hey all, thanks in advance. i'm getting ready to install a symmons temptrol which will be replacing a couple of ancient valves. this will be my first time working with a torch and solder. my question is this: given that there are rubber/plastic parts in the temptrol, how risky is it to solder into the valve without disassembling the valve (i.e. taking it apart to remove the rubber/plastic parts)?

i've actually contacted symmons with the same question; their answer was that as long as i keep the flame moving i should be OK without disassembling the valve.

i like that answer because it's easy, but i'm still a little nervous about it. anyone care to chime in on the issue?

 

I always disassemble and remove the cartridge if I have to solder to the faucet housing. The modern lead free solders seem to take a bit more heat so I'm extra cautious.

 

Thanks for the reply. By your comment, I guess I'll have to also remove the cold seat and hot seat (TA-4 and TA-9 in the diagram), because there are o-rings involved there...

 

Yea, I pull out anything that can be damaged by the heat. It's also nice to know that you have all the time you need to get a good solder joint and not hurrying for fear of melting something.

 

I hear ya. Just means i need to spend another $20 at home depot for the tools i need to get the hot/cold seats out (parts T-35A and T35B on the diagram).

There's also the diverter/volume assembly (TA-25A, TA-25B)... there are no notes here on how to get that out, but the cap (T-21C) has a hex pattern, so maybe just a hex key for that. any experience with this model? Temptrol S-96-2

 

If the seats are metal they can remain in place while soldering. Anything but metal it is best to remove them.

 

i had a temptrol and just wrapped a wet towel around the area away from the solder joint... never had any issues with the soldering, but the temptrol did not like hard well water and had issues every couple of years until i replaced it.

 

thanks again to everyone who replied to my questions. in the end, based on 1) comments from two different symmons reps and 2) frugality/laziness (didn't want to pay $20 for the seat removal tools and to add complexity to a job that i'm doing for the first time) i ended up leaving the valve intact for soldering.

the experience was stressful. the joints on the valve have thicker walls than typical copper, which required me to keep the flame on the valve for such a long time that i was sure i was melting its insides. lo and behold, when the joints were finally attached and sealed, the valve functioned without leaking, and that's the current status. i do get dripping from the tub spout for several minutes after shutting off the water, but that dripping does eventually stop, and i find the tub completely dry every morning. not sure how to explain that...

anyway, that's the end of it. see photos attached for the results. my first time plumbing, my first time tiling. highly recommend the curved curtain rod, by the way.

 

That's the water in the shower riser and hose to the hand-held shower siphoning back and draining through the tub spout, it is entirely normal.