Replacing bathroom sink

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Old 08-18-14, 09:30 AM
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Replacing bathroom sink

Hello All,

I'm in need of some advice, I have done quite a bit of DIY projects and I'm at the end of my bathroom remodel. I'm attaching two photos, one with arrows (red for side drain crack)(green for leaking past the gasket.) The photo was prior to replacing w/ a new drain and faucet.

I'm scratching my head as I need to replace the sink. How can I identify if this sink is an undermount or drop-in w/ a lip and just installed through the bottom?

Also, how do you measure a replacement? This is an older bathroom from the 70's so things are installed differently lol. (example, toilet 10" rough-in)

TIA!


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Old 08-18-14, 03:55 PM
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This is a tough one.
The sink is cast iron and heavy. It normally sits on 3/4" wood slats or 3/4" plywood that was nailed down to the cabinet tops. Tile was then laid over that with a mortar bed. Although you can't see it, this tile with bed may be 1" or more in depth.
Normally a sink like this requires the tile around it to be chipped out, sink replaced, and tile replaced. You may want to consider a new counter top.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 05:33 PM
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You can by-pass the removal and replacement of the cast iron sink by considering re-glazing the existing sink. You can even have the tile re-glazed to white at the same time. I have done dozens of remodels where we have taken blue or green tubs and re-glazed them to white. Have a pro do the re-glazing, those DIY kits are iffy at best. Make sure the re-glazer is going to acid etch and prime before re-glazing. That procedure is the closest to a factory new finish you are going to get. If they don't do all steps, pass them by, the spray won't last.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 06:43 PM
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I was going to recommend that also. I wanted others to weigh in.
Re-glazing is an option. I haven't heard to much good about it, but it will improve the appearance and buy you time if you ever do want to replace everything.
 
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Old 08-19-14, 06:04 AM
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Thank you all for the replies and advice. A few weeks ago before I started the remodel I saw a kit (dun..dun..dun.) at HD and decided to give it a try. I did all the steps it said to do, along with scrubbing the chemicals and wait times. The paint/glaze has been sitting for 3 weeks and hasn't seem to 'set' or harden. To the point of pushing down and finger prints stay imprinted.

Question is, can I still have a company come in and refinish the tiles in the bathroom (sink, counter, tile floor trim, and bath walls.) All of which have been previously done over the nasty green you mention? I'd love to keep the old sink in as it seems to have been built in '61

TIA
 
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Old 08-19-14, 07:02 AM
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I'm not sure. I would try to get a free estimate.
Czizzi may have a better answer. The old cast iron sinks are nice though if you can get it in good shape.
 
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Old 08-19-14, 07:15 AM
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Remove that sink... The wood rails underneath probably hold it up..

What is the dimension of the opening??? ( Lets see if there is even a sink to fit)
 
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Old 08-19-14, 07:50 AM
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The rough opening from tile to tile is 19" x 16-1/2" after I re-glaze it I had re-caulked back in. The vanity and sink pretty sound and no play in it whatsoever.


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Old 08-19-14, 09:56 AM
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19 side to side?.............
 
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Old 08-19-14, 10:00 AM
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Yes, this being measured from tile to tile left to right and 16-1/2" from front to back. ... Not the actual sides of the bowl. I have yet to find a sink that would possibly fit? As I wasn't sure if a drop in would sit about the tiled ridge or under and mounted beneath
 
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Old 08-19-14, 10:00 AM
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.........................................................................


Example, install a drop in....


http://www.faucetdirect.com/kohler-k...erflow/p163933

http://s1.img-b.com/faucetdirect.com...s/115707_4.pdf
 
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Old 08-19-14, 01:45 PM
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lawrosa, thank you for the information on the drop in. Would I just cut out the old sink? When looking from the bottom the tile overlaps a grated metal wire (assuming the base of the tile since the grout seeps through it.)

Second thing, I called the local Miracle Method and they show on record doing the refinishing of the sink and vanity in 2008. Doing the sink will cost $50 to strip my attempt to repair. and $150 to refinish the sink. Thoughts?
 
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Old 08-19-14, 01:54 PM
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Doing the sink will cost $50 to strip my attempt to repair. and $150 to refinish the sink. Thoughts?
Up to you..

My drop in is example and you need to make sure the one you get fits..

Also ..

Would I just cut out the old sink? When looking from the bottom the tile overlaps a grated metal wire (assuming the base of the tile since the grout seeps through it.)

The rough opening from tile to tile is 19" x 16-1/2" after I re-glaze it I had re-caulked back in.

So its only recaulked???? If so it will come out easy...

Again your choice..
they show on record doing the refinishing of the sink and vanity in 2008
So are you going to have to reglaze every 6 years???
 
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Old 08-19-14, 02:19 PM
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I apologize for not being clear about that. After I reglazed the sink I re-applied the caulk to seal the separation since it's from under the sink. The caulk doesn't hold the sink in place just to keep the water out.

I reglazed it because it looked very worn due to the previous owners. The bathroom was used by kids and abused quite a bit. Also stained bc of the rusting drain that was installed. Since then I've replaced it with a new one.

I'm going to look at it again tonight and consider the replacement route over 'covering up' and reglazing again.

Thank you for all the help and insight.
 
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Old 08-19-14, 03:49 PM
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The wood rails underneath probably hold it up..
You can't get this sink out from the bottom. See picture below. The wood braces are extra support. The sink outside edges (flange) sit on top of 3/4" plywood. So you will have 3 layers, plywood base, sink flange, and then tile on top of flange.

Attachment 36710

I've torn out many counters like this. Where they went wrong on this one was installing wide tiles around (and over) the sink flange. These need to be 3/4 round pieces so they can be carefully removed, sink lifted up, and 3/4 round replaced.
 
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Old 08-20-14, 06:07 AM
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thank you Handyone... I saw what you are saying it doesn't look like an easy removal. With the tile around the sink and vanity being refinished, the length of vanity, and complex removal.

Would you suggest refurbishing the existing sink in it's place and maybe buy a large gasket? See the image I attached. The green line (at the overflow hole in the drain tube) I'm assuming do the long drain on the sink it extends the assembly so the gasket doesn't seat fully it's half on the overage hole and other have on the threads of the new tube. Is this fix able? Other than that, all leaks will be fixed.

Or do you suggest, tearing out the tile and vanity and start fresh?

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Old 08-20-14, 07:35 AM
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http://www.doityourself.com/forum/to...pe-washer.html

See the post above on pop up assembly. Lawrosa has some excellent advice.
Even though your existing drain opening is tall, the pop up should fit.

Could you post a picture of the vanity top, showing complete top side to side?
I would recommend a pre-fab counter with under mount sink or an integrated sink.

There is a way to get this sink out...
You would need a diamond wheel grinder and cut the tile ~ 3/4" wider around all edges of the existing tile.
The problem is you would need to find a self rimming sink that would sit on this new opening.
So you would need a (Top Mount/Self Rimming) sink 21.5 x 19.
 
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