Hi,

I checked all faucet manufacturers websites , Delta, American Standard etc.

I dont know model number or brand. I looked at all the pictures and can't find it.

It's about 10 years old , so I think it's discontinued.

Still looks beautiful so I don't want to.buy new faucet.

I thought it was Delta so I sent them the picture and they said no. I bought it at home depot When I bought Delta shower faucet , head and spout kit.


Cold water leak in bathroom faucet. Handle closed but still leaks. So I closed cold water valve under sink and it still leaks. So I closed cold water main and it stopped.

Hot also leaks but it stops when I close valve under sink which isn't the main.

Both hot and old leak from spout.

See picture.

It's a 2 handle with 8 inch widespread.


Thanks

 

Here's another angle of same faucet.

Thanks again.

 

Welcome.

I know your goal is to fix faucet, but first I would address the angle stops under sink. Change out both hot and cold valves. You can get some help here in doing it.

Once you can shut off water supply from below, then you can start to disassemble faucet and get some new parts.

It would help if you posted picture of your existing valves.

 

I'd just shut off the water and take the whole stem with me and match it up.
Replace the whole stem assembly not just the parts.
Looks like a cheap Glaser Bay I had that leaked within a year.

 

If it is a Glacier Bay, I would install a new faucet. Something with ceramic disc technology.
You'll never have to replace any washers again.

 

Actually, I was a member here over a decade ago and you guys help me install this faucet and tub and toilet and kitchen sink and all the plumbing.

I have since forgot the old username and tried searching for them posts...dont think this forum goes back that far.

You guys were search a big help !

Anyway...I paid a few hu dred dollars for this faucet....its all brass with porcelain handle s. Never had a problem in 10 years.

I will post pic of valves when I get home.

Thanks so much for your help.

 

Here's a picture of valve under sink. It's just to shut off sink, not water main.

Pic is sideways..hose is going north to south and the brass is the drain coming from sink into wall.

 

Yes, those are the valves you need to change. They go bad when never used.

Looks like yours are probably 1/2" pipe threads going into wall.

Purchase 2 Each 1/2" pipe inlet x 3/8" compression outlet valves and 2 Each 1/2" pipe escutcheons.

To Change:
Shut off water. Cut off existing escutcheons with tin snips.
Try to get a small wrench onto pipe behind valve so you can hold it while removing old valves.
Clean old pipe, get off any old pipe dope or Teflon tape.
Place new escutcheons on pipes.
Put 3 or 4 turns of Teflon tape on threads and a little pipe dope.
Tighten new valves, they don't need to be over tight.

Once valves are replaced it will be easier to work on faucet.

 

Wow thanks Handyone for your help, really appreciate it.

So the old valve isn't sweated on or compression on, it's screwed on ?

I enclosed a better pic of valve.

The 1/2" pipe inlet that i need to buy are thread female ?

So I don't need a compression ring remover ?

Sorry, I'm a little confused.

So I will buy everything at home depot tomorrow that you listed.

Here's a pic of hot faucet taken apart. The hot leaks also but stops when valve is closed so it has to be something with faucet stem.

Here's a picture of stem.

PS: I will also change valve for hot water as you suggest, being I'm replacing the cold valve.


Thanks so much for your assistance !

 

Don't thank me yet

That wall valve, angle stop doesn't look like any I've seen before. It looks like it's soldered on.

Let's try to get another opinion here.

 

Oh boy..I hope it's not soldered on.

What about the stem ?

 

The stem.

Shut off main water supply and disconnect supply lines.
Take stem assembly to hardware store (I would go to a plumbing supply store or a plumber's storefront). They can give you new parts or a new stem.

The soldered valve: I've worked on many homes and never seen a soldered on angle stop. Maybe you can take a better picture from side, so as to see connection to house copper better. Maybe it's common in the east to solder the valves on. To me it doesn't make sense as they need changed frequently.

 

valve under sink is normal brasscraft... You dont need to change them unless they dont hold. And even then you can just use the main...

As far as the stem take a pic of the botton... may be seats and washers....

 

we solder everything here on east... Your considered a hack if you use compression or shark bites out here...

Taking the torch out of the truck you can charge more....LOL....

