Problem removing toilet flange

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  #1  
Old 05-19-13, 02:46 PM
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Problem removing toilet flange

Redoing my bathroom, pulled up the floor and noticed the underlayment and subfloor were rotten around the toilet. Name:  IMG_20130518_182531.jpg
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So I knew what I had to do, though I'd never done it before. Remove a section of subfloor, from joist to joist and box it out, insert new sub floor, replace flange. So I had never replaced a flange before so I thought this might be a problem.

It's an ABS flange and it was in good shape but obviously I can't put the new sub floor down without taking it off. So when I looked online people seemed to be making cuts in the flange and chipping it off the pipe. I tried to to this and failed. the flange and the elbow under it seemed to be one piece. The ABS glue had really made them one.

and as a result the elbow got very damaged in the process. pieces broke off.

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A simple solution might be to cut the elbow off and put a coupling on and a new section of pipe then a new elbow and be done with it. Well it's all elbows under there.

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So I see a few options:

1. Continue forward, glue it on with ABS glue, Then putty any holes from the inside with that playdoh like 2 part epoxy putty.

2. Somehow try to fit a coupling on that tiny section of pipe on the elbow, which might also move the toilet location.

3. Call a plumber.

Thoughts?
 
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Old 05-19-13, 10:09 PM
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You still have more sub flooring to remove anyway, so once it's out cut the pipe where it's straight.
Duplicate what you have with new fittings.
 
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Old 05-19-13, 10:48 PM
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Joe's got a good idea. Not many places to cut what you have and patch. Try to get to the next bay on it's way to the stack. Hopefully there is enough of a straight run to cut in to.

You definitely don't want to patch your broken pipe.

It's all right if the toilet moves an inch or two. Just be careful of the distance to the wall. That's the critical measurement.
 
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Old 05-20-13, 07:09 AM
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That is the stack! Right at the very top right of the last picture you can see the stack going up through the wall. the stack joint is right there you can see coming past the joist. There is NO room for a straight pipe. Both existing straight pieces seem to be the same size about 1". That doesn't seem to be enough for a coupling.

 
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Old 05-20-13, 08:52 AM
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Your only options IMO is to

1. cut that ell off or the 45 and get a coupling on there. Glue the heck out of it and let it dry. Then make sure flange is well supported with no stress on it.
2. Or cut the tee out the stack and replace all.
3. Buy a reamer and ream out one of the hubs.




 
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Old 05-20-13, 09:13 AM
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Old 05-20-13, 09:53 AM
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Ok, I'm going to take @lawrosa's advice here.

#1 I think the new coupling is going to move the toilet too much and with only an inch of overlap I'm worried I might have a seal issue down the road.

#2 This sounds extreme and time consuming, in the order of days.

#3 This is the right answer for me, and I'm going to start by cutting the 90 off at the elbow then reaming that out with the reamer I provided above. This way if I mess it up I can try again at the T for the stack. But this method also allows me to retain the original layout, without having to worry too much about slope and such.
 
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Old 05-20-13, 12:35 PM
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#1. A coupling and a street ell may put it right in the same place.

#2. Yes but sometimes you just have to do these things.

#3. That reamer is for 1 1/2 you linked to. Youll be hard pressed to find one cheaply for 3" I would think....
 
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Old 05-20-13, 12:41 PM
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Here is a link to the one I purchased, 3" version of the link I sent you.

Jones Stephens Corp. J44-300 Socket Saver - Amazon.com

The street elbow idea is a good one, but I don't think there's quite enough on the straight piece to make a good coupling. I'll have to measure it when I get home. It's more than 1/2" do you think that's enough to make a good connection with 3" pipe?
 
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Old 05-20-13, 02:35 PM
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Looks like you have more then 1/2". Measure a coupling and see how far the pipe will insert.

The problem with the reamer is it may make the hub larger then normal, and not sure how smooth it wil be. Leak potential possibly. Also if your reaming and it gets caught up, you could break/crack more fittings.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 07:49 AM
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Ok I measured it. Conservatively it's 3/4" liberally it's 7/8. So I'm going to try to the coupling solution first. Local hardware store didn't have ABS so going to lowes today to pick up some pieces. Since it's a non destructive solution, if it doesn't work I can always cut it off and try the reamer solution.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 07:50 AM
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Yes let us know and take pics.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 12:34 PM
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There was no ABS plastic at HD. Which was closest to my work. So I got the special ABS-PVC glue. So I hope that is high quality. Test fitting tonight. Will post pics.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 03:02 PM
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The ABS is in the roofing section I believe......Why? IDK but I remember seeing it there...
 
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Old 05-21-13, 03:20 PM
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Lowes carries ABS in this area. HD does not.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 07:13 PM
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Everything seems to have worked fine. the 3/4" left on the pipe seemed to be enough to make a solid connection. I put extra glue in there to insure it would leak out a little and seal all the way around the outside as well:

Attachment 12989
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Here is the final glued assembly:

Attachment 12990

Here it is with the flange test fitted on to confirm alignment with the subfloor:

Attachment 12991

and NO I did NOT actually glue on the flange!

Thanks for all your help everyone especially @lawrosa!
 

Last edited by supraman215; 05-21-13 at 07:50 PM.
  #17  
Old 05-21-13, 07:20 PM
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Cant see the pics... Possibly you can re post... Very interested....
 
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Old 05-21-13, 07:52 PM
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I dunno what the deal is with the attachments but they are all there now if you click on them. Except the first one that was over 2mb so it wouldn't go.
 
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Old 05-21-13, 08:28 PM
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Hmmmm... Yeah... A coupling and street ell gets you where you need to be from my experience. Glad it worked out. I would have done the same without a doubt.
 
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Old 05-24-13, 05:35 PM
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NOTE TO SELF make sure the FLANGE slots are SQUARE to the wall when attaching the flange.

It;s going to work out but the bolts are going to be pretty wonky.
 
 

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