I had to remove bad tile from a basement shower, and in the process, the tile smashed a hole into the base which I WAS going to keep. So I had to buy a new shower base. In the process the old one was screwed on but they used glue so I had to break it off leaving only the 2" ABS pipe. So I go pick up a new drain( http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...310-c-9430.htm ), and like a fool I just glue it onto the pipe. Low and behold it sits up too high so the base wabbles. I know I can use a heat gun to soften up the adhesive and what not to remove it and get the correct one( http://www.menards.com/main/p-2257756-c-9430.htm) thats just once peice.

My question is, will removing the wrong one comprimise the integrity of the pipe I'm removing it from? since it might be a bit jacked from the old glue and what not that a heat gun will do? with the cement right around it I really don't have any room to cut it further. I can try, but it probably won't be very straight, I had to use one of those metal string cutters before and it wasn't very even to begin with. I had to just tear chunks off with a vice grip to try and make it even as possible before.

 

Can you shim the pan instead? How far off is it?

 

I suppose I could do that, it's off quite a bit I would have to shim it up about maybe half a inch? I tried to with some old left over floor tile in the laundry room(about 1/4 inch thick), but it still seems to touch. Also since it's a basement, the ceiling is only 7 feet up in the bath for some odd reason(the rest of the basement is 8 feet), and with the base would take away a few inches. problem is I'm about 6'3.

 

In that case, try the heat gun or look on youtube for ways to separate the pipe.

 

Ok sounds good, most likely what I would have to do. I also ran into another problem, and think I know a good solution. The cement floor is uneven in spots for it(I have a level, its quite off in spots) I think the best thing to do is temporary shim it even, mark the studs on where it should be when it's even, mix up some morter, apply where needed, and fit the base back where it needs to be with morter until it dries?

 

You can shim it with wood when you frame it. It's less work than mixing mortar.

 

How about just using self leveling compound?

 

Those are the wrong style drains for a shower base. Take a picture of what you currently have and we can point you in the correct direction. First drain picture is for a shower with a mud bed and a pan liner that is eventually tiled over. The second one is for an emergency floor drain in a basement floor, not a shower. I'd also like to see what you have done to the current set up that we can detach safely and not further damage the pipe.

 

x2!!!!!!!!-------------------------

 

Here it is. The drain seems it should work. I took the white thing off for now. It does seem like it would work though? BTW this shower base does stick out further than the old one, so the front will have to sit on tile. where I'm putting it will probably have to be level with the tile. But like I said is uneven

 

Here is a link to a video that shows the installation of a shower drain that uses a compression seal to make it water tight. This is the drain body that you want to install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHRwNZnli6E

 

Ok I can try and find it at menards, seal around it as well I imagine?

 

Oh and how should I remove the other one? Will whats left on the pipe be able to still be sealed and water proof with the new one even though it's been glued on?

 

I could cut current drain off with this http://www.menards.com/main/p-2229786-c-8607.htm

since it will be short I'm thinkin use this:
http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...555-c-8547.htm

buy a pipe, but it to size so I can extend it back up. Sound like a plan? still have to level the floor though

 

You may have to chip open a hole in the floor to be able to get the coupler attached to a new length of drain pipe that will reach your pan. There was one other video I watched that said you need to silicone instead of plumbers putty on the ABS drains. You also may need to get some pressure treated shims so that you can match the height of the tile and support the base. See if Pressure treated lattice is the correct thickness for you task.

 

I'm not using tile actually, just a wall kit. Maybe I could just lay out cement and make sure its all level with everything and go from there? Yeah I would have to chip out some cement to extend it, probably just a inch or so around, clean out some of the dirt around and should be good to go. the surround won't be too high up, i imagine 4-5 inches form the top.

 

Never said anything about you using tile, merely trying to assist with the height difference to your existing floor.

 

Oh ok sorry I think I just misunderstood is all. If I have to chip out cement after I get this thing off, I suppose I could just drill into the cement a bit around to make it easier to remove(I have a drill for that, used it in my garage's cement for something). How tricky will it be to shim? I tried it a bit already with some half in wood I found in the garage, but it still wobbled a bit. Probably just a matter of trial and error since it's uneven. I think this is the reason that water leaked before behind the old tile right at the base. The base was moving down slightly where it was on uneven floor causing the seal between that and the tile to fail leaking water behind it. That's what it looks like. The work was done before I got the house.