Flange leaks on upstairs toilet.


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Old 03-13-14, 02:00 PM
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Flange leaks on upstairs toilet.

The flange on an upstairs toilet has a small leak where the flange connects to a short riser coming out of an elbow (about 3 inches between elbow and flange). There is only about 3 inches behind the elbow and the next connection which is a 45 where the shower drain connects. This is all black pvc. Being the connections are so close I really don't want to cut behind the elbow because I don't believe there is enough space for a coupling. I have done other home repairs but this is my first experience replacing a flange.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 04:30 PM
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Is there enough room to get a picture of the area? Can you see the source of the leak? Is the pipe or a fitting cracked or does it look like a bad glue joint?
 
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Old 03-14-14, 12:39 AM
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This is all black pvc.
No, it is NOT PVC, it is ABS plastic. ABS uses a different solvent cement than does PVC and it has a thicker wall.

You MIGHT be able to daub on several thin coats of ABS cement where it is leaking in order to seal the leak. It isn't the best method but it CAN often work and is much easier than cutting the mess out and starting over. Let the cement dry/harden for an hour between coats if the temperatures are around 70, longer if cooler.
 
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Old 03-14-14, 07:05 PM
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A correction on my part. The flange is not attached to a riser coming out of a 90. Actually it is glued to the male end of a street ell. By measuring the outside of the pipe (11in.) I believe the pipe size is 3". In the picture the leak is where the green and white discoloration is located. It looks like a deteriation in in the glue in that spot. There is a span of about 2 inches that the glue is cracking. The house was built in 1981 and we bought it 2 years ago. A couple of months ago we discovered the ceiling sagging where previous owners did a good job of covering up the problem.Name:  flange.jpg
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Old 03-14-14, 11:57 PM
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Looking at the picture I am pretty sure the problem is that the flange did not fit down fully on that street ell before being stopped by the floor. The proper fix would be to remove the flange, the street ell and whatever other piping necessary to re-do it properly using a regular elbow (may need a short radius) and a nipple through the floor.

Before doing all of that I would wash off the leaking area and daub on the ABS cement as I previously detailed. I don't think there is any problem of physical strength in that poorly fitted joint, just that it is leaking, and adding the cement will likely stop the leak permanently.
 
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Old 03-15-14, 08:26 AM
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Thanks Furd. I think I will try the cement and take it one step further by removing the toilet and approaching it from the top also. Doing it the proper way could turn into a major project due to there only being three inches between the street ell and the next connection which is a 45 where the tub ties in.
 
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Old 03-15-14, 03:24 PM
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After pulling the toilet and with all the glue inside the flange and ell it looks as if someone had tried the glue repair before. The flange is also rusted. Not rusted through but water has definitely gotten to it. Looks as if the floor was tiled after original construction which caused the flange to be too low along with other problems. I think I will give this one to the pros. anyone know a good plumber in the Greensboro NC area?
 
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Old 03-16-14, 01:25 AM
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...there only being three inches between the street ell and the next connection...
Lots of room. Cut out the street ell and cut back the remaining "nipple" to just slightly more than the depth of a coupler. Glue on the coupler and then another nipple to a regular elbow up the hole in the floor. Add a nipple up through the floor and then patch the floor, allowing room for the new flange. Cut the vertical nipple and then glue on the flange. Remember, the flange ALWAYS goes on top of the finished floor. Get a flange with a stainless steel ring to prevent rusting.
 
 

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