Advice on replacing steel sink without disturbing tile.
#1
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Advice on replacing steel sink without disturbing tile.
I need to replace a steel sink. It looks new on top but the overflow channel underneath is rusted out and leaking. I was thinking I could just cut off the flange around perimeter, leave the tile in place and drop in a top mount sink.
My question is will a oscillating multi-tool work well for cutting the steel flange? It is around 1/8" thick. I was hoping to avoid using a grinder and cutting wheel due to the mess and not being able to cut into corners with out cutting tile.
Any advice or recommendations is appreciated. Which brand of multi-tool to get, which cutter to use, etc.
Thank you!!
My question is will a oscillating multi-tool work well for cutting the steel flange? It is around 1/8" thick. I was hoping to avoid using a grinder and cutting wheel due to the mess and not being able to cut into corners with out cutting tile.
Any advice or recommendations is appreciated. Which brand of multi-tool to get, which cutter to use, etc.
Thank you!!
Last edited by PJmax; 03-24-16 at 07:40 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
#2
No, a multi-tool will not work, unless you don't mind spending several years on it. Sounds like the impossible dream but a grinder and about 10 thin 1/16" cutting wheels will be your best bet. Aren't there any rim anchors under the countertop?
#3
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That close up picture is about useless to see what your issue is.
I have to agree no way is an ossilating saw going to be of any use.
The whole sink needs to be removed by cutting the joint between between the bottom of the sing and the counter top.
I have to agree no way is an ossilating saw going to be of any use.
The whole sink needs to be removed by cutting the joint between between the bottom of the sing and the counter top.
#4
Joe, the sink is sunken in and surrounded by bullnose tile. Don't think he's going to be able to just cut the caulk around it like you would if the sink was flush.
I think this is a pie in the sky idea... even if you suceed in getting the old sink out "carefully" there is no way in Hades that you will find another one to fix "exactly" in the old opening.
I think this is a pie in the sky idea... even if you suceed in getting the old sink out "carefully" there is no way in Hades that you will find another one to fix "exactly" in the old opening.
#5
It's pretty much impossible to cut out the underlayment this sink is sitting on from below, and drop the sink. No tool will fit.
So how to cut out the sink is not the issue yet. Can you find a self-rimming sink to cover the existing outside edges of the bullnose?
Post the dimensions of the outside edges of the bullnose, width and front to back.
So how to cut out the sink is not the issue yet. Can you find a self-rimming sink to cover the existing outside edges of the bullnose?
Post the dimensions of the outside edges of the bullnose, width and front to back.
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I have found a drop-in sink that will fit in the cutout and leave roughly 1/2' around the edge to set in a fat bead of silicone. Dimensions inside the bullnose are 19 1/4 wide x 16 3/4 deep;
#8
I'm still waiting for Xsleeper's question to be answered. Are there no under counter clips? Is that silicon bead the only way that sink is secured? If so then that silicone should be able to be removed without cutting.
#9
If it's only caulked in, a bottle jack might pop it up, but you would need to protect the base of the cabinet with some heavy blocking to spread the weight out.
#10
I've torn out many of this style sink and tile. There are no clips.
The sink undermount flange is sitting on top of the wood underlayment, a cut-out was made.
The vanity top is then tiled and the tile covers the flange and holds sink in place.
The only way to remove the sink is to cut out the bullnose tile all around and lift the sink up.
Cutting the edges of the sink with a grinder is better than cutting out the bullnose in this case. Leaving the bullnose intact gives a little more area for the new sink to sit on and backer for caulk.
The sink undermount flange is sitting on top of the wood underlayment, a cut-out was made.
The vanity top is then tiled and the tile covers the flange and holds sink in place.
The only way to remove the sink is to cut out the bullnose tile all around and lift the sink up.
Cutting the edges of the sink with a grinder is better than cutting out the bullnose in this case. Leaving the bullnose intact gives a little more area for the new sink to sit on and backer for caulk.
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Thanks so much for your input. Near as I can tell the outer dimensions of the sink are 21 x 18 1/4. I can see underneath that, as you said the flange of the sink sits on top of 1x rough top and the tile was set on top of it. So it was set in the mud base and tiled into place.
I was hopeful to avoid using a grinder and cutting wheel due to the mess. Having never owned or used and oscillating multi-tool I didn't know if it was suitable to the task although I've seen commercials where it glides through 1/4 skid plate with no problem. 8 )
It appears the flange of the sink extends slightly beyond the edge of the bullnose so I may have to also cut into the boundary tiles. I am hopeful to avoid this.
I was hopeful to avoid using a grinder and cutting wheel due to the mess. Having never owned or used and oscillating multi-tool I didn't know if it was suitable to the task although I've seen commercials where it glides through 1/4 skid plate with no problem. 8 )
It appears the flange of the sink extends slightly beyond the edge of the bullnose so I may have to also cut into the boundary tiles. I am hopeful to avoid this.
#14
An oscillating tool will not work, it must be an angle grinder to cut through the steel. Put up plastic, but some mess is unavoidable. Steel is not necessarily dusty.
So you have the right plan. Cut out the sink and leave the flange in place under the bullnose.
This will give you a sink cut out of 19-1/4 W x 16-3/4 D.
So you need a self-rimming sink, overall dimensions approximately 20-1/4 Wide x 17-3/4 Deep.
I will look around at some popular brands.
So you have the right plan. Cut out the sink and leave the flange in place under the bullnose.
This will give you a sink cut out of 19-1/4 W x 16-3/4 D.
So you need a self-rimming sink, overall dimensions approximately 20-1/4 Wide x 17-3/4 Deep.
I will look around at some popular brands.
#16
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Can you remove the wood flange that the sink sits on from below? it sounds like you are describing the outer edge of the sink sitting on a recessed lip of wood with the bullnose tile on top of that. Instead of trying to cut it out, can you remove the lip and allow the sink to drop out below? You may need to reinforce the bullnose edge from below for stability.
#17
Unfortunately, you can't cut the substrate from below and drop the sink. You could get lucky and be able to cut out the sides of the wood with an oscillating tool, but there is no tool I know of that will fit inside the area at front and back of sink from below.
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Got 'er done!
After much procastination I moved ahead with my idea to cut the steel sink out rather than disrupt the tile counter-top. I made the long cuts as much possible with my old Milwaukee worm drive and carborundum blade, then finished up the corners with 4" grinder and cutting wheels which did get eaten up pretty quick.
Thanks for the help and encouragement.
It was cheaper and quicker that most alternatives and unless it was a real ugly top I'd do it again.
Thanks for the help and encouragement.
It was cheaper and quicker that most alternatives and unless it was a real ugly top I'd do it again.