Delayed Leak from pop up assembly under pedestal sink

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Old 04-15-14, 08:12 AM
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Delayed Leak from pop up assembly under pedestal sink

I have a mysterious leak from the threading of the pop up assembly of a newly installed faucet set. Everything is tight and it doesn't leak when I run water through it. The leak shows up hours later. If it leaked right away, I might try to take it apart and add sealant to the threads, but I'm not sure what is going on. Is there any way it could be leaking, even though the water has already drained from the pipe?
 
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Old 04-15-14, 08:42 AM
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Yes, it sometimes takes time for the water to wick it's way around and become visible. Depending on your drain assembly the seal may be on the bottom of the assembly so there is some water trapped in the area above even water is not running.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 10:12 AM
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Just replaced my pop-up ball rod and have been checking for leaks myself. Is there any way that the leak is coming from one of the newly made faucet connections and is dripping down making it appear that itís coming from the ball rod connection?

Guess thatís not too likely since the faucet connections arenít directly above the pop-up ball rod connection. But water takes all kinds of paths. (I know - lol). I usually take paper towels and put them in different places to help me find where the drip is coming from. If they do in fact get dripped on, then even after they dry I can still see where they were dripped on.

But maybe there is no doubt in your case that itís definitely coming from the ball rod connection.

Good luck with the problem.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 05:52 PM
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Just a clarification, the leak isn't coming from the ball joint. It looks like it's coming from the threads at the point where the two pieces of the pop up assembly screw together. There may also be some coming from the threads under the cone shaped gasket that fits up against the sink. I'm going to try to take it apart and put some pipe thread compound on the threads and check it again after that. Does that sound like a good idea?
 
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Old 04-15-14, 06:00 PM
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Do you have plumber's putty under the top lip of the drain assembly that is visible from up above?
 
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Old 04-15-14, 06:20 PM
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Yes, I put plumbers putty under the piece that is visible in the sink, but from my understanding, if that part wasn't sealed it wouldn't leak under the sink. It would just leak from the sink into the drain when the stopper was in place.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 06:34 PM
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Jabba as Allan says and as far as I know plumbers putty should be rolled into a snake shape and be rolled under and around the top part of the drain ( the part you see from above looking into the sink) while it is being tightened down. Iíve had leaks there before (I think I didnít tighten the nut on the bottom enough, I believe Ė I donít really remember) but I donít remember having leaks hours later after the sink had drained.

But I guess what Pilot Dane says could explain the delay.
If you did use plumbers putty maybe you just need to tighten that nut on the bottom a little more.

sorry just saw your post - I'm always a little late. lol
 
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Old 04-15-14, 06:52 PM
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Just thought of something else Ė this is a faint distant recollection (or maybe a hallucination, lol) however Iím not totally sure but one time I think the washer under the sink that the nut tightens up against, had an inner diameter that was maybe a little too large? When I tightened the nut I had the washer off center and that caused a leak?

But Iím not 100% sure and even if true thatís probably a million to one.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 07:06 PM
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Now I am thinking that the washer on the underside is meant to protect the porcelain of the sink from the metal nut (spread out the pressure imposed by the nut over a greater area), not to stop leaking. Even if the washer underneath did stop the leaking, if water got in from above, it would collect and bacteria and mold would grow there. The seal has to be established up above.

The plumbers putty has to come out all the way to the perimeter of the top lip otherwise some water getting past will end up under the sink. To be sure the layer of plumbers putty fills the entire space under the lip, you should use enough that excess oozes out all the way around the lip as you tighten the ring nut below.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 07:16 PM
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That does make sense. I usually keep written records so I don't do the same thing again. But I didn't keep any for the pop-up drain installations, so I don't know what I did wrong, so I'll probably make the same mistakes again - lol. But I do remember having leaks.

Maybe Jabba just didn't get enough putty around the drain.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 08:44 PM
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When I installed it, I did apply a generous amount of putty in a ring around the piece that goes in the sink, so I don't think that's it. But I will have to redo it anyway since I will be taking it apart to put the thread sealant on the threads below the sink. We will see what happens.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 08:53 PM
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Another thing, I think one of the compression fittings on a PVC elbow further down the line may be leaking too. Is there anything to do about that besides tightening? It's already as tight as I can go by hand.
 
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Old 04-16-14, 08:48 AM
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Is your pop up assembly part plastic? If so, change it out for an all brass assembly. Nothing but grief with the cheap plastic tailpipes. The other notorious spot for leaks is on the trap assembly. If the two pieces do not meet perfectly, you can get a leak no matter how tight you get it. I would remove and re-install. When you have it down, look inside and see if there are any burrs or not smooth areas where the trap connects. Remove burrs with a utility knife. If all else fails at the trap, I have found a little plumbers putty sometimes saves the day.
 
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Old 04-16-14, 09:01 AM
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hi Jabba Ė

As you see, Iím no plumber. But I know what you mean about those compression leaks on the PVC piping. I think it was actually on this forum (not sure) but one of the plumbers said you start from the top and work down towards the bottom tightening things up by hand.

Thatís the way I do it now. Work down from both sides and the last piece installed is at the bottom. I just use hand tightening also. That seems to work for me. Maybe leaks are caused by slight alignment problems that are eliminated by the above technique? But seems to me hand tightening is correct.

Maybe one of the plumbers will weigh in.

whoops - late again.lol just saw czizzi's post.
 
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Old 04-16-14, 10:04 AM
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The pop up assembly is plastic. It came with the new moen faucet. I was hoping not to have to buy anything else, so I will try the thread seal before replacing completely. About the compression joints on pvc, where would I apply the plumber's putty?
 
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Old 04-16-14, 04:26 PM
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Putty is a last resort, the joint should not leak if installed properly. I reverse what Zoe said in this situation. I want as much flexibility to get the compression fitting set correctly. First off the back part needs to be perfectly horizontal (part that comes from the wall and turns 90 degrees and is threaded. Next the J part of the trap that extends to the tail pipe needs to meld with the other part perfectly. Not come in at an angle or be too short that you are reaching to make them connect. Again, inspect for Burrs, I have only found them once or twice. If you have clean PVC, then put them together, apply upward pressure and begin to screw them together. If all angles are correct, you will know as it goes together and screws further without a fight. Once you have a good connect, then install the cap on the tail pipe trap adapter.

To test, fill the sink completely up with water, then pull the stopper. Let large rushes of water go down the drain to test all components for weakness and deficiency. Wipe every joint with a paper towel or toilet paper as it will show you the slightest amount of moisture. If you have a failure, lather, rinse and repeat.
 
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Old 04-16-14, 08:35 PM
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So I took everything apart, put lots of putty under the piece that goes in the sink, and put Rectorseal 5 thread compound on the threads of the pop up assembly. I also put some putty on the PVC compression joint that was leaking. I haven't run the sink yet, I'm not sure if the sealant needs to cure. Does anyone know if I have to wait to use the drain for the sealant? The directions on the tube weren't very specific.
 
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Old 04-17-14, 07:11 AM
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Pipe thread sealant does not cure, it remains flexible. You can test your drain at anytime.
 
 

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