, I'd have to venture a guess that there's not a membrane. Here are the pics of the piece that I removed.
#4
08-15-12, 03:33 AM
Mike, I don't see a liner under the keyways in the base, do you? Bad vibes.
Drudge00, welcome to the forums. Not a good sign, and it appears there is no liner to keep the water from eking it's way under the pan. It will only get worse, sorry to say. Let our tile guy pros chime in here with a possible good solution. Hang in.
Drudge00, welcome to the forums. Not a good sign, and it appears there is no liner to keep the water from eking it's way under the pan. It will only get worse, sorry to say. Let our tile guy pros chime in here with a possible good solution. Hang in.
#5
08-15-12, 06:34 PM
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is the shower leaking?, if not..and it looks like they used the gray shower membrane. around the drain there should have been small pebbles or rubble to aid in the drainage thru the weep holes. the reason your caulking wouldn't set up is because the mud bed (sand cement) always stays damp with use. you could put some round pea gravel back in, then install your drain with thinset or leftover grout. you might be able to recaulk the drain if you used a laytex tile caulk.
#6
08-15-12, 07:02 PM
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Tile guy, that drain is too deep. What ever that piece is in there with the rag should not be there. That strainer with the threads should screw into where that is. That hole should be filled with the mud base.
Hmmmm!
To the OP there are threads if you pull out the rag? That strainer threads into it? And that piece with the rag, does that unscrew also? It should. Let us know.
Like I said it looks like a big mistake.
is the shower leaking?
To the OP there are threads if you pull out the rag? That strainer threads into it? And that piece with the rag, does that unscrew also? It should. Let us know.
Like I said it looks like a big mistake.
#7
08-15-12, 08:03 PM
Originally Posted by lawrosa
To the OP there are threads if you pull out the rag? That strainer threads into it? And that piece with the rag, does that unscrew also? It should.
Originally Posted by drudge00
the drain is threaded and the pipe coming from the ground is not. It looks like they used some adhesive to try and seal the two together. Is it possible to make this kind of connection secure?
#8
08-15-12, 08:08 PM
It does look like a slip where the rag is. I don't like the set up at all. I still don't see any signs of a liner, and how was the piece with the keyways tightened up? From below?? Oops, slab. Guess not.
#9
08-15-12, 08:28 PM
Thanks for the replies. There aren't threads where the rag is. The drain fits snug and it looks like they used some kind of adhesive to connect the two. I'm hesitant to try to unscrew the piece with the rag in it, but it does fit over the pipe that leads into the ground / slab. It's about 2 5/8" from the bottom edge of the tile to the white disk that is below the pipe piece and the void is about 5 1/2" across. The hole in the tile itself is about 4 1/4".
#10
08-15-12, 08:43 PM
Super Moderator
OP you the original owner?
I would go after the builder. Its not right. I see no membrane. Plus whatever they did where all that mud is missing. Looks like the drain was in and the floor height was raised too high. Like a mistake in the plans. Plumbers fault or the cement guys. The strainer is installed wrong IMO period, and like I said they did some screwy stuff to try and fix it.
Also to the OP you did not dig that up or chip that area away did you? ThaTs how it was?
I would note also if any other fixtures in that bath are similar. I would be afraid to see what the toilet flange looks like.
I would go after the builder. Its not right. I see no membrane. Plus whatever they did where all that mud is missing. Looks like the drain was in and the floor height was raised too high. Like a mistake in the plans. Plumbers fault or the cement guys. The strainer is installed wrong IMO period, and like I said they did some screwy stuff to try and fix it.
Also to the OP you did not dig that up or chip that area away did you? ThaTs how it was?
I would note also if any other fixtures in that bath are similar. I would be afraid to see what the toilet flange looks like.
#11
08-15-12, 09:06 PM
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ok..i missed the part where the drain sets into the tube with the rag in it (no threads). even so, the liner should prevent leaks..thus the question "does the shower leak?". yes, not a conventional way to set a drain. you can see the bolts holding the flange in place from the top view. Like i said, and according to the tile institute of america..pea gravel should be put around the weep holes (not packed with dry pack) to insure drainage and not clogged weep holes. Heck, I've tore apart a non leaking shower where the drain was set in a old coffee can.
#12
08-15-12, 09:36 PM
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Heck, I've tore apart a non leaking shower where the drain was set in a old coffee can.
Yes!! I have seen that done many years ago.....LOL. 1980's?
How would he know its leaking? Its in the slab. As long as most of the water goes down the drain I guess.
#13
08-15-12, 10:04 PM
"does the shower leak?".
#14
08-16-12, 11:05 AM
606b3ff3.jpg picture by drudge00 - Photobucket
Would this seem to work, similar to what tile guy suggested earlier? Filling in with some gravel and then concrete or are we too far gone? If so, what kind of filler/concrete would we use? I don't have confidence in going through the builder, but need to look into it.
Would this seem to work, similar to what tile guy suggested earlier? Filling in with some gravel and then concrete or are we too far gone? If so, what kind of filler/concrete would we use? I don't have confidence in going through the builder, but need to look into it.
#15
08-16-12, 03:20 PM
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yea, thats the correct diagram for a shower drain. If there was no liner, you'd notice water coming out on the shower floor everywhere. can the white pipe that goes into the collar drain be removed without removing the clamping ring on the collar drain? The liner should be siliconed under the clamping ring, so removing the clamping ring might break the seal. If the pipe can be removed, then the clamping ring should be threaded, then you can buy the couplings and have screw in fittings for both the clamping ring and drain itself. then you can install the pea gravel and sand/cement based material to pack around the new assembly
#16
08-16-12, 04:46 PM
Is this the kind of stuff I'm looking for? CustomFloat 50 lb. Bedding Mortar-CFT50 at The Home Depot. If I'm able to find a non-threaded drain that fits, would that work or should it really be threaded? I'm just a little apprehensive trying to unscrew the top piece, but will if it's necessary.
#17
08-16-12, 05:36 PM
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If you can uncrew that piece with the rag then to extend it you would find a close 2" PVC nipple like this and screw in into the drain.
Then a 2" threaded coupling like this on top of the nipple
Then screw your strainer into the coupling and adjust to the right height.
Hope this helps
Then a 2" threaded coupling like this on top of the nipple
Then screw your strainer into the coupling and adjust to the right height.
Hope this helps
#18
08-16-12, 06:31 PM
Ok, I unscrewed it. It barely took any force. This is the piece that was in there, and here's what the drain looks like without it. Thanks lawrosa, sounds like it'll work. Should all of the pieces be glued together?
Last edited by drudge00; 08-16-12 at 06:50 PM.
#19
08-16-12, 06:56 PM
Super Moderator
Now if you screw the strainer in by itself most likely it will be too low and below the tile. That was thier attempt to raise the strainer.
If you get the parts I show in post #17 that will be the best way to raise it properly.
Also I dont see a membrane, I read through the code and its vague, but I believe on a slab membranes are not required in some areas.
If you get the parts I show in post #17 that will be the best way to raise it properly.
Also I dont see a membrane, I read through the code and its vague, but I believe on a slab membranes are not required in some areas.
#20
08-21-12, 04:33 PM
Also I dont see a membrane, I read through the code and its vague, but I believe on a slab membranes are not required in some areas.
So I don't mess something up, should the pieces be connected just using teflon tape? Also, after I put some pea gravel around the drain, is this what I should use to pack around it and fill in the void CustomFloat 50 lb. Bedding Mortar-CFT50 at The Home Depot, filling it to the level of the sand material as it shows in my previous post?
