Leak in jet tub

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  #1  
Old 06-28-14, 07:19 AM
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Leak in jet tub

Hi guys,

This is the tub:



It has been leaking down to the dining room below, so we are not using it. I had a guy come in and he gave a very high quote to rip up the tile, etc. "just to find the leak". When I was done laughing, I went and got a USB camera, snaked it under the tub, and found the leak. It is coming from the intake above the drain.

See video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWCGIF2xmZQ

My question is: from what you guys can see, does this look like the problem might be the gasket on the inside of the tub, or do you think I need to open things up ?.

Here is the gasket I'm talking about.




Thanks...
 
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  #2  
Old 06-28-14, 07:30 AM
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After removing the strainer cover, you may see the gasket problem better. This tub has no access panels?!
 
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Old 06-28-14, 11:16 AM
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It has an access panel from inside the closet (other side of the wall in first photo) - that is how I was able to snake the camera through. I'll remove the cover and have a look-see.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 07:26 PM
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Ok, so I removed the screen, and the gasket looks intact (although dirty). Here are some photos of the intake. I can see it is glued. For the life of me, I have no idea how it is leaking. I am thinking I will clean the area as best I can, check carefully for any cracks, and perhaps silicone around the outer edge, and if possible inside where the pipe meets the fitting ?. If that doesn't work, then the only thing left would be a crack on the housing which can only be reached by ripping out the tiles ?.

Does that make sense at all ?





 
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Old 07-02-14, 10:12 AM
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Follow up....

So I am assuming this is what I actually have.....



I tried to untwist #3 by hand with no luck. Don't know if it is glued in or what. Is there some special tool needed (something that grabs on to those fins) ?.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 02:36 PM
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It is probably being held tight by the gasket. Easier to remove the collar behind it. I don't know what you will get into once you gain access. My bet is on a poor glued up joint, but that gasket could prove to be the culprit, too.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 03:10 PM
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I was afraid someone would mention the collar.....that means I have to rip out the tile which I was trying to avoid.

Ugh.....
 
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Old 07-02-14, 04:20 PM
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That's why I put access covers on the front, near the motor and inlet lines. Yeah, it looks like a cover, but so does the hood of your car
 
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Old 07-02-14, 05:36 PM
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Yeah, there is an access point, but it is in the wrong place.
 
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Old 08-27-14, 06:56 PM
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Update: did some more detective work and came up with this:

Different view of leak:

Record 02 - YouTube

The leak seems to occur only when the water reaches the top of the suction hole.....








I am about ready to rip out the tile front but once I expose the fitting, I have no idea what to do....any direction would be appreciated. Is it the collar ?. Is it the gasket ?

Thanks
 
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Old 08-27-14, 11:21 PM
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How come I wasn't invited to the party ?

I didn't see this thread the first time around. That fitting should be just screwed into place. Get a large pair of channel lock to engage the teeth in the fitting. Open the pliers up so that they are as wide as possible.

Try turning counterclockwise. Try going about 1/2 turn. This would be loosening. Now try turning one turn clockwise. As long as you can break that fitting loose.... you can change the gasket from the tun side.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 06:12 AM
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Will try - actively hunting down matching tiles in case I break some while removing. Once those are located (or a suitable compromise), off I go. Expect more posts on this.

Just to clarify, the gasket you speak of is part #4 in the diagram, right ?.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 07:00 AM
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Yes.... #4 is the gasket. I think the key relies in getting the screw in fitting to break loose.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 10:08 AM
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please don't say break...LOL
 
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Old 08-30-14, 08:51 AM
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I would only touch the tile as a last resort. I'd cut the ceiling open in a heartbeat if I thought there was enough access room. It's much easier to fix the sheetrock than to mess with tile.
Mark out your beams in pencil. You want to make the cuts center of beam to center of beam so that you can reattach the rock.

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From what I can see in the video it looks like the gasket is leaking where it seats to the rough outside of the fiberglass tub. I would have parts 3,4,5 and 6 from your picture above on hand before the repair although once you open the ceiling you can see much better.

That threaded-in fitting shouldn't be too hard to break free and actually I feel that it's not tight enough now. Your biggest problem is finding the right tool to turn it with. That tub company may offer one. I've removed similar parts with a large channel lock pliers and a prayer.

If you intend to try to turn that outside fitting then you MUST have the replacements, in hand, in case of breakage.

If you knew for sure it was the gasket..... it could be changed without cutting anything open. After you remove the outside threaded piece you would push in slightly on the threaded fitting in the back. The gasket would probably fall out at that point. Put a small bead of silicone on both sides of the new gasket and working thru the hole recenter it on the rear threaded piece.
Re-install the front threaded piece.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the detailed explanation and counsel. I will try from below, since touching the tile probably means a new bathroom (my wife keeps encouraging me to rip the tile). Per the picture below - this is the dining room. The water stains have been in the white area near the chandelier.