 

Thanks,but using the main shuts down all the cold water . I need to replace the angle stop because it doesn't stop the leak from spout.

Will take more pics in a minute.

Thanks

 

That surprises me. Solder is a more permanent connection but the valves don't hold up.

This is job security.

For you folks at home, turn angle stops fully on and off once in awhile. They fail because they're rarely used.

 

More pics coming..thanks so much.

 

To get back to your faucet for a sec, it looks very much like a Moen model 84000 or 4570. Delta had a similar looking model. My Moen was new in 1996.

 

This is as close as I can get and keeping it clear at same time. Pic is sideways.

Bottom of stem coming up next.

Thanks

PS: If this is soldered on how do I get it off ? Not much pipe will be left if I cut it off.

Could it be just the handle?

 

You will need a torch, solder, flux, and emery cloth.
Drain pipes completely, the drier, the better when applying solder.

Heat valve at connection to house pipes, while holding valve with pliers.
Once solder is melted, valve will release.

Have a cloth handy to also wipe off excess solder while pipe is still hot and solder is liquid.

When reinstalling. Clean off all old solder. Clean pipe with emery cloth. Test fit new valve.
Apply flux to pipe and inside of valve. Heat joint until flux starts to boil/bubble.
Apply solder at back of valve. Solder should flow easily, if it doesn't, joint needs more heat.
Have solder ready while heating. Bend end of solder into an L shape and be ready to apply immediately when joint is hot enough. A good joint should have no voids or pitting.

The key is: Clean, Flux, Hot Enough.

Also solder with valve in open position. Do not apply heat long enough to melt seals in valves.

This job needs to be done quickly and accurately.

 

This is turning into a nightmare.

Is there any chance of it being the knob itself ..is there a washer in the valve somewhere that might need replacing instead of having to do this big solder job ?

Here's the pic of bottom of stem. No washer or spring.

Also pic of hose that just screws onto bottom of stem.

Pics are sideways as you can see the water drop is dripping sideways. Don't know why it does that.

 

The hose (supply line) is not a problem, they should always be replaced. The stem, as I said, needs to be taken to a plumber and identify the washers or O-Rings needed. They should be readily available.
Changing the angle stops is a different story. Yes, soldering can be tough if you've never done it before. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, do as Lawrosa said and just shut off main valve to house while you're working.

As far as the angle stops go, they are not really designed to replace inside parts.

Obviously you haven't removed house angle stops.

Shut off main supply.
Remove stems and obtain parts or new stems.
Reassemble faucet.
Connect new supply lines from valves to faucet. Hand tighten plus 1/4 turn. Do not over tighten supply line fittings.

 

Hi Handyone,

No, I never installed or replaced angle stops before. They were fine when I installed the sink and faucet years ago.

I have soldered (10 years or so ago when walls were open ) ,but never angle stops and in such a limited space. Been a long time.

Yes, I will bring the stems to plumbing store . I believe they are 1/4 turn stems . What I don't understand is there are no washers or o rings on or in the stem. Just a big flat washer that goes under sink when tightening the nut to sink.

Once I get the valve off can I use a compression stop valve ?

 

Hi goldstar,

I looked up the models you mentioned and they don't match.

Appreciate your reply..thanks.

 

The stem come apart from the top here... I am not sure why you have the whole faucet apart...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]39355[/ATTACH]

But with that said. that faucet is older technology maybe, and I would replace it... But you need to get that stem or cartridge out....


Here is a nice inexpensive moen in brass that would have better cartridge in a simple design......

MOEN Chateau 8 in. Widespread 2-Handle Low-Arc Bathroom Faucet in Brass-4962P at The Home Depot

 

You can't see the washers/O-rings yet, you don't have the stem removed yet. You have the valve body. The stem is the part at top that handle connects to. Remove that and you will see the internal parts.

I don't want to suggest you use 5/8" compression valves. Lawrosa said soldered valves are common there and maybe there's a reason for that of which I'm unaware.

 

Heading to plumbing store now.

Ok, I get it..the top/stem has to be removed and that's where o-rings or washer is located.

Going to remove it again (had to put it back because hose was leaking and didn't reach sink after I removed it. When connected at least it leaks into sink.

