Toilet Was Leaking...Now Not Filling - Suggestions?

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Old 04-12-15, 06:30 AM
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Toilet Was Leaking...Now Not Filling - Suggestions?

I am definitely a novice so please bear with me, but I noticed 2 days ago that my toilet was leaking from the toilet connector as well (I believe) as the turn angle valve. I had turned the valve off, and it was still leaking a bit, but it was late and I came back the next day to find that it was no longer leaking but the bowl also wasn't refilling after flushing.

I purchased a 3/8" comp stainless steel connecter and a quarter turn angle valve with push fit application (5/8" inlet O.D., 1/2" nom, 3/8" inc O.D. outlet) and was looking to make repairs today. ( I just used https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9KLq9_MkcM as a guide)

When I saw that the tank wouldn't refill, I thought perhaps it was an issue with the fluidmaster as well, so I wanted to make sure I was on the right track before attempting something new.

I recently bought this house, but looking at the connection, it looks pretty corroded so not sure what to think. Am I right in assuming switching the valve and connector will fix it, or do I need to also look at the fluidmaster?

Thanks in advance!


 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:37 AM
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Can you verify exactly where the water was leaking? From where the grey tube goes into the valve? From the front of the valve behind the knob? From the back of the valve near the corrosion?

Looks like you have a compression fitting type valve. Your shark bite will not work without modifications. All that corrosion may keep the shark bite from sealing correctly.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:39 AM
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If the valve is shut off, how's the tank going to fill?
Main water lines going to have to be shut off to change that valve.
I would have also bought a new braided supply line to replace that cheap plastic line and a new Fluid Master fill valve.
Cost about $20.00 extra and take a whole 1/2 hour to do.
Very concerned with the condition of that badly corroded supply line!
Sure looks like it's about to burst.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:43 AM
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I bet that the fill valve inside the tank turned & was pushed against the side of the tank. That's what stopped it from filling. It has to be able to go up & down.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:43 AM
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Thanks for the quick responses. The valve is turned to on now, but no water is coming through the pipes and the leaking has stopped. It seemed that it was leaking from the top of the plastic connector at the base of the tank. I believe it was also leaking from behind the valve, but I wasn't able to investigate too closely before the water stopped moving completely.

I did buy a braided one, but the corrosion is definitely a concern, I have lived here for about 6 months and haven't had too many issues. Is it time to call the plumber?
 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:46 AM
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Hi Pulpo,

The fill valve inside the tank seems to have no obstruction, and easily moved up and down when I used my hand to manipulate it. The fact that the leaking has stopped and turning the valve hasn't brought water in makes me think it's an issue with the turn valve/connector, but I'm not certain.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 06:53 AM
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If the tank is not filling, then either your flapper (the part that the handle lifts when you flush) is stuck open and it is not letting the tank fill up... or your Fluidmaster is shot... either the valve or the float. You could operate the float manually and see if perhaps it's stuck.

There is surely nothing wrong with the shutoff, but the leak could be coming from either the toilet supply tube or the Fluidmaster gasket on bottom. Neither is likely to just start leaking out of the blue unless someone messed with them.

Your supply tube does look half cocked, so I would probably replace it with one of the braided stainless steel ones.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 07:28 AM
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Thanks XSleeper. Okay, so I have a new question: If it is just the fluidmaster that's not working, would turning the valve on and off audibly clue me in to if water is flowing through it? What I mean is that if it's the Fluidmaster that is the issue, is it possible that I can't hear water moving through the pipes when I change the valve from off to on because there was water pressure already there from prior and that I won't know that the water flow has resumed?
 
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Old 04-12-15, 07:46 AM
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Sorry to bump this, I just unscrewed the top of the connector and water was leaking out from the bottom of the tank, but when it's tight nothing leaked out. It was 100% leaking when there was more water in the tank, not sure why it's stopped leaking there now.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 08:43 AM
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There usually is a little residual water in the fill valve that leaks out when you change hoses. If the tank is 100% empty, then it is just a little residual water. It was leaking before because the connector was crooked going into the brass male nipple. It should have been square to the threaded part. You should be able to replace the supply line and retest everything.

If you remove the old supply line and water leaks from the valve and you can not shut it off, you will have to close the main line coming into the house until after you change the supply line.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 08:56 AM
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When the tank is full the water pressure of 10" of water will make connections leak worse than when the tank is almost empty and there is only 1" of water in the tank.

When the shutoff is turned on, you are surely getting water to the fluid master. To check this, just turn the shutoff off, disconnect the hose from the tank, put the hose in a pan and slowly turn the water on.

Reconnect it and as Czizzi said, make sure the hose is vertical when you screw it together so that the hose isn't half cocked like it was.

If you turn the shutoff open and there is still no water entering the tank after you flush it, then the valve in the fluidmaster is shot and you need to replace it. Its not an expensive or hard to replace part.
 
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Old 04-12-15, 01:10 PM
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Just an update for you all:

The toilet is now working. I had to replace the Fluidmaster and the toilet connector. I left the shut off valve for now and it's not leaking. I think the corrosion is mostly from water leaking on it.

The plastic connector hose was almost impossible to unscrew. We tried liquid wrench, let it sit, and then used a basin wrench while holding it still with an adjustable wrench but it wouldn't budge. Eventually I took a PVC cutter and cut the cap off and it was a pretty simple install afterwards.

Turning off the main water vain was also a pain, and I had to buy a water main key to help me turn the water back on after using a wrench/screwdriver combo to turn it off.

All in all, I ran into quite a few roadblocks, but I'm glad I didn't have to call the plumber and things are working fine for now. I appreciate everyone's assistance and hope I can return the favor in the future!
 
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Old 04-12-15, 01:18 PM
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Nice job, glad you got it going.
 
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