My steps will be:

1. Remove furniture and chandelier.

2. Drill 1/2 in. hole in drywall and insert camera to make sure I am in the right spot. I have measured rough distances and I am pretty sure that is the spot, but since I have the camera, why not make sure. I should be able to see the fitting right above me.

3. Once spot located, cut hole as indicated. Attempt to tighten the collar and see if leak stops. If that doesn't work, then attempt removal of fitting and replacement.

4. Repair drywall and repaint.

5. Reinstall chandelier.


I should be done by 2017.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 01:20 PM
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The collar gets tightened at the tub.... not underneath.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 02:09 PM
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The collar gets tightened at the tub.... not underneath.

So you tighten by turning #3 ?
 
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Old 09-17-14, 06:22 PM
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OK so more questions.....



Given this picture (this is an extreme close-up) is it safe to assume that (A) is the gasket (#4 in diagram), and (B) is the collar (#5). Also, does (C) look like a crack in the fitting to anyone ?. I am hoping to tackle this over the weekend. I noticed the overflow pipe and a water line may be in my way, so I want to be really sure of what's what before I go poking around in there.

@PJMAX: Any chance that turning that collar clockwise might tighten the seal and stop the leak?. Looks like the bottom section of (A) is somewhat separated from the tub.....(a guy can dream, right ?).

And, finally, I noticed the PVC glue (or primer) is green, as opposed to purple. Is this a special adhesive or just coincidence ?.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-17-14, 07:28 PM
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Nice picture.

Very hard to tell if that is a crack.

A is the gasket and is away from the tub on the top
B is the collar or locknut.

Refer back to your pictures in post #10.....
If that "crack" was indeed a crack.... you would have a water leak regardless of where the water level was in the fitting opening.

Since you only have a leak when the water is fairly high up in the fitting that would suggest the gasket is not seated properly against the fiberglass tub.

When originally installed..... #3 was probably put thru tub..... #4 gasket was added on back and then #5 locknut was screwed on and tightened from the back.

I've re-written my reply several times as I'm not 100% certain here. I can't tell if the glued in elbow is glued to part #3 or part #5. If it's glued to #3 then you can only tighten the nut from the back. If it's glued into #5 then you'd have to tighten from the front. My best guess is that the elbow is actually glued into the #3 fitting which means you'd need a big pair of slip joint pliers to tighten that nut clockwise from the back.

Like I mentioned previously.... I'd have the replacement parts on hand before I tried any tightening unless you don't use the tub much and could stand down time.

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Not sure about the colors of the primer.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-17-14 at 07:57 PM. Reason: original reply was wrong perspective of pic
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Old 09-18-14, 05:57 AM
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Perfect - this is exactly what I needed confirmation on. I have tried turning #3, and no luck, so I am pretty sure the elbow is glued to that. I can actually see the green stuff inside if I look from inside the tub into #3. So, I will open the ceiling, and attempt to turn the collar clockwise.
 
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Old 11-27-14, 06:25 AM
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Well.......this was an epic fail.

Determined that the cutout in the subfloor was barely big enough to get one hand thru, and even if made bigger there were pipes in the way, so decided to cut out 4 tiles to access the area. I got someone to help me out, and we found that the ring was tight, but not super tight. We were able to make it tighter, but the leak was still there, so we removed the ring, pushed the assembly IN, and caulked in between part #3 and the inside of the tub. The thinking was that perhaps the water was seeping thru there. The assembly was re-tightened and then waited 24 hours only to find that the leak is now much worse. So....from a theory standpoint, I am now thinking that part #3 has a crack in it probably where the thread is. Now that it has moved (and made tighter), that crack has expanded and so the faster leak. Another theory is that the whole thing may not be glued properly, but I think that is less likely. Bottom line, looks like the tile will need to be ripped out and the entire assembly replaced. I may try silicone on both sides of the gasket, but from what I can see, if it works, it may be a temporary fix at best. I could be wrong here, but IMO there is no reason for water to ever get outside of #3. It should flow thru to the elbow and out. Once the water gets to the outside of #3 where the threads are, and reaches that gasket #4, you've got another problem, but that's just me and my inexperience talking.
 

Last edited by fxcarden; 11-27-14 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 11-27-14, 10:02 AM
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Just another post to try to visually explain my prior post.....someone set me straight if I am wrong...