Thanks again

 

Hi lawrosa,

I didn't know all I had to do was remove the top part of stem so I took entire stem out..what a pain that was.

Hopefully it can be fixed.

My entire shower is matching brass and them plastic handles on that Moen really doesn't look good.I do appreciate you taking the time to suggest it tho.

If I have to buy a new faucet my budget is $200 which I really can't afford ,but sometimes we have do what we have to do.

Off to plumbing store..thanks

 

Looks good to me... I chose quality and functionality
over looks. Its in the budget and its a moen.

I have been in the industry 30+ years and installed every faucet known to man. I will only install moen and use in my own home...



Of course you can but an $80 glacier bay, Pegasus, or elements of design but your be sorry you did..

Hopefully once you pull the cart and take a pic we can identify it...

Trouble is brass when out with the horse and buggy. Add to the fact you have an 8" widespread makes choices very limited....

 

Went to 3 plumbing supply stores and they don't have these. They said it doesn't even come apart because it's all one piece. That's why I Couldn't
Figure out where the hell this thing came apart to change washer or o ring.

So pissed...it's pouring rain and parking is horrible here.

Maybe I'll just get a one handle and plug up the 2 side holes
with some metal caps. Gives me more room for soap and stuff.

Off to home depot for supplies to fix stop valve.

Thanks

 

I would get a wide spread with quick connects. Like Lawrosa pointed out.
It will save you a lot of heartache.

 

Are quick connects like shark bite ?

Thanks

 

No, The quick connects I referred to are part of the faucet itself, not part of house plumbing.

The quick connect fitting is like a yoke that connects the wide spread valves to the spout.

 

Yes but you still need to unsolder that valve as you do not have a lot of pipe sticking out...

And you need to wipe the joint very good...

 

Ok just got (was posting from cell at HD) home.

I bought all the supplies to remove angle valve and install new ones. I bought the brasscraft
1/4 turn 1/2" inlet 3/8" outlet.

While in home depot I showed the stem to 2 guys who looked like plumbers in the plumbing section. They said it can be removed,but I was better off just replacing the faucet. They said it would be hard to get it off and might strip the nut being it was sealed very tight.

Very confusing..plumbing stores said no taking it apart and guys in home depot said yes ,but not worth it.

I know that nickel and bronze is the new thing but it won't work in my bathroom.

This is what I have in my shower plus I have 2 jet sprays which also has a brass trim. It has temp control which is nice. It would clash with anything else being there's so much brass.

So now I have to find something in brass with quick connects . Having cup of tea before I tackle this angle valve...not looking forward to it .

 

Quick connects for faucet not the angle valve ..correct ?

I thought quick connect were the hose that connects to faucet ..yes ?

Cause I already bought angle stops that are to be sweated .

 

They are all quick connects today AFAIK..

Hmmm, as a plumber thats the same advice I gave you.....

If you really dont like the moen I linked to then get the glacier bay , that IMO is junk..

If the faucet fails in 5 yrs replace it with another cheap brand..

88 bucks... here you go....

Glacier Bay Builders 8 in. Widespread 2-Handle Bathroom Faucet with Drain in Brass-FW0B4600PBV at The Home Depot

 

I think this moen faucet is very pretty looking... Maybe its just me...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]39377[/ATTACH]

 

It's just you Mike....lol.

Satin nickle maybe, not a fan of polished brass/gold, and I also dislike the plastic crystal handles. Prob the only option on a wide spread?

 

Ok...Going to have to spend a few dollars more and decided to go with single hole . I'll just place 2 metal ring covers on the holes not being used.

Going to buy one of these..leaning towards the Delta model over the moen on looks only. Besides ,the champagne bronze actually looks better than the moen polished brass .

What say you regarding quality..thanks.

Both have good reviews .

MOEN Kingsley Single Hole 1-Handle Bathroom Faucet in Polished Brass with Drain Assembly-6102P at The Home Depot

Delta 598LF-MPU Cassidy Single Hole Bathroom Faucet with Channel Spout - Includes Drain Assembly - FaucetDirect.com


Going to wait till early morning to tackle stop valve..if anything goes wrong there are no stores open now ,except HD tomorrow.