Shower fixtures not fitting correctly after redoing tile. Please help!

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Old 04-08-15, 09:53 AM
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Shower fixtures not fitting correctly after redoing tile. Please help!

I recently tore out my old tile surround in my shower and put new tile in. When I tore out the tile, I went all the way to the boards in the walls. I replaced half inch cement board with quarter inch cement board. I did this so the tile wouldn't stick out so far. After putting the tile on I was left with a problem. The universal fixtures that I bought won't fit correctly. From the picture I posted, here are the problems I am having:

(sorry for not knowing the exact terms)

1. The area where the water comes out on the bottom, that pipe doesn't fit the new fixture. I am thinking I will need some kind of 4 inch extension or something, but I don't know if that's available? And where would I get it?

2. Above the water pipe, the place where you control the hot/cold water. This is the most problematic. The middle part that sticks out, sticks out too far. I don't know if there is a way to remedy this or do I just have to get a different fixture altoghether? I feel like it should be about half the size it is (the thing sticking out).

I am trying to match all the other fixtures and I am just really stumped on what to do now. The inside part is a valve is a moen standard, so I don't know if that lowers my options. I really need help with this because I am stuck. I also have the exact same problem in my other bathroom, so any help at all would be awesome!

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Old 04-08-15, 10:59 AM
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1. The bottom pipe for your tub spout needs to be the proper length for your spout. Usually I cut that to length after the tile work is done. Is that a steel pipe protruding through the hole? If so you should be able to unscrew it and install a longer pipe nipple. Steel ones are available from home centers in 1" increments and if that doesn't work you can solder male threaded fittings on the end of copper pipe to make it the exact length needed.

2. The decorative center part made of thin metal that slides over the valve stem can be slid in and out. If it can't go in fare enough try pulling it out and cutting some off the back side.

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So, do you have a Moen valve with a Price Pfister escutcheon?
 
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Old 04-08-15, 12:04 PM
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#1, never should have used 1/4" on a wall, one bump up against it and it's going to flex and crack the grout.
 
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Old 04-08-15, 12:14 PM
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One of my pet peeves about moen is that the shank on the center handle sticks out too far, so what I see is normal and par for the course.

Is the tub spout threaded on the inside and attached to a drop el that is fastened to a mounting block?

Agree with Joe, 1/4" hardie is mainly used for flooring and countertop applications where it is fastened to a contiguous plywood/OSB surface. 1/2" hardie is designed for walls. Please do not attempt to mount a handicap assist bar of any type unless both ends of the bar a solidly attached to a framing member.
 
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Old 04-08-15, 01:39 PM
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Ooops

Sorry guys, I did use 1/2 inch cement board. I got mixed up with the numbers. What was previously behind the tile was 1/2 of drywall type stuff, and on top of that they had put some kind of cement substance, kind of like they just wiped it on with a trowel.

Thank you guys for the help with the bottom part. I will go to Home Depot and see if I can find a piece that fits my spout.

I bought the Price Pfister set because it was the right color and it was universal, so it supposedly fit my moen standard valve. I am going to try and cut that thing and see what happens. Updates will follow
 
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Old 04-08-15, 04:24 PM
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Update

Well I figured out the handle thingy, just ended up using a different knob that actually fit.

However, I am stuck on the nipple. It won't come off. I tried to unscrew it with a pip wrench to no avail. So you are saying that I will need to get 4 or 5 attachments and attach them onto the exisiting piece? The attachments being one inch each? I am just trying to figure out if I understand this correctly.
 
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Old 04-08-15, 05:13 PM
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First, how does your new tub spout attach? Some simply slide over the pipe and are held with a set screw while most are screwed onto a threaded fitting. The slide on type are forgiving of pipe length but most all the others, the ones you must thread onto the pipe require the pipe nipple to be the right length. Darn near exactly the right length.

If you've tried removing the old pipe nipple and it won't budge don't go crazy. You don't want to break the elbow in the wall free or you'll be ripping things out again. You might need to screw a coupling on end then a nipple to get to the length you need. Having three threaded interfaces will allow you some slight adjustment for length. If that still doesn't work you may have to have a nipple made to length. Some home centers can cut and thread the pipe for you.

Another option would be to make up the nipple out of copper. It would allow you to DIY but mixing dissimilar metals is rarely a good idea as it can cause more rapid corrosion.
 
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