Water should follow the path with the light blue arrows, period. If water ever gets to the thread (dark blue) and therefore to the gasket, it has left its intended path and you most likely have a leak at that point. There are only 2 ways I can see where the water would make it to the outside of the thread of #3. Either coming in from where #3 meets the inside wall of the tub (which is now eliminated with the silicone), or, somehow leaking from where #6 is glued to #3 (dark blue) and then finding its way out. Back to the gasket #4. It is hard plastic and not very flexible. I have a hard time imagining this is meant to be a seal when it doesn't flex enough to conform to the rough surface of the fiberglass. All thoughts welcome. Yes, I am really PO'ed at the whole thing.

 
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Old 11-27-14, 01:02 PM
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If you put silicone inside the tube between the tub and #3.......that is your seal point.
The tub to #4 to #5 is not used as a seal point.

The elbow.... #6.... isn't threaded. It glues into the middle of #3. That looks to be where the trouble is.
 
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Old 11-27-14, 05:43 PM
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Right - thanks for the sanity check
 
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Old 12-07-14, 04:36 PM
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same problem

I've been struggling with the exact same issue, looks like the same tub. I did cut one tile out (a Dremel tool with a special tile cutting bit works, but is tough on teh Dremel). So I have a 1x1 access door now right at the back of the suction fitting. It is all glued together. Loosening the back ring (#5) just loosens the pieces so you can poke them into the tub.
Had my wife silicon inside and we put it back together, leaked worse, just like yours.
I've now removed the silicone and am trying to figure out if I should re-silicone it "better", or if there is another issue.
- The back ring cannot be the seal, as it's a rough surface
- There does not appear to ever have been sealant at the suction fitting, it seems to just be a pliant plastic fitting held tight against a smooth acrylic surface. Reasonable to think that would be leak-tight.
- No sign of crack or leak

Photos show the backside and tub side of the suction.

Any additional thoughts on advice on this would be appreciated!
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Old 12-07-14, 05:13 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You do seem to have the same problem and looks to be in that right angle glued in piece. Your fitting in the tub is different than fx's. Yours looks to have a small piece of hose connected to that fitting.

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Old 12-07-14, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the welcome! I'd like to say I'm pleased to be here, but...

As you note, there is a difference on the elbow, but I can't see where the problem is in that joint. I've actually witnessed the leak (after my wife tried to fix it we tested), and it appears to pour out of the joint at the tub wall. The elbow does not have any moisture on any part of it.

I'm thinking I just silicone it inside and outside and screw it together tight. Hoping that teh silicone job I just scrapped of was just not done well.

100% silicone the best thing to use on this?
 
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Old 12-07-14, 08:58 PM
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So you're saying the water is coming out between the tub and the lock ring ?

There would have to be a visible gap between the fitting and the tub, on the inside, for the water to be pouring out.

I can't help but think that the fitting may be cracked.
 
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Old 12-23-14, 08:35 AM
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My problem turned out to be that the joint (90 elbow to intake fitting) was poorly glued. I just finished replacing the thing this morning. I did put silicone on both sides of the ring to be safe. Replacing wasn't very difficult. Hopefully the new joints will hold when I test it tomorrow after everything dries up. Keeping fingers crossed. Oh, I also found out the green glue is a transition glue, but I wound up using the regular stuff.
 
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Old 12-23-14, 08:45 AM
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That certainly is some good news. It's been a while. Name:  snow_grin.gif
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Old 12-23-14, 10:03 AM
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Yeah, 7 months too many LOL. Thank God for spare bathrooms. Anyway, I've been so busy that this was a low priority item. If today's repair works, I am officially done. There is nothing that needs fixing, but I am sure I can break something.
 
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Old 12-23-14, 11:38 AM
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and......I am now happy to report no leaks......woo-hoo !!!

Merry Christmas, and thanks to everyone who helped me out.
 
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Old 03-14-15, 01:59 PM
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...and now for more drama

Figured I'd put it on the same thread.........

First, let me say that I use the tub quite often, and NO LEAKS.

However, I noticed that one of the heads is very loose. Upon closer inspection, I found this:



I am guessing the part that is cracked is a retainer ring of some sort ?. Further, I am thinking that the jet head is loose because the ring is not holding it ?. The other heads are fine. I can move them and they have some resistance. This one is like moving jello.

The part search begins anew.........sigh.
 
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Old 03-14-15, 11:20 PM
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Now you're in trouble. That part looks to be hard to get and expensive.


I've left you a link to check out......
Hot Tub Spa Replacement Jet Parts - Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath for the HTC Series
 
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Old 03-15-15, 05:02 PM
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ha ha ---- oh boy ---- I am DOOMED !!!!.

seriously, you are a life saver.......I was ready to buy the whole thing for lots of $$.

hell I may even splurge and buy the 3 screws !!!!!
 
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