Toilet not sitting level

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  #1  
Old 10-07-15, 01:42 AM
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Toilet not sitting level

I just installed toilet with new wax ring. I bolted it down and flushed multiple times with no leaks. The toilet has about a 1/8th inch gap between toilet and floor in the front right side. This gap is on front right and extends about 1/3rd distance toward back. Should I slip a couple toilet shims under front and caulk around? Please help. Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 10-07-15, 03:25 AM
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Shims will work but I'd avoid wood shims and use plastic or something non porous. Some use grout to make up the difference.
 
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Old 10-07-15, 03:48 AM
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  #4  
Old 10-07-15, 04:37 AM
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Well i will be grouting here in a couple days. Do people just mix up grout and wedge it under gap and let it dry and harden? I probable will at least put a shim under that front right...maybe a little grout will help keep the toilet in place too?

I see the plaster idea, which seems kinda similar. I really would rather not lift toilet back up.
 
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Old 10-07-15, 05:05 AM
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Some grout and some use caulk. I recently installed a new commode over new tile and the floor wasn't as level as I thought it was. I shimmed and caulked mine. I was advised to leave the back open in case the wax seal ever fails you'll know long before it rots the floor.
 
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Old 10-07-15, 02:21 PM
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If the seal breaks will a lot of water leak or just a little? I've got anxiety about the wax seal!
 
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Old 10-07-15, 02:27 PM
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A bad wax seal usually starts out with a slow leak, I've never seen a major leak with one. You are apt to notice it being damp on the backside of the commode and would know to make a repair whereas if the moisture is trapped under the commode [sealed in] the grout and plywood will try to absorb it and you might not notice until some real damage is done.
 
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Old 10-07-15, 02:30 PM
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Do u think it will be ok if I lightly wedge shims in there without t pulling toilet....I might squeeze plaster of paris in b shims between 2 shims then the front half caulk
 
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Old 10-07-15, 02:33 PM
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I shimmed and caulked my commode that I installed last month and haven't given it a second thought.
 
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Old 10-07-15, 06:39 PM
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I would suggest pulling the toilet, removing the remains of the wax ring, and then test fitting the toilet without a wax ring to find out why it is not sitting level.

The bottom of the toilet should not be touching the drain pipe flange, otherwise the toilet could crack when it is sat upon.

Set up shims so the toilet is level and does not touch the flange. Then with the shims already in place, put a new wax ring in place and re-set the toilet.
 
  #11  
Old 10-07-15, 09:15 PM
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The toilet is level, but the floor isn't quite level. There is a seam in subfloor that doesn't quite meet up flush and that is what caused the toilet to not be level. I pushed one plastic shim under the front lip and it fit about 2/3 the way under. I'd say it's about an eighth inch off floor.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 03:57 AM
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On my half bath there is a floor joist that made for a high spot in front of the commode. I thought between adding a layer of plywood over it and mudding in the cement board I had gotten rid of it. For whatever reason the gap under the commode was less if I left the gap in the back but I didn't like how the tank lid lined up with the top of the wainscotting. My gap at the front of the commode was about an 1/8". I cut several PVC shims then made sure it was level and secure before caulking. That was a month or so ago and there has been no issues so far ...... and don't expect any.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 05:35 AM
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Man I am stressing out on this one. As it sits now the toilet has that 1/8th gap at the front right hand side tapering off to the left and right. I am thinking of wedging 3 plastic shims under until right about snug then marking them and pulling them back out, cutting them and then wedging them in the whole way. then possible forcing come plaster of paris in underneath to fill the gaps between shims. then running a nice bead of caulk around the front of toilet. As of right now with no shims I can sit on the toilet and not see any rocking, but if I put my full 200lbs on the very front lip there is slight movement. that wont be enough to break the seal yet right? I have only pressed down on it full weight one time to see if it rocked and it just barely moved.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 05:38 AM
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I am going to roll a paper towel up and slide it up under gap toward flange.. then flush 8 or so times and pull paper towel out and see if there is any water. I spent a lot of time on this remodel and I don't want all my work to go down the drain :/ Thanks everyone
 
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Old 10-08-15, 06:04 AM
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The slight movement might have broken the seal although we cannot be sure yet.

Testing for rocking needs to be done before you do final assembly with the wax ring.

Once you are sure that you have the toilet screwed down tight, fill in the grout or plaster of paris to provide solid support and let that dry before putting your weight on it and now it should not move.

A very slight leak will not cause problems with normal toilet operation but if the drain underneath should clog resulting in overfilling of the bowl then considerable water can seep out onto the subfloor.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 11:15 PM
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A very light leak will not cuase problems with toilet? I would think that this would be a big problem for the subfloor though? I think I will wedge a shim under it until my weekend and then pull it up and double check nothing else is causing the front edge to be unlevel. As of right now it does not rock, I really would have to put some pressure on it to see it move. Tell me if this plan sounds alright?

Mark the floor with masking tape around the unlevel edge. Pull the toilet. Mix plaster of paris and cake it on in the area where the floor wasn't flush with toilet. replace the seal and lay toilet back down, causing the plaster to ooze out from the toilet base. Should I wedge a shim or 2 in the plaster? Then tighten down the floor bolts until toilet is snug and not moving. Let it dry and then sit on it and see if it moves?

I also have one more question. No damage is done to the pipes if I leave the toilet removed and flange exposed for a week or so right, with a rag tucked into it to? Thanks!
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-15, 11:18 PM
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I did have a chance to roll up the paper and slide it up next to flange from under the toilet earlier and flush 8 times. I pulled the paper out after this and there was no sign of water. Should I roll a very thin roll of plumbers putty and adhere it to the inside lip of toilet base before install to help prevent movement? This is what was there when I pulled the toilet up?
 
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Old 10-09-15, 03:14 AM
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I stated to you to read my sticky in post #3..

Here is is again...

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/to...let-again.html
 
  #19  
Old 10-09-15, 04:28 AM
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I did read your post and it is very informative. I just don't feel comfortable sealing the entire bottom of the toilet with the stuff. I was thinking of just doing the front half of the toilet since that is where the problem is. (front right)...I may end up following your post I just want to hear everyones input because I worked hard on this remodel and putting the toilet down is the last step for me. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 10-09-15, 09:59 AM
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I just don't feel comfortable sealing the entire bottom of the toilet with the stuff.
Why?

Plumbing code anyway is bottom of toilet must be sealed


IPC 405.5 Water-tight joints.

Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed.


In NJ code also states with water proof product...

( Plaster is not waterproof though and when inspectors fail me I run some phenoseal around it.. )
 
  #21  
Old 10-10-15, 12:18 AM
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I have been advised not to do this so that water can escape from under the toilet if the seal is broken?
 
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Old 10-10-15, 04:12 AM
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I have been advised not to do this so that water can escape from under the toilet if the seal is broken?
Well the funny thing is water does not typically escape from under the toilet when the seal breaks. In fact I rarely see it at all.

We advised you best we could here in this thread.

Im a plumber 30 plus years and know what works ...
 
  #23  
Old 10-10-15, 06:24 PM
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Place shims on a non-level floor in advance in addition to the plaster of paris if you put the latter in place before final assembly.

The shims are needed so the toilet will stop when it is all the way down. Should one corner be pushed down into wet plain plaster of paris too far, the wax seal will be broken when you pull the toilet back into the supposed level position.

After the plaster of paris hardens the toilet is not going to sink any lower.
 
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