caulk or grout?

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Old 09-08-15, 07:22 AM
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caulk or grout?

I installed a commode and the floor is slightly off so I had to shim the front corner with slivers of PVC. About an 1/8" Is it better to grout the commode to the tile or is caulking fine? It's sanded grout if that makes a difference.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 03:08 PM
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I'd go for caulking. When I was in Florida, I had one of those rocking toilets. I installed some shims & caulked around it. IIRC, I was told not to use silicone.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 03:18 PM
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The rule of thumb I use is: if there's a change of direction or two dissimilar materials (like a tile accent strip above a solid surface backsplash) use caulk. You can get caulk color matched to almost any grout these days, and can even get sanded caulk so the texture matches when using sanded grout.

So, use caulk between tile and toilet bowl. And I'd use caulk with a mold/mildew inhibitor.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 03:24 PM
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I've seen and done it both ways. The main function of caulking is to hold everything in place and blend the toilet back into the floor. It will not support and prevent rocking other than hold your PVC shims in place. Grout will in fact support the whole base if used once hardened. It may crack from a plane change but it is not an issue per se as it is there for support, not waterproofing. I mainly do this with handicap toilets that I know are going to get extra abuse. Either case, leave a 2" un-caulked/un-grouted area at the back base of the toilet so if there is a leak, the water will come out and you will see it before damage occurs.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 03:35 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll caulk it - I can do that easier anyway
It feels good and solid and white caulk will look fine as both the tile and the bowl are white, the tile grout is grey.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 03:43 PM
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I usually have some white grout laying around so I would not use a colored grout. From a distance you could not tell grout from caulk. But my handicap client who is wheel chair bound sure can tell the difference. She uses the toilet and bars for leverage to get on and off.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 04:31 PM
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Code is to caulk with a water tight seal. ( grout or plaster is not water tight)

I never caulk unless an inspector asks/fails me.

I never shimmed a toilet in my life and set all my toilets in plaster.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 04:39 PM
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I never shimmed a toilet in my life and set all my toilets in plaster.
What a great idea, can you share any procedures?

I have never seen one set in plaster, but it intrigues me as it would result in a perfectly rock solid install. Similar to grout but different, please share....
 
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Old 09-08-15, 06:04 PM
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dry fit the toilet. Make sure square.

It may rock but thats where the "Plaster of Paris" comes in.

Draw a line around the bowl with pencil, then remove bowl.

Put your wax seal on and johnny bolts.

That line on the floor you made is were you are going to put the plaster.

How to mix plaster. Use old plaster tub and fill 1/3 with water. Then pour in plaser a little at a time. Mix and keep adding until its like a spackle consistency. Then spread on the line in a bead like fashion with your putty knife.

Build up the part of the bowl that had the bigger gap ( if it was rocking) with extra plaster. Because the plaster is kind of thick it can be built up.

Set toilet on wax seal. The base of the bowl will also set in the plaster bead you ran along the line.

Make sure toilet is square and kind of sit on the toilet to make sure the wax gets pressed. and tighten bolts.

Snug bolts evenly. But I tighten the side that makes the toilet level on a rocker first to keep the toilet on that preferred side of the wobble

Take putty knife edge and score the plaster around the bowl perimeter as soon as you set it and tighten the bolts. Dont dilly dally as it drys fast.. Thise allws you to remove the plaster around the bolw very easy. If you dont do this and it hardens you may be starting over.

Dont touch until the plaster dries. 30 min or or possibly less. Snug the bolts here and there as the plaster is drying. The wax gets softer and you will be able to snug them more. Not too tight. Dont break the bowl.

Then do all the tank fitting as your waiting. Buy the time your done putting tank and water connection plaster should be dry.

After plaster is dry just use the putty knife to scrape the plaster from around the bowl. You have to of scored it. It will come off in one or two long pieces very easy.
 
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Old 09-08-15, 06:42 PM
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Additionally the only caulk I ever use, and its been 30 plus years, is phenoseal. ( For pliumbing)

Phenoseal Does It All 5.5oz. White Vinyl Adhesive Caulk-00100 - The Home Depot
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 09-09-15 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 09-08-15, 07:17 PM
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Thanks Mike for the tips. Have you found any issues if you have to remove and reset a toilet that has been set in plaster of paris? Is if overly sticky? tough to get off the toilet base? Stuck to the floor?

Appreciate your time. Z
 
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Old 09-08-15, 08:59 PM
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Thanks Mike for the tips. Have you found any issues if you have to remove and reset a toilet that has been set in plaster of paris? Is if overly sticky? tough to get off the toilet base? Stuck to the floor?

Appreciate your time. Z
Nope. Comes right up. It dont really stick to the porcelain or tile floor. A putty knife takes it right up and off the rim of toilet base.
 
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Old 09-09-15, 04:47 AM
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I don't have any white grout but I do have Durabond, I could use it in place of grout or would that be a bad idea?
 
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Old 09-09-15, 06:24 AM
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I've never heard of setting in plaster but I have seen mortar used. Seems to me the plaster would look better (white) and dry faster. Any advantage to mortar over the others (special circumstances, etc)?
 
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Old 09-09-15, 07:18 AM
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I would think durabond would be hard to keep clean, on walls, it needs a finish coat on it. I would think that it would dirty the first time you wiped a finger across it (sorry for the visual in a bathroom)
 
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Old 09-09-15, 12:05 PM
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I think I might mix up a little durabond and shove into the area with a gap and then caulk over it and the rest although as long as the shims don't move I don't guess there will be any issues. When I first set the commode I noticed the gap and the front would set fine if I went with a smaller gap in the rear but then the tank looked crooked along the top of the wainscotting. Not sure why there seems to be more gap on the front corner than there was on the opposing rear corner.
 
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