Why the heck can't I make this replaced riser NOT LEAK

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Old 07-15-16, 12:02 PM
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Why the heck can't I make this replaced riser NOT LEAK

Let me start by saying I've replaced a LOT of risers and done other toilet repairs, I used to have 16 rent houses. But I must have gotten really stupid lately. About 3:00 I noticed a smallish puddle spreading from my toilet and saw it was leaking at the tank end of the riser. Shut off the valve and told my wife to use the other toilet until I could replace it.

Went to buy the new gaskets, top of the 3/8" tube riser and the ballcock to tank one since I'm in there and obviously they're the same age. The hardware didn't have the riser gasket so I bought the flexible (pre-made) riser and the ballcock gasket. Installed both and leaking at the tank, BUT ONLY WHEN PRESSURIZED.

I removed the riser and made sure to re-tighten the ballcock nut and reinstalled. Still dripping, not a tiny bit either. I did notice that the riser nut seemed to be snug up against the ballcock nut. My recollection was that ballcock gaskets were made of "squishy" material, kind of like the seal between tank and bowl so I returned to the hardware and he said, nope, that's the only one we've got but the nut shouldn't be that close, a look at my other toilet confirms a 1/8" gap between the two nuts.

He suggested trimming the gasket to make it thinner, but I pointed out that what he suggested would only remove the thin end of it and not make the ballcock fit in any further. But I tried it anyway, to no avail.

The odd thing is that a few years ago I had this happen and when I tried tightening the ballcock nut the threaded portion of it broke off (because plastic now, not copper!). In that instance the replacement ballcock, same gasket and riser that I had just installed before breaking the old one, worked like a charm.

At the time I thought maybe the plastic on the lower end of the ballcock had maybe had a small crack and it had caused the leak and the breakage. Now I'm not so sure.

I doubt that I'm the only person who's ever experienced this but the guy at the hardware store is stumped. If I have to I'll buy a new ballcock assembly but that seems odd.

Thanks in advance

Stewie G.
 
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Old 07-15-16, 01:25 PM
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Are you over tightening it? The flex connector should be finger tight plus 1/2 to 1 turn. To tight and it distorts the seal.
 
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Old 07-15-16, 03:00 PM
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Nope, I had already tried that. Like I said, I've done many of these but the last few years it hasn't worked.
 
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Old 07-15-16, 05:20 PM
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Hmmm, well the only other time I've had a leak with flex toilet connector was when it was being pulled sideways because of the length of it and location of the stop valve. I solved that by rotating the stop valve to point down and getting a longer flex connector so it would loop down and then straight up to the toilet.

Oh, and I always use the stainless flex hoses....have not had good luck with the plastic ones.
 
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Old 07-15-16, 06:16 PM
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I did notice that the riser nut seemed to be snug up against the ballcock nut.
so I returned to the hardware and he said, nope, that's the only one we've got but the nut shouldn't be that close
You and the guy at the store are right. There's no way you shouldn't be able to tighten the nut sufficiently without it hitting the ballcock. The hose only requires hand tight plus a quarter turn to prevent leaks, and it sounds like you can't do even that or it's way too tight, which causes leaks.

Post a picture of the fill valve in the tank and the bottom of the fill valve. You might just need a new Fluidmaster valve and you should have no problems.
 
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Old 07-16-16, 04:54 AM
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Thanks. Since the new valve solved it the other time this happened I had I would do that. Had lots of stuff to do last night but will do that this morning.
 
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Old 07-16-16, 11:24 AM
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Just to update and say thanks;

I purchased a new (adjustable height) ballcock assembly. Looking closely at it the threaded portion does not appear to be any longer than the original, the washer appears to be the same thickness, but it may be more compressible-I didn't remove it from the stem to verify this. I installed it, ran the riser connection into place and there was a gap of approximately 1/8" between the connector and the nut securing the ballcock to the tank.

It works like a charm, but it's puzzling to us why the old one didn't. I don't have time to worry about it though, just passing on thanks and information.

Stewie
 
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