Need to remove shower studs liquid nailed to floor

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Old 03-30-15, 06:28 AM
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Need to remove shower studs liquid nailed to floor

Hello everyone,

Im new to the DIY forum and while somewhat mechanically inclined on vehicles, this hope repair is a bit of a learning curve.

We have a shower that was redone few years back and the tile work was not only atrocious, but we have some water damage to studs and backboards.

I just tore everything out, however the studs framing the entrance to the shower appear to be liquid nailed to concrete floor. Is there an tip or trick to getting them out easier?

I have hammered it was a medium size sledge hammer but the whole shower area shakes, so before i do any damage I thought I would ask here.

Also, there are 3 2X4's glued together that would form the step to step into the shower that need to be removed.

Thanks in advance for any help with this. Have a great day.

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Old 03-30-15, 07:00 AM
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Start by prying up the 2x4 on top. It's possible there is an anchor bolt or nails underneath that you can't see. Unless it has a bolt that you can remove the nut then you'll just have to get under the bottom plate with a pry bar and break it loose.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 07:01 AM
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A sawzall should cut through all of it.
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Old 03-30-15, 09:40 AM
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Cut it into smaller pieces either into 2 or 3 pieces and work on the smaller units. I will guess that it is anchored either into the concrete, or toe-nailed into the framework at the edges.

I think you are seeing what happens when grout is used in transitions from horizontal to vertical instead of a flexible caulking. Same goes for the inside corners of the walls.

Was drywall used instead of cement board as well?
 
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Old 03-30-15, 09:53 AM
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Regular greenboard i think was used. had little white bb type things all in middle with some other material. Boards I have now are hardee concrete boards.

I have a skilsaw but need to get a concrete blade for it.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 11:32 AM
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Concrete backer boards used on walls are usually 1/2" thick. 1/4" is used for flooring applications. I have found the 1/2" hardie difficult to work with as far as cutting and such. May be easier to use either Durock or Permabase, which ever is available in your area.

Here is some reading to get you on the correct path for your rebuild of a custom shower with preslope. How to Create a Shower Floor – Part 1 It is a 5 part series so read all of the steps, it will bet you close.

Add 2x10 blocking between all the studs along the bottom.
Add that you install the concrete backer over your vapor barrier before you do your final deck mud install.
Add a preformed curb and also install before you final deck mud.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 01:40 PM
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question on my hardee board...should I change out the 1/4" for 1/2"?

The reps at lowes said 1/4" would be fine since its a concrete waterproof board.

He also said I didnt need the wire mesh to go over the shower pan rubber liner. ??
 
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Old 03-30-15, 04:05 PM
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Please stop asking question of a stock clerk at a store, there are lots of professionals here.

From the James Hardie Brochure:

HardieBacker500 and HardieBacker 1/4"

Are easy to install
Are available in 3'x5' and 4'x8' sheets
HardieBacker 1/4" (0.25") is mainly used for floors and countertops
Has the EZ Grid fastener pattern for simple installation
HardieBacker500 (0.42") is used for walls and floors
.42 size matches up with tapered edge of a drywall sheet


1/4" has too much flex in it for an active wall such as a shower. Backsplash in a kitchen maybe, as a countertop directly over plywood, yes, but not as a wall.

Re-read the link I sent, the wire lath goes on the floor before the first mud bed is installed. THen the pan liner and the second mud bed goes over the liner without lath. You can use lath to build your base for your curb by bending it over the curb, but I suggested you go to a tile store and purchase a pre-fabricated one. The curb is one of the most challenging aspects of building a shower floor.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 06:20 AM
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Thank you very much for the info. Back to studying the links and will post back as progress or roadblocks arise.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 01:52 PM
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Ok few questions regarding the shower pan from the link tutorial.

1 - I have a concrete floor, so do I still need to frame with grey bricks?

2 - If adding the bricks, do I put the plastic and wire lathe under the bricks or on the inside of bricks? Is this wire lathe also called stucko netting?

Hard to tell from the concrete pic "A properly prepared pre-slope" if bricks where used. I dont think a pre slope would cover entire side of brick, right?

3 - What do you typically use for the ceiling? would a sheet of durock or permabase work? I need to put the ceiling back up because the insulation keeps falling into shower area.

Thanks again for the link and help.
 
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