Faucet P trap supposed to have movement? Slip washers concern.

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Old 06-14-16, 08:47 PM
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Faucet P trap supposed to have movement? Slip washers concern.

I replaced a bathroom faucet including the drain pipe that connects to the P trap.

I installed the compression washer aka slip joint washer in the correct orientation (the smaller side of the bevel faces down into the P trap and then the nut tightens it onto the P trap). The washer I'm talking about is seen here at the 11:35 mark
https://youtu.be/1rXEPSJ2I1k?t=694

The washer was from the old drain pipe I re-used it and it fit snugly over the new drain pipe, so I don't think I used the wrong size drain pipe.
I finished everything with the new faucet and then tested and it works fine but I noticed I can move the P trap up and down as if that washer isn't compressing and giving a good seal. The washer seems to be in perfect condition.

I don't understand these hard plastic washers. What makes sense to me is a rubber washer as seen here https://youtu.be/VEcVnd8-mCY?t=59 because it will compress and give a watertight seal.

With the water running, I pulled down in the P trap (because there's movement) and if I pull it down enough, water starts to bubble out. I imagine if the water gets clogged, it can drip out of this seal because it's not actually watertight. I checked the faucets in my house which have never gave me a problem and one is all metal piping and has no movement, but the other is the same thing and it moves up and down but never gave me a problem even though the drain has backed up many times.

I'm just wondering if this in normal, or should I just replace the hard plastic washers with a 30 cent rubber one??

If you're not a plumber or very familiar with this, just examine what I'm talking about by watching this again at this time
https://youtu.be/1rXEPSJ2I1k?t=689

The washer ring is hard plastic. The nut tightens down on it and gives an poor seal. It doesn't matter %99 of the time because water is flowing in a way that the washer will never touch water but if the water backs up, won't it just get though this hard plastic-to hard plastic seal made by the washer and nut?

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Old 06-15-16, 03:27 AM
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No it should not move without excessive force. Replace the slip joint washer with new one. Hand tighten, then just a bit more. It should be tight and the extension tube should not move. Make sure everything is perfectly plumb. I've used the plastic slip washer all the time and never had a problem. In fact I prefer them over the rubber because they will not rot or deteriorate.
 
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Old 06-15-16, 04:33 AM
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I agree with Norm. While I CAN move mine around slightly IF I really horse them around, under normal conditions they never move.
 
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Old 06-15-16, 06:20 AM
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I recommend you change the nylon washers to rubber/neoprene, they grip the pipe better.
You only need 2 washers, one at the wall and one at the pop up drain connection.

The wall trap adapter is an 1-1/2" beveled slip tube washer
Pop up is an 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" beveled slip tube washer
 
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Old 06-15-16, 08:34 PM
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I just got word that it's leaking slightly from the joint in question. I tightened the nut very good with a wrench. I'm confused though because the hard nylon washer most likely wasn't deteriorated or anything wrong with it that I re-used it. And what confuses me is if I installed the wrong size (too small) vertical pipe connected to the pop up drain, it should have been pretty noticeable that the nylon washer slipped over the new pipe with too much play in it but from what I remember it barely slipped over.

I will see what they have at home depot/ lowes. I found the rubber ones online but they were "out of stock" online. But nylon should be fine and maybe I missed something with the instillation. But it's very simple process but still I have almost no plumbing experience.

Worst case scenario, if the vertical pipe coming from the pop up drain is slightly smaller than it's supposed to be to tie into the P trap, can I get a reducing washer or fitting or would it be easier to just return the faucet and get the right size one?
 
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Old 06-16-16, 03:11 AM
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It won't be a different size. Standard sizing is 1 1 /4 for bathroom sinks and 1 1 /2 for kitchen sinks. Check you tail piece for any cracks. But the most important thing is it being plumb. Using a wrench is not necessary or recommended. Hand tight then just a bit more. Use a bit of TFE tape if need be to lubricate the threads. The plastic slip joint washers are fine. I'm betting the tail piece is not plumb. Use a torpedo level or a string with a weight on it and look if it's out of alignment.
 
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Old 06-23-16, 12:10 PM
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all the beveled/tapered washers for this type of joint I saw at home depot were indeed soft rubber/plastic, not the hard plastic washer that was there. ^ correct the standard pipe for the BATHROOM sink faucet is 1.25" and the P trap is 1.5" at this particular sink (but I guess it can be 1.25 or is standard to be 1.25 for most bathroom [ the larger the better if you ask me so there's less chance of clogs]). so I used a 50cent REDUCING washer which was 1.25 and 1.5" in the same washer. I can't find it for some reason but it basically looks like the green one here on the top left if you zoom in.
Everbilt 1.5 in. Plastic Slip Joint Nut with Washer-C2698C - The Home Depot

Also where the old washer was in the P trap was all gunked up and I didn't know to clean it when trying to re-use the old washer (couldn't see the gunk) but I cleaned it out and yes made sure it was plumb and in line, hand tightened it real snug and there's no leak.
 
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Old 06-23-16, 01:51 PM
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so I used a 50cent REDUCING washer which was 1.25 and 1.5" in the same washer
That's what you are supposed to do. In my area of California I have never seen an 1-1/4" trap in a home and probably never will.
 
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