How to remove/replace this toilet water supply valve (picture included)
#1
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How to remove/replace this toilet water supply valve (picture included)
While replacing the toilet fill valve, I unfortunately kinked the riser tubing from the wall to toilet. This riser tubing appears to be integrated with the wall valve, so it looks like I need to replace both the valve & riser.
From the photo below, does it appear this is a compression valve, or one that screws directly to the wall pipe? I'm really not for sure about the connection circled in red, or what the threads circled in blue near the valve are good for. This setup appears differently from most replacement videos I've watched.
I'd like to get a better idea of how to attack removing/replacing this before shutting off the house's water supply & having an open pipe. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
From the photo below, does it appear this is a compression valve, or one that screws directly to the wall pipe? I'm really not for sure about the connection circled in red, or what the threads circled in blue near the valve are good for. This setup appears differently from most replacement videos I've watched.
I'd like to get a better idea of how to attack removing/replacing this before shutting off the house's water supply & having an open pipe. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
That riser tube should be replaceable but it looks like the entire valve could use a replacement.
Treat yourself and upgrade to a 1/4 turn ball valve. They don't leak like the one you have there did.
It looks like your valve is threaded onto a 1/2" copper male adapter. You'll need two wrenches to remove it.
The link below shows the selection from mr orange
Search Results for*1/4 turn stop valve*at The Home Depot
On second look......your valve may be the solder on type......hard to tell from picture. You'd need a torch to replace the solder on type.
The blue threads in your pic is the removable nut to repack the valve stem.
Treat yourself and upgrade to a 1/4 turn ball valve. They don't leak like the one you have there did.
It looks like your valve is threaded onto a 1/2" copper male adapter. You'll need two wrenches to remove it.
The link below shows the selection from mr orange
Search Results for*1/4 turn stop valve*at The Home Depot
On second look......your valve may be the solder on type......hard to tell from picture. You'd need a torch to replace the solder on type.
The blue threads in your pic is the removable nut to repack the valve stem.
#3
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The valve is a sweat on. It appears that there is enough nipple protruding from the wall to simply cut off the old valve (or sweat it off) and replace it. You might have a problem with fitting a replacement over the existing nipple. It will have to be spiffy clean of crud/corrosion and old solder.
What you'll need to do the job:
A MAPP or propane torch
A pipe cutter or hacksaw
Solder
Flux
A pipe cleaning brush
Adjustable wrench
New wall escutcheon
Replacement stop valve
If you don't feel comfortable DIYing this - a plumber.
What you'll need to do the job:
A MAPP or propane torch
A pipe cutter or hacksaw
Solder
Flux
A pipe cleaning brush
Adjustable wrench
New wall escutcheon
Replacement stop valve
If you don't feel comfortable DIYing this - a plumber.
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Thanks for the feedback. Is there any issue with just cutting the existing valve off, and using a new compression type valve, so that I don't have to mess with/purchase flux, solder, and a torch?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#6
For compression or sharkbite to work....that remaining pipe has to be perfectly round and clean. From the pic...not sure that will happen.
#7
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If sweating on a replacement isn't an option my choice would probably be a Sharkbite. Just be sure to get the seating area on the nipple as perfectly clean and smooth as possible. Sharkbite LINK
If you go with the Sharkbite valve be sure to follow the install instructions to a tee. If the O-ring isn't properly seated it will leak. If there are rough edges it might damage the O-ring when the pipe is inserted. When you buy the valve pick up the Sharkbite removal tool. It's cheap (less than $1?) and handy if you have to remove the valve.
If you go with the Sharkbite valve be sure to follow the install instructions to a tee. If the O-ring isn't properly seated it will leak. If there are rough edges it might damage the O-ring when the pipe is inserted. When you buy the valve pick up the Sharkbite removal tool. It's cheap (less than $1?) and handy if you have to remove the valve.
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Thanks for all of the feedback. I was able to remove the old sweat valve with a propane blowtorch & channel locks; came off much easier than I was imagining.
A pipe brush & emery cloth cleaned the pipe up very nicely. Since I got it pretty clean, I decided to go with a 1/4 turn Sharkbite valve.
All of this along with a new escutcheon & a braided SS supply line, I am back in business with no leaks.
This was my most involved plumbing experience I've had so far and it turned out well. Thanks for the help.
A pipe brush & emery cloth cleaned the pipe up very nicely. Since I got it pretty clean, I decided to go with a 1/4 turn Sharkbite valve.
All of this along with a new escutcheon & a braided SS supply line, I am back in business with no leaks.
This was my most involved plumbing experience I've had so far and it turned out well. Thanks for the help.