Still working on this toilet


Old 08-18-15, 12:11 AM
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Still working on this toilet

So after replacing bolts and tank-to-bowl gasket, the fill valve, and the flapper, the toilet is filling for a few seconds every 5 minutes. Tried the food dye test again; it ended up in the bowl. Like I said in my other thread, the overflow pipe is loose. So is it the flush valve? Is there a definitive way to know? If I'm going to continue DIY-ing this, I need to know what I'm looking for.

Can I just replace the flush valve without removing the tank? Or is there a pipe that goes through the tank to the bowl that needs replacing?

Also, this is an older toilet (don't want to get a new one at this time, thanks). Would an old ballcock and float ball assembly work better with it than the newer all-in-one fill valves? Because this Fluidmaster 400A is loud. Aquaria on my other thread said that can be the inner workings of the part are going, but this is a brand-new part.

Thanks, as always! This repair has turned into a saga...
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Old 08-18-15, 03:01 AM
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If the overflow tube is loose, then the water could be slipping past the lower gasket. It needs to be tightened from under the tank base. The same thing for the fill valve, but it is accessible without removing the tank. An older setup won't work as well as the Fluidmaster. Did you purge the valve once you had it installed? Often crud can become lodged in the valve and has no way to escape. With the water off at the stop valve, remove the cap from the Fluidmaster, turn the arm 1/8 turn CCW and lift from the valve. Hold your hand or a cup over the valve and lightly turn the water on via the stop valve. It will purge. Then replace the arm and cap.
Old 08-18-15, 03:56 AM
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Is the overflow tube plastic, from Home Depot? Try to find a tube made of brass.
Old 08-18-15, 04:16 AM
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The "valve seat" that is covered by the flapper could have biodegraded (if plastic) or rusted (if metal) ending up with a crack underneath if not a rough top rim. This means you would need to replace that part which usually means disassembling the tank from the bowl.
Old 08-18-15, 04:22 AM
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If no overflowing is going on, fix the dye in the bowl leak before touching the fill valve or float again.
Old 08-18-15, 06:16 PM
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Hi, The Fluidmaster comes with a clip that hooks to the top of the overflow in the tank Put it on and hook the little hose from the valve to the clip. You want the water to enter the overflow above the pipe not inside the pipe. If inside the pipe it will cause siphoning and cause the problem you are having.
Old 08-24-15, 12:09 AM
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Does this mean anything? When the toilet does its four-second blast of refilling the tank a bit, if I look in the bowl, it's like that blast is going directly into the bowl, immediately. Which doesn't make sense to me, because with the tank lid off, I see the water level go up when it refills the tank a bit every five minutes for approximately four seconds. What in the world?
Old 08-24-15, 02:23 AM
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A portion of the incoming (refill) water goes to the hose attached to the overflow tube and that dumps directly to the bowl to refill the trap. If your tank fills in four seconds then you must have very high water pressure in your home.

Edited to add: If you get an initial blast of high pressure, into the toilet tank or from any other faucet, it usually means that you have high water pressure at the street and you have a pressure reducing valve (PRV) located somewhere in the piping from the meter to the house. Most often this PRV is located inside and very near to where the water service piping enters the house. It will look similar to this:
(Image courtesy of

The initial burst of high pressure water means the PRV is leaking through and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Since rebuild kits are often about 75% of the cost of a complete new valve AND there is no guarantee that a kit will fix it, most of the time the entire PRV is replaced.
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