I just installed a new Crane (American Standard) "Galaxy/Cranada" 1.6 gpf toilet and the tank doesn't want to sit properly on the bowl.
There is a ridge on the front where the tank "sits" and no ridge on the back, therefore it's impossible to get the tank to seat properly on the bowl. When you sit, the tank will rock slightly. All the other connections are tight, no leaks anywhere. I can still see a bit of the rubber washer that came with the tank.
I was thinking of putting some rubber washers on the back part of the bowl to level out the uneven heights.
(On the old toilets, there was room enough behind the ridge for the entire tank to seat properly.)
This one is installed correctly as far as I can tell..all the bolt holes lined up so I think that must be the way it was designed to go together.
Anyone else had this problem with a new toilet ?

 

Some toilets come with plastic spacer that need to be placed on the bowl's ridge where the tank will rest. I often forget to put them aside when I'm unpacking the toilet and have to go digging through the trash to save them. If you don't have the spacers than almost anything you can think of will work. You just need something to fill the gap so you can tighten the tank down to just barely snug.

 

Was the tank sold separately? If so are you sure you got the one for your commode?

 

If the tank is hitting the back wall then you may have got the wrong rough... Usually the lid will not fit because of this.

They come in 10, 12, and 14".. Your old toilet may have been different...

Measure from the back wall to one of the bolts holding the toilet down... Tell us this measurement...

They we can guide you further....

 

I just installed three toilets that were just like that, makes no since to me.
I even broke down and even read the directions. There was no magic spacers.
If the flange was installed in the right place the back of the tank should be against the wall to keep it from moving back.

 

Joe a properly installed flange and rough toilet should not hit the wall.

There should always be a 1 " space. If not the flange is off or the toilet rough is wrong....

 

Just under 12"...about 11 7/8. The tank is centered and square on the wall. It came as a kit with bowl, tank and all the parts included.
This one is much smaller than the old one I replaced. I used the existing flange.
Seems like a piece of flimsy junk made in China...I already had to replace the Chinese fill valve (it leaked) with a Fluidmaster valve.
If I had known how poorly made they are now, I'd have gone to the Habitat Restore and got another old one. I replaced one in my powder room with an old American Standard large tank and it's much better built.

 

You still have the boxes? What do they say? Possible a different rough... Tank or bowl may not be right...

Make and models....

 

Did you measure from the wall or from the baseboard? You must measure from the wall.

 

bobndoug-

I’ve only done a few toilets, but I replaced my tank not long ago and had problems with the tank rocking.

Turns out I was being too tentative about tightening down the tanks bolts, afraid of cracking the china. I finally just kept going down very carefully, a little at a time while alternating bolts, and finally got it.
I think this link is the install instructions for yours. In figure 3 they just show the normal tightening procedure (I think that’s standard). Wonder if they gave you the right washer as depicted in figure 3?

http://www.americanstandardpro.com/a...stall_2844.pdf

http://www.americanstandardpro.com/a...Sheet_2844.pdf

If you have the tank tightened so far down so that the tank is hitting some kind of ridge on the top of the bowl, then you would think the tank would have stopped rocking long before that. Unless there is a spacer missing as was suggested – or maybe that is the wrong large washer as depicted in figure 3?

But I don’t see any spacer in their instructions and I’m not familiar with the ridge you guys are familiar with – but I’m no plumber.

 

Sold as a complete kit #33951SSN100 w/supply line, wax seal, bolts, etc. - this is # on box
bowl #3372 tank #3743.
Breakdown of tank and bowl are below -

(specs from the Crane website)

• 31183 Cranada II
Bowl: 3372 Cranada® Pro II elongated rim
vitreous china (6.0 lpf), siphon action with
bolt caps.
Tank: 3743 Cranada® 12” [438] roughing-in
insulated vitreous china tank and cover with
flushvalve, float valve with backflow preventer,
and color coordinated trip lever.

 

Oh I see the ridge I think you are talking about. Just follow this and you should be fine.

How to Install a Toilet : How to Attach a Toilet Tank to the Bowl - YouTube

 

Finally got the tank tightened properly...I read that you need to tighten each bolt alternately until you cannot move the tank in any direction - side-to-side, back to front or twisting alternate corners. Turns out the big problem was a defective flush valve that came with the toilet. I returned to the dealer and was provided with a new flush valve (no charge - still under warranty) which solved the problem. They also mentioned that they had complaints about this brand/model of toilet for badly made and/or badly fitting parts. Too bad all this stuff is made in China now (as cheaply as possible)...I'd gladly pay more for an item that's still made in North America.