In ProcessAdSlots.php line 39: Trying to access array offset on value of type null

Shower Faucet Leak *RectorSeal Question

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-17-15, 09:31 AM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Shower Faucet Leak *RectorSeal Question

Good afternoon,

I turned on my shower faucet this morning and later found water dripping into basement out of the wall. After disassembling the nozzle, I can see that the water is rapidly squirting out of the top 1/2" joint with teflon tape (picture below). House was built in 2001.

I'm going to fix it myself and rather than use teflon tape again, I'd like to use RectorSeal. My question is which version is correct for this application? I think No. 5 is most common but I'm wondering if T Plus 2 or Tru-Blu is better for the extra PTFE.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Name:  IMG_8418.jpg
Views: 507
Size:  24.7 KB
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-18-15, 01:58 AM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 35 Votes on 27 Posts
I've only used the #5 Rectorseal but I have also used several different brands of Teflon paste. Either should do a fine job for you. I rarely use just Teflon tape for anything but compressed air fittings these days. Teflon tape with the Rectorseal #5 is often used by professional pipefitters.
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-15, 03:46 PM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you, I appreciate the help. I'll give the #5.
 
  #4  
Old 06-09-16, 05:48 PM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry to dig up this old thread but I quickly ran into issues with this fix. The problem is that the faucet and upper pipe are fixed in the wall and the piece I'm working with in the middle is a brass nipple with two male ends. Unless I start cutting pipe (don't want to), I have no good way to screw the nipple in between these pieces because they're opposite. Basically, when I screw the nipple into the faucet, it's unscrewing from the top pipe.

I tried screwing the nipple all the way into the faucet, then connecting the top pipe, and unscrewing the nipple until both the faucet and top pipe had about half the threads of the nipple. No matter what combination of Teflon tape and rectorseal I use, this still leaks because I can never get the nipple tight enough on either end.

Any advice? I've heard of plumbers using "unions" but I know little about them or if I can fit something like that here. At this point, I'd be fine epoxying the darn thing as long as I knew it would be 100% waterproof.

I'm attaching another photo to better show the parts I'm working with.

Name:  image.jpg
Views: 192
Size:  42.9 KB
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-16, 06:42 PM
C
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3,138
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
If you are dead set against cutting the pipe, you might get lucky. I assume the top pipe goes to the showerhead? At the top of the riser there is usually a fitting called a drop elbow:

Attachment 67122

(Picture shows it upside down from what it would be). The nipple to the shower head often screws into this fitting. The fitting is usually screwed to wood blocking in the wall to provide a solid mount for the shower head. If you have, or can make, enough room around the nipple to the shower head, you may be able to unscrew the nipple and remove the screws holding the drop elbow to the blocking. Then you may be able to turn the whole riser pipe a couple of turns to tighten the lower fitting and then replace the screws and nipple.

If that doesn't work, your next best option is probably a sharkbite repair coupling. This is a special type of coupler than can slip up onto one piece of pipe and then slide back down to make a connection. To use it you would have to cut the pipe about 1.5 inches above the threaded adapter. You then tighten the threaded adapter onto the nipple making sure the both joints are tight. Then you spring the top part of the riser pipe out enough to slip on the special repair coupling. You push it up enough so you can realign the cut ends of the pipe and then slide the coupling down until it connects to the bottom piece. This all depends on having enough room to work and that the riser pipe has room to move a little. It isn't going to be easy working through the access hole.

A third option would be to use a sweat type repair coupling. Steps are basically the same as for the sharkbite, but the coupling is soldered on. Because a sweat repair coupling is smaller than the sharkbite, it would be easier in close quarters, but requires soldering.

It might be possible to just solder the leaking connection, but I doubt you will be able to get it clean enough to take solder well.

Epoxy isn't going to cut it here, and a union would require cutting the pipe and sweating in the union, and if you're going to do that you might as well use one of the repair coupling approaches.

Good luck!
 
  #6  
Old 06-09-16, 06:50 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 35 Votes on 27 Posts
Carbide has given you good advice. If you want to use a detachable union this is what they look like.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]67126[/ATTACH]
(Image courtesy of Lowes.com)

I personally would rather use the union than the Sharkbite fitting. The repair coupling is a good idea if you can solder in the space safely.
 
Attached Images  
  #7  
Old 06-09-16, 07:29 PM
Handyone's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I don't see any way to fix this from the front without demoing the shower wall, unless you get very lucky and can release the drop ear elbow as CT said. Just hope that screws were used to secure the elbow instead of nails.

You are probably looking at repairing this from behind, rear wall needs opened up.
 
  #8  
Old 06-10-16, 06:07 AM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you very much Carbide! Great info, I appreciate the help. You're correct that the top pipe leads to the shower head; I'll check for the drop elbow tonight after work. If no luck there, I'll do my homework on the sharkbite fitting.

Thanks everyone else for the replies as well.
 
  #9  
Old 06-10-16, 07:39 AM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Carbide, I'll still be pursuing your ideas first but here's one more I'd like to throw out there: what if I buy 2 of these sharkbite fittings (link below), put one on the faucet, one on the top tube, and then connect them with a very short piece of PEX? I think the toughest part would be spreading the connections far enough apart to slide the PEX in place but I'm confident I can make that work by removing the brace that's currently holding the faucet to the stud.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002STLKP0

Think this would work? It would mean no cutting of any pipe, just screwing two sharkbite fittings in place and sliding the PEX in.
 
  #10  
Old 06-10-16, 08:22 AM
C
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3,138
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Maybe, but that's going to be really tough to fit in there, especially working through the access hole. It's easy to underestimate just how much clearance you need to get sharkbites in place.

I tend to agree with Brian that if detaching the drop elbow doesn't work, you are going to end up having to open the wall behind this.

Good luck!
 
  #11  
Old 01-12-17, 10:12 AM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 63
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi, just wanted to update this thread in case it's useful for anyone else in the future. I did end up putting two sharkbite fittings on with a very short piece of PEX in the middle. This solved the problem without me having to tear into the wall. This workaround did raise the height of the shower head by about 4" so I had to trip the sheetrock up some more but it solved the issue. Thanks again to everyone for the ideas and feedback.